CONTINUOUSWAVE

I recently bought a new trailer resulting in my classic 13-footer riding higher above the pavement, so high, that even with the outboard engine tilted down, the skeg now clears the pavement by 12-inches. Q1: Is towing with the engine trimmed down better [than with in the engine in some other trim po...

Correct, had fun replacing all four with new o-rings a couple of years ago .. not to mention a bit of transom/glass work from the previous owner.

Thanks for the [information0. I had a bit of stress of my head about leaving [the 1965 13-foot hull] in the water with no plug in the [drains]. I hope the foam age age greater than 50-years-old iss sufficiently "buoyant" to still keep [the boat] relatively dry. Also, I greatly appreciate t...

I plan to take my c.1965 13-footer with a Yamaha 25-HP engine with tiller-steering to the [Florida] Keys in the summer of 2022. I am concerned about rain at night--common there--while the boat is on a mooring. My 13-footer has no battery, so an electric automatic sump pump is not an option. [Implied...

It's my understanding only the through hull holes used the brass are the two transoms in the back. (at least I have two - early 60's 13.5'). It's key they are sealed correctly as even OE it was apparently a bit of a weak link from Boston factory. I thought about changing them to something more "...

Are you talking about the three holes in the anchor locker? Two holes to the sides up top and the one hole on the bottom? I used a piece of rubber tubing that would fit. I can't recall the size. I used epoxy to adheres the ends [of the rubber tubing to the hole], which seems to have worked fine. For...

Yes, overtime aluminum and SS is a bad combination, let alone with salt water mix, but alas, it's only going into wood and the reaction to the point of contact should be minimal if kept clean. Besides, I put 5200 on mine - that's what I am more worried about. But then again, as you indicated, I don'...

Yes, just a plate was installed to give the inside some strength. Having the motor mounts drilled and mounted through transom as I type. Bracket are usually used create a set-off off the transom and/or lift it for proper trim or long shaft. The same fellow use to do a bracket that would lift the top...

Just the one I posted above - but everything went in great. Having some work done on the boat and motor, including doing a through hull installation on the motor currently. I can post a couple of pics when I get it back.

Plate all installed ... very sweet work. Re-pitched my 9.8 Tohatsu to the 5 pitch they have and finally screams at 5850 RPMs at WOT. Next up: bolting up through the transom ...

The plate was $140 total, but worth it; and I should never have to worry about it again: no rot, no cracking. Nicely rolled for 0.25-inch thick piece of milled aluminum. [Kent Fabrications] were great. One week from contact to receipt of the transom mount. Now to the hardware store for four SS screw...

Yep, [the KENTFAB transom mounting plate is] supposedly in-route to me as I type.

Thanks all. Managed to find Kent Fabrications . They make a beautiful piece to step up the transom top for a long shaft, but on request they can do the inside 0.25-inch-thick aluminum plate with mill finish made to fit just the inside of the transom without the step up. I hope to avoid screw holes, ...

I've a 9.8 Tohatsu that weighs in at a whopping 85-lbs. The transom on the 13-foot classic is fine. That said, I'd prefer to have one barrier of insulation between the two screws on the motor and the transom. But, as you know, our transoms are not flat; hence something flexible needed. What do most ...

At present [my classic 13-foot Boston Whaler boat has] a Tohatsu 9.8-HP four-stroke-power-cycle short-shaft engine with a 8.5 x 7.5 propeller. I run a load of three or four adults. [The Tohatsu 9.8) is only [accelerating to] 5,000-RPM at WOT. I am looking for a bit more RPM and possibly [for the hul...

One last set of questions: I have the [bow] locker anchor in the bulk head up front. There are two holes apparently drilled through where the edges of the top--left and right--go through to drain, [and I am] assuming [these holes are] straight holes that I can simply epoxy and seal while . However, ...

Roger that - I'll pick up some fresh Marine-tex - should be plenty to cover the two inners and will set within the day easily.

Thanks. I think I'll put a smooth coat of 5200 around the inside and let it set first. Then put the tubes in with some additional sealant on the ends then. That should keep it nice and dry, even if there is failure. Don't suppose if you know 3" will be long enough to accommodate the o-rings and...

Will 3-inch tubes be correct for a 13-footer?

Does the O-ring only go on the straight side to be flared by the tool?

Would 3M4200 be better even though [the drain is] under the water?

Thanks, I've looked at that page frequently over the last couple of days. If the drain tubes were sound, wouldn't they have a flared lip on each end? Both tubes only seem to have a flared lip on only one end Also, saw this fix and looks pretty nice and easier than dealing with the flares: I wonder l...

Sport or Standard from the pic? I thought the Sport had the console steering? Ended up [buying the boat for] $2,500 due to a run in the paint I found on the front corner and the "title concern." It has two fresh coats of Pre-Kote Primer and two coats of Brightside. In the end, it was clean...

Thanks. The trailer has new bearings, wiring and lights - that said - it's only probably got a couple of years in salt water here. But a new one is only about $600 so it won't break the bank. Just didn't want to buy something wherein the title severely limited my resale - not that I plan on resellin...

[I am ] looking into buying an old classic [13-foot Boston Whaler boat] but the one I found is titled as "Homemade." For you Whaler Whaler boat owners, does this effectively kill resale value? Seems like [the restoration of the boat] has been well done and I can physically pick up the back...