CONTINUOUSWAVE

flymo

I had tried a number of vinyl cleaning products on our larger boat, including products from well-known, reputable companies, with little success. After 15 years in the sun, our cushions still had mildew and stains. We were considering getting some new cushions, but they are quite expensive. Based on...

flymo

From reading the performance report, the choice is between the 150 and the 200 Verado Pro. The 200 Verado is a nonstarter - the 150 accelerates better. I always prefer the maximum horsepower allowed, and I think you are right to be concerned about resale. I suspect the Verado Pro would be a lot more...

flymo

Yes, raising the motor those two holes would be the first step. It should lighten the steering, reduce the porpoising, improve the effect of trimming, and increase your top speed and fuel efficiency. It's also easy, and free if you do it yourself. Many, many Montauks have been rigged with those V-4s...

flymo

Mav - you absolutely need a barrier coat, applied by a knowledgeable person who understands how to prep the hull properly. Use a product from the same company that makes the topcoat you choose and you won't have any worries about compatibility. A barrier coat of a different color will tell you when ...

flymo

This certainly looks like a mistake in the manufacturing process. In my opinion, Whaler should give you a new hull, at a minimum. Somehow this extra piece of plastic got in there and is affecting the bonding of the various layers. It already looks like a huge repair, and it will never be right.

flymo

I nominate you for the "best excuse for taking a break from the job" award!

FYI I did try a jack plate on my 15 and didn't think it did a lot for the ride. Yes, it let me raise the motor but the only major difference I noted was a lot more noise from the exhaust.

flymo

That's a big chunk of change for sure. Have you raised the motor that last hole yet?

flymo

The 2004 Nantucket is rated at max 150hp. M Sounds like the E-TEC G2 150 H.O. would be perfect for this situation. It weighs the same as the regular 150, and sidesteps any concerns about "overpowering." Maybe the dealer will let you trade up? Barring that, raising the motor all the way (w...

flymo

El Rollo, I think I've mentioned this all before (and not to hijack this thread) but you're missing that midrange punch because you have too much blade area. I missed it too while I was running bigger props, but my current PowerTech SCD-3 totally rips - I just went from a 16-pitch to a 17 and it's s...

flymo

OK, finally had time to read the full thread. Seems like you're still having porpoising problems, you're hitting 5850 RPM when running light, and you have a basic 19-pitch aluminum prop. One cause of porpoising is the motor being mounted too low. So while it may not make a lot of difference, redrill...

flymo

Drew, I see no reason to redrill the lower holes. You could redrill the upper holes in the standard location, or a bit higher, to give yourself room for experimentation. Since they're not below the waterline the upper holes wouldn't need to be sealed so carefully - more a matter of cosmetics. I'm no...

flymo

Fuel pump is the most likely culprit. Carburetors are fine - it's not likely that all three got dirty between one run and the next. See if you can keep it going by pumping the fuel bulb. If that works, then the pump isn't pumping and you'll have figure out why. If it's the original pump, it could we...

flymo

Sorry for the delay, just saw your PM. I have not tried the SCD3 in the 17 pitch yet, only the 16. I plan to try the 17 soon - the 16 is wonderful but it will hit the 6450 RPM rev limiter at about 42 MPH when I'm running light and fast. I do not have a jack plate (tried it, didn't like it) so if you...

flymo

Thunderjet wrote:...the outboard sending units are digital and the gauge...is analog. Is that going to be a problem?

Yes.

flymo

Abe, why do you want to change over to run premix?

flymo

In general, a prop that gets you on a plane faster is better for waterskiing.

flymo

It's not that exact, or at least I wasn't - just point the open end toward the head and not the crankshaft. In practice, having the open end anywhere around 3 would be fine. I only bought 4 plugs. 2 lined up fine and the other 2 I had to swap between cylinders.

flymo

I'd love to test my F70 on a dyno but only if the participants in the debate will foot the bill! But indexing is trivially easy and costs nothing so I am planning to continue to do it. I do agree that plug orientation will be more critical in a direct injection motor - with indirect injection and pa...

flymo

No fuel problem will prevent the motor from cranking over on the starter - that has to be electrical. For starters, check the lanyard switch and jiggle the throttle to make sure it's really in neutral.

flymo

Speaking to indexing plugs for the F70, which is not a direct--injected 4-stroke, you just want to point the open end of the plug toward the valves in general. The valves are at the top of the cylinder - that is, at the stern. So looking that the plug as you install it, ideally the electrode would b...

flymo

...tell me more about spark plug indexing... Indexing the plugs is simply a matter of making sure the open side of the spark plug is pointed towards the valves, to let the spark ignite the fuel mixture more readily for more complete combustion. Practically speaking, the spark is exposed except wher...

flymo

I was an early adopter of the F70 when it first came out in the fall of 2010 as I recall. I switched from the venerable Johnson 70 triple. You can expect similar performance overall, but the characteristics are different. It took me quite a while to find the right prop for the F70, and I came to the...

flymo

I am sure Yamaha will be very interested in why the seal went out as well. It has to be a defective seal, improper installation, or a defect in the casting and machining of the sealing surface. Speaking of the latter, you should make sure the dealer is inspecting those surfaces carefully.

flymo

The F70 on my Supersport 15 is mounted two holes up - that is, one hole below the highest mounting position. It is quite likely the tech at the dealer will want to mount it lower - do not let him/her do so. After lengthy experimentation, the prop I like best is the PowerTech SCD3 in a 16 pitch. If y...

flymo

Cool! Don't mean to talk down to you, but since it's a serious safety concern, I hope you were using a full respirator for welding on the galvanized piece!

