CONTINUOUSWAVE

He is a real small boat champion. I have his excellent book- "The Outboard Boater's Handbook: Advanced Seamanship and Practical Skills". He toured the Labrador coast in an 18 foot Lund like I have. There is even a chapter called "Customizing a Whaler". Some very fine reading.

I contacted an eBay seller. He says it is a kit intended to adapt trim-and-tilt onto a non-trim-and-tilt engine, and the kit includes everything needed. In fact, [the seller] says it comes with both a cowling mounted switch as well as a console switch, and all the wiring, relays, and connectors. The...

That's the problem, no one lists what is in the kit, not even BRP. The [sellers] that do show some parts, still show unopened boxes in the picture. Very frustrating. Once I can get maybe a parts list and it has what I need, then I am confident I can make the modification. II already know that the lo...

I have a 1993 OMC 48SPL on my 15-foot Sport. I want to convert to power trim-and-tilt with an OMC 175297 kit, but I can't tell how complete the kit is.

Has anyone done this?

If so, what was included?

How did it turn out?

Did you have to purchase anything else?

I have a couple of 30/35 hp Johnnyrude motors and several years ago I took them apart to build one good one with electric start and remote controls. Now I am concentrating on building another out of the left over parts. It will be an electric start tiller (tiller handle scavenged from a 15hp- fits!)...

That was very touching. Makes me realize how old I am. I've been using Interlux for about 40 years, always good results.

That's one fuel tank?!? I thought it was two- good placement up front- it will balance your weight. I love seeing the limited space on these great boats being maximized.

Wow, that's an admirable set up. Perfect small no nonsense console. What is the aft deck made of? It looks like Star Board or is someone a fiberglass wizard? Gas tanks and battery out of the way. Excellent use of space, and you can stand/sit on it. NICE!

I was looking for a bare hull to fix up and I found this beat up 1985 Sport 15 for a pretty good price. I replaced the drain tubes with stainless steel, patched about a million screw holes, and painted the inside with polyurethane, decks with anti-skid granules added. Outer hull is original, compoun...

Post the motor model number- it's easy to decode. This link is a good one-http://www.maxrules.com/omc_models.html

Dutchman--thank's, it's a 15 but what's two-feet among friends? Irongate-- I didn't realize you replaced all the wood: very nice. I especially like the side console and wrap around railing. Most 13's don't have all that, just the bench seat and a tiller. A 35-HP engine will be perfect for you. By th...

With a steering station and remote controls the 35hp will be plenty of power and manageable. It looks like the wood needs a lot of TLC too. I chose to ditch the wood and go with a small center console, and a flip back cooler seat. My gripe with Whalers is that the consoles are too wide. I found a sm...

Now consider this- My 1985 30hp Evinrude whoops butt over my 1980 Johnson 35hp. Why? Same displacement, 99.9% same parts, same controls, same props. It seems in the eighties the industry came under fire for overstating the hp of outboards. Similar to Detroit rating hp at WOT just before the engines ...

Good luck with the project. I did about the same with an '85 15 foot Sport but I needed to let the sun bake out as much water as I could first. Then I used white Marine Tex to fill the cracks and holes. I also used Marine Tex to glue in new stainless steel drain tubes. The advice about "V"...

I have an '85 15 footer. After researching the job I elected to epoxy in stainless steel 1" diameter tubes. There was a lot of damage/empty space surrounding the tubes that new brass ones would not have corrected. So I filled that empty space with glass mat and polyester resin after epoxying th...

After two seasons at a slip I have not noticed the water line change at all. My suspicion of water was caused by a lack of performance towards late summer. The boat felt "heavy", but maybe it was something else. There were some barnacles at the scum line under the bow when I hauled it out,...

I drilled a small hole right before the transom wood, and . . .NOTHING! Whew. Not only that, but the foam sounded crunchy and dry. I guess the deck wood was wet but it didn't migrate down. Beer time.

Thanks, Jim. I knew I read that somewhere, and of course it was right here on this wonderful forum. (insert red faced emoticon). When I first got the boat there were many bad leaks in the deck from screw holes, and I drilled many 1/2-inch-diameter escape holes. Letting the bare hull bask in the summ...

I can't prove it but I suspect there is water hiding in my foam. If I wanted to drill a hole so that it might drain out over the winter, where would the best location be? I'm guessing at the stern would be best, but how thick is the transom wood? How thick is the keel? How far forward of the transom...