CONTINUOUSWAVE

quickenberger

For insurance purposes I am trying to get an idea of the replacement value for the 1995 19 Sentry that has been restored. There are not very many Sentry models out there but would like to get an idea of what y'all think. Here is the list of items on the boat: Motorguide Xi5 24V bow mounted trolling ...

quickenberger

An allen wrench works well for coring out a "hard point" in the foam that can be filled with epoxy. I would recommend adding microbaloons to the epoxy so the screw has a bit of a place to give. I've had straight epoxy crack when the screw was installed. Cotton flock also works.

quickenberger

You will have to do a little bit of mixing of epoxy or something. There is rapid set marine tex that you can google to find, or local hardware stores may have some marine epoxy made by loctite. It sets in 1-2 hours and is white-ish in color. A little trick I found for small nicks and dings that you ...

quickenberger

Another concern: I noticed the discharge air from the air pump is not filtered. Is there any reason why filtering it would be a bad idea? Maybe an all aluminum or stainless filter with a condensate trap and viton seals? Seems like non-treated air leaving the pump and going to the injectors is a bad ...

quickenberger

I have mostly finished the restoration on the 1995 Boston Whaler SENTRY 19. We took it out on July 3 and July 4, 2017. The [Mercury 150-HP OptiMax] engine would surge under 3000-RPM, and we only once got the boat on plane. After doing much googling, I narrowed down [the cause of the engine surging u...

quickenberger

My boat is a Sentry 19. In my discussion with the supplier, Viking Marine supplied many boat builders. The PTL-6 is the 6-inch circular deck access plate, and the molded deck recess is about 9.75-inches. The PTL-8 is the 8-inch circular deck access plates and the molded deck recess is almost 12-inch...

quickenberger

For my 1995 SENTRY, the black circular deck access plates are cracked and worn out. I ordered white circular deck access plates from Viking Marine through Fore and Aft Marine. However, I was informed that Viking Marine closed their doors last week, and their model PTL-6 and the PTL-8 circular deck a...

quickenberger

It does have a very strong nasty smell. When you are in the position to replace the tank I can get you hooked up with the guys that cut and bent the aluminum for mine. The material plus bending was ~$270.00. I welded it up but they also have certified welders, so if you want, I will get a quote for ...

quickenberger

There are a few sealants that are gasoline proof that you may consider if needed. One was commonly called B-Half in the aerospace industry. Its a polysulfide 2 part sealant that is aviation gas proof. We used it to seal integral fuel tanks in aircraft wings. Ethanol will reduce its life so if at all...

quickenberger

I have seen the episodes and while the body work is well done, the deck hatch being glassed down is a bad idea in my opinion. I figure its easier to cut silicone to get to the fuel tank than to have to grind or cut fiberglass to get to a fuel tank. I like the switches used (Bocatech) but at around $...

quickenberger

What I will do is start a build thread so that I'm not hijacking this one.

quickenberger

This shows the vacuum bag compressing the glass, as well as holding the deck flat against the concrete.

: image (8).jpeg (144.79 KiB) Viewed 6946 times

Finished product:

: photo (18).JPG (144.96 KiB) Viewed 6946 times

quickenberger

Chicagediver; Directly below the hole drilled in the fuel tank and aft of that was the only places I found wet foam. I did pull the wet wood out of the transom so that allowed access to dig a tunnel and inspect for water. photo (15).JPG This photo shows refilling the inspection hole with 4 lb densit...

quickenberger

Very neat. I am interested in seeing the pictures. Cudos for taking on a big project and finishing it. My 19ft Sentry was bought from a government auction and had been banged up a bit. When decommissioned they drilled a hole completely through the fuel tank and through the fiberglass cavity. Probabl...

quickenberger

A light buffing compound and a buffing pad attached to a variable speed buffer should do the trick. It'll also remove gel coat oxidation. For the one off job or weekend warrior Harbor Freight tools will do fine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-too ... shers.html

All sorts of options out there.

quickenberger

Thanks for letting me know, Jim.
Feel free to remove the photos and link to the other post's URL.

quickenberger

Your 21 OUTRAGE [may be] like my 1995 SENTRY 19. I decided to pull the [fuel] tank because the foam surrounding the tank was wet with saltwater. I am glad I did because there was significant corrosion. [I hope] a boat that is 38-years-old has had the tank replaced at least once. While you're in ther...

quickenberger

I guess I got lost in the sequence of things. Seems like rain is the most plausible culprit. Small amounts of rain over a large surface area equates to a lot of water. That much water getting into the tank is a probability. It is a possibility that the tank developed a pinhole, crack, or degraded ho...

quickenberger

Have any other boats in the area complained about water in their tanks? Maybe the place you fueled up had bad gas?

quickenberger

Looks like Dundalk is in the Baltimore area.