Flymo

flymo

My 15 is on its trailer in another state right now, so I can't say for sure. But from looking at a picture, my stern roller is around 10 inches forward of the transom, perhaps a bit more. That may or may not be safe, but it seems to work OK and hasn't caused any adverse effects that I can detect. Fl...

flymo

Yes indeed - no reason at all to put hydraulic steering on a 15! The no feedback cable system works great - steers just as easily, is much less expensive, and requires a lot less maintenance! As you will be in salt water, I would highly recommend installing a steersman nut to keep things working smo...

flymo

You need to figure out what's loose - that is, what is moving and what is staying still.

The wheel clearly has play. Does the shaft move with it, or stay put? If the shaft moves with the wheel, possibly the whole assembly is loose in the dash.

flymo

Wow - Whaler built a tow arch that won't let you raise the motor all the way? Oops - some designer is looking for a new job.

flymo

I'll be interested to see what you come up with - might have to try it myself, now that you have me thinking about it!

Flymo

flymo

As another 15 owner, I agree that to have to drain the anchor locker when underway is very annoying and awkward, especially when you're alone. I would suggest a slightly different approach. Go with a single piece hatch cover, no hole, but then glue a gasket to the hull around the perimeter of the lo...

flymo

Great work - now that's the way to repair a transom! I assume you'll place the seams away from the motor mount holes?

Flymo

flymo

Many 15-footers were originally rigged with OMC 60 or 70-HP outboard engines which weighed about 270-lbs. On my 15-footer, I have a Yamaha F70 which weighs a little bit less than [270-lbs] and requires no separate oil tank like the old OMC engines did. You should be fine going in that range [270-lbs...

flymo

Certainly replace all the hoses, if that has not been done already. Then you may wish to have a pressure test done to see if there are any leaks.

Flymo

flymo

I have used KING StarBoard for some projects. It is a great material: easy to clean, does not rot, and will not absorb water. It has two major limitations: --panels are not very stiff, and --it can't really be glued, so you have to use mechanical fastenings. The latter may not be a limitation, but t...

flymo

The 170 MONTAUK is a great choice for New Hampshire lakes. In fact, I recently recommended one to a relative who lives near Squam. You'll really enjoy it. The 170 MONTAUK still gives the close-to-the-water feel of the classic Whalers but has more usable room.

Flymo

flymo

Joe, I think your question is whether it would make sense to overpower your Outrage 17 such that you can run at 40 MPH at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. The answer is no, it would not make sense. It is hard to say what horsepower you'd need to achieve that, but it is certainly higher than 200 horsepower - may...

flymo

John, your most recent link says the posting has expired.

Flymo

flymo

A classic Montauk is quite small for 5 people. And it sounds like it is in great shape, so you'd get a great price for it. The 170 will feel quite a bit larger, and with the higher freeboard, you'll feel more in it than on it - important with kids on board. My only concern with keeping the 170 would...

flymo

No, lowering the motor does not make sense. In general, lowering the motor will tend to lift the bow more and make porpoising worse. Think of the prop as being at the end of a lever, pushing the bow up. Longer lever means more lift. Try raising the motor that last hole and get a good stern lifting p...

flymo

Thanks Phil - I did see those photos, but because the angle is so different from the ones I posted, it is hard to compare.

flymo

Does anyone have a picture of the Yamaha Performance Series prop? I would be interested in how it compares, in terms of blade area, rake, and cup to the Stiletto Advantage 1 that I found to perform poorly on my boat, and the SCD-3 which was a vast improvement. I understand that the SCD-3 is very sim...

flymo

As the owner of an F70 (on a 15) I recommend an easy-spinning propeller with relatively small blade area to let your new motor get up in the RPM range where it makes its power. I ran a propeller with larger blades for a couple of years and was never completely happy with its performance, so after co...

flymo

It is what it is, a classic carbed two-stroke. It's going to be noisy, smelly, and use a lot of fuel compared to a modern fuel-injected motor, especially at slow speeds such as trolling. Other than the fact that it's 20 years old, there's no reason to expect any particular reliability problems. The ...

flymo

Bob, it may be too late, but if not, you may wish to consider using Coosa board or one of the other composites for the transom; plywood will eventually rot. Regarding the motor and the setback jack plate, my one concern would be how might the weight of the outboard and its location affect the static...

flymo

I think I have a chunk of mahogany somewhere I can use, so would plan to make my own. The design I have in mind would be a mahogany cover, with a piece of starboard dropping vertically to hold the pump and sensor. I know I can screw the sensor to the starboard, but may need to use some type of clamp...

flymo

Thanks - the picture on Amazon looked quite different without the foot, and your detailed response explains it. I think I'll work out something with the same components, but possibly mount them to a mahogany sump cover so as to avoid drilling.

I appreciate the info!

Flymo

flymo

Neat setup! I am thinking of going that way for my 15 - I had to drain quite a bit of water from it a few times this past summer. The previous owner had one of the auto pumps in there, but this seems better. Can you please clarify the model of the Ultima switch you used? I see the 36303 but it looks...

flymo

Nice - free is good! And hopefully since they weren't new you avoided the stench.

Flymo

flymo

I use this chock: http://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-wheel-chock-with-eyebolt-69828.html . chock.jpg It seems ideal for the chock on a rope setup (although the eyebolt is just zinc-plated so it will rust a bit) and I'd expect 2 of them to hold almost any vehicle. The only downside is that those cho...

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