CONTINUOUSWAVE

I have a 1986 Montauk 17. Because of easier repair than using wood and “glassing” over it, I was thinking about using 3/4 x 4-inch PVC “boards” to replace the glassed-in boards that the aluminum L-bracket and bolts attach the console to the deck. Q3: should I use PVC “boards instead of wood to reinf...

Two glassed-in boards used to secure a console to a deck [of an unidentified year, length, and model of a what may be a Boston Whaler boat] need replacing. I'd prefer not to [replace the glassed-in boards] with new glassed-in boards. I may [repair the console by] gluing-in PVC boards instead; the bo...

Q1: can soft areas in the deck {of an unidentified boat] be repaired by drilling multiple holes of 1/2-inch diameter into the soft areas, then using a fan [to promote drying of any moisture in the exposed area of the holes], then using an Allen wrench [as a drill to remove foam from below the deck l...

An improvised tool to clean a rigging tunnel is shown below in FIgure 1. riggingTunnelCleaningTool.JPG I found this tool at HARBOR FREIGHT, described as an "abrasive ball" of 4-inch diameter. Using a rasp I trimmed the abrasive ball to be a snug fit in the inside diameter of the rigging tu...

Thank you for clarifying the [the nature of the stencil and the federal hull identification] numbers. What I was looking for was my model year. I'm a new owner of a--now I know--a 1986 Montauk. There's a metal plate on the starboard transom that has the same number as the [metal tag in the anchor lo...

Thank you for the comprehensive article. I'm wondering what the black "pad" is underneath? It seems to protrude slightly in the front but not in the back. Do you think it's necessary?

I read the FAQ about identifying model year but on my 17 Montauk but [the stencil number and the federal HIN] do not match. The stenciled transom says 3C3597 and the metal plate in the bow stowage says BWCJ7084F586, which I interpret to mean it was built June 1986. Q1: [do you have] any ideas on [wh...