quickenberger

If you have to replace the fuel tank here is an example of what I think is good to do. I painted the fuel tank cavity. image (1).jpeg I foamed in the fuel tank image (4).jpeg I removed excess foam and sealed with a polyurethane sealant; expansion and contraction due to temperature will cause air bub...

quickenberger

From my limited experience with the whaler I have and from the composites experience from previous boats, the best thing to do is remove all of the stuff that can be removed from the boat. Usually involves removing fasteners. Then you have to scrub and clean real well to see what you are working wit...

quickenberger

I assume the screw head is what is stripped and not the threads formed where the screw goes into the fiberglass. If there are screws where the phillips head is going to strip or, in my case, have stripped then ez outs work. For stubborn screws that you know will strip or even shear off this tool wor...

quickenberger

Here are the next layers staggered and then bonded to each other. The outer skin is then bonded on. I vacuum bagged the transom to squeeze the layers together and also used clamps over the bag. Next step is to feather the seam where the skin was cut and reglass that so the original skin strength is ...

quickenberger

That whaler looks to be in good shape for the age. What do you plan on doing to it?

quickenberger

Yes, the seams will be staggered farther apart on the next layer. Think of an imaginary line down the middle of the two outboard pieces already installed in the above picture and the middle section being wider than the first one. Pictures will be able to explain better. I haven't had time this week ...

quickenberger

Here is the fit-up of the new transom core material (coosa board) on my 1995 19ft Sentry. I selected 1" thick material because the wood that came out was 2" thick and I want to stagger the seams of the core material. I left a 4" flange around the perimeter of the cutout on the transom...

quickenberger

Wet or rotted wood in the transom occurs when either no, or improper bedding of _any_ penetration occurs in the transom area. This actually can and does occur in the decking area with wood underneath. When our 21' Outrage was renovated, the shop found transom dry rot. Repaired via opening up the st...

quickenberger

I decided to remove the outer skin and it is finally starting to dry out. It may be a good time to just pull all the wood out and replace with something that won't absorb water at all.

quickenberger

When you drill inspection holes, is the wood wet all the way through, or just at the wood/glass interface? Its wet all the way through. I used a Harbor Freight 25" long 3/8" drill and drilled from the top cap down to about an inch of the bottom of the transom and the shavings were wet. Wh...

quickenberger

jimh wrote:I have heard that wood only rots with freshwater. Saltwater is supposed to suppress wood rot.

That is what I have heard as well. I hate to find out that it is not salt water in there and in a few years the transom gets rotten.

quickenberger

Wet wood will eventually rot. We had the transom replaced on our [1973], 21 Outrage, by ripping open the stern, replacing the rotted wood with actually a thicker-than-factory plywood laminate, re-glassing the stern and repainting. Your job would actually be a bit easier, as the 21-footer stern is n...

quickenberger

jimh wrote:Was the boat used in saltwater? Or freshwater?

Is the water in the transom from seawater or rain?

The boat was used in salt water but then sat out in the rain for over a year. I haven't tasted the wood yet to see if it was salty. :)

quickenberger

The air temperature here is starting to warm up enough to melt the ice away, and I started looking at the transom [of a Boston Whaler SENTRY 19 boat]. I found the through hull fittings were leaking. Also, the engine mount bolts weren't sealed very well, and water got into the wood there. The U-bolts...

quickenberger

Where will the trolling motor be installed? It will be installed on the front bow just to the side of the bow cleats. I may have to fabricate a locking track to extend the motor forward when deploying. Here is what I am thinking... The two batteries for the trolling motor can go in front of the for...

quickenberger

Earlier it was remarked that the SENTRY 19 would have two batteries in the forepeak for trolling motors. Where will the trolling motor be? I thought the SENTRY 19 had a closed foredeck, which would suggest the trolling motor must be a transom mounted motor. What is the forward deck configuration on...

quickenberger

If there is space available beneath the helm location that could be a good compromise on cable length vs balance. There is room just in front of a bulkhead where a battery box for all 3 can be made and mounted above the deck and tucked up there. I was hoping to keep that area for storage and maybe ...

quickenberger

Jim's comments regarding problems for the distance of your starting battery up in the bow would also be the same for mounting the trolling motor battery in the aft. While that is true the trolling motor has a 60A breaker so the continuous current is much less than a starter motor for a 150HP engine...

quickenberger

Those are good points. On a boat like this real estate is premium so maybe the engine starting battery could be located aft but the trolling motor batteries could be mounted up front. Are there resources available for how the pros rig the boats? I did a quick google search and found stuff on sail bo...

quickenberger

I am in the process of repairing gel coat cracks, damaged fiberglass, and replacing most of the foam under deck on a Sentry 19. The battery used to be strapped in the splash well but I am thinking about fabricating battery boxes and recessing them under a hatch at the front bow. There will be two ad...

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