CONTINUOUSWAVE

flymo

Bob, I think it could be pre-igniting off the carbon if there is a ton of it. The carbon could also be fouling the intake ports on the one cylinder.

If there are big chunks of carbon in there, it might be easier to just pull the head and have at it with a popsicle stick.

Tim

flymo

That's a bit of a stumper, Bob. If the spark is OK, and it seems like it is, then it's got to be a fuel problem - but how a single-carb twin has problems only on one cylinder is beyond me. I would have said "reeds" but you've already checked them. You characterize this as a rough idle prob...

flymo

They sell them on Amazon. I may try the diesel version, but I am worried that there's only a top handle - seems like you need three hands to hold in in place and push the button.

flymo

How fast do they pour? That's the downfall of many of the containers I have tried - you're holding a 5 gallon jug up in the air while the fuel comes out in drops.

flymo

I can't speak to any possible change in threading on the marine gas tank caps - but for lawn equipment, look up "EZ Pour Spout."

flymo

Note that the older style "unscrew to vent" caps are still available separately - and work as well as they always did. I'm all for being environmentally sound, but I've spilled far more gas with all of these newer style caps for different types of tanks than I ever did with the bad old ones.

flymo

Really nice - thanks for the pics!

flymo

Is the cracking just on the sides of the hull and transom? How about the underneath of the hull? My take on the cracks is that [they were caused because the boat] was just left out in the sun on a trailer for years, never protected, or never waxed. Impact damage usually produces more closely spaced ...

flymo

Using the front thwart to route the cables is a neat trick! However, if the original poster is looking at an optimized fishing setup, he may not want a thwart at all.

And I want to see video of someone using a poling platform on a 15 - I'm guessing it would end with a splash...

flymo

That's a pretty good price if the work comes out OK. I didn't think anyone did anything on a boat for less than $1000!

flymo

It's quite a bit of work to go to a center console - you need to build a rigging tunnel, for example. A cooler as the pilot seat is fine, as long as you're OK without a backrest - and the person you're sharing the seat with had better be a good friend. Regarding the general idea of turning a 15 into...

flymo

Thanks Ridge - I found the info on the old forum, and putting aside the commentary from certain drama queens, it was interesting. I like the Montauk 170, but always felt it was a little underpowered and I don't like the massive black motor they sell on it now. The E-TEC is a great solution. If /when...

flymo

RIDGE--Wow. The Evinrude E-TEC 115 H.O. on the 170 MONTAUK looks great! It looks much less bulky than the stock motor on my friend's boat, and I also like the color match. Do you have any performance data?

flymo

However, it looks like the crossmember just bolts on, so you could get another one, mount it on top of the side rails, and put another keel roller on it. You could also gain a little ground by flipping the existing keel roller around to the forward side of the crossmember - but my inclination would ...

flymo

It's one thing to say we now know what to avoid (dropping into reverse when slowing down suddenly) but if you read the tales of woe, you'll see that most folks didn't intend to find reverse, but did. It's not always easy to work a throttle lever precisely when things are bouncy. I would not characte...

flymo

On my 15, I ran the transducer cable through the splashwell drain hole on one side. I had to take a file to the corners of the attached plug to get it to fit through the hole (Lowrance transducer) but I didn't have to remove much material at all. It made for a very clean install, and the 5/16" ...

flymo

I've inadvertently run my F70 dry a couple of times--no big deal. After connecting up to the full tank, I used the priming procedure that was recommended by my dealer before the first start (I did the install myself): --pump primer bulb until hard --turn the key to the on position (not start) for a ...

flymo

Duane, my understanding, from reading that thread and some others, is that the mechanism works as follows: 1) boat is moving forward and operator needs to stop suddenly 2) operator pulls back to neutral but goes just past it into reverse 3) motor stalls as it's at idle speed with a lot of backwards ...

flymo

If it's a 2006, you mean a 170 Montauk, right? I have driven a friend's 2010 version, which I think has the same Mercury 90 FOURSTROKE. On the 170 with its fairly wide stern, the engine weight was not problem, so lightening-up would not seem to have a major advantage. As long as your existing Mercur...

flymo

How do you hydrolock an engine going from forward to reverse? http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/021222.html That article also clarifies that the Yamaha controls have adjustable friction, but not an adjustable detent. [Moderator's comment: Also see a more recent discussion re electronic cont...

flymo

Chuck, I am inferring from your message that there is no actual lock in neutral like the old mechanical controls. Is there instead a strong, positive detent at neutral, or is it adjustable in some way? That would be sufficient, in my opinion. I frequently drive my sister-in-law's 18 with an aftermar...

flymo

Chuck, need some pics of that bad boy!

I always loved the Offshore 27, and if I hit the lottery I'd get the version of it that's still available from Brunswick CGP. I have a friend who has one of the 4.2s on another boat, and he loves it.

Tim

flymo

Yes, it's a bit confusing. Up through 60 horses, Yamaha's "F" designation denotes the smaller gearcase, and "T" refers to the intermediate gearcase. At 70 horses, they only offer the intermediate gearcase, so the F70 has the same gearcase and gear ratio as the T60, while the F60 ...

flymo

I don't know the answer. I would ask whether the new controls have a positive stop at neutral, to prevent inadvertently slipping into reverse when stopping suddenly. The old Yamaha mechanical controls had this feature, but some other manufacturer's controls do not, and I am not sure about the new Ya...

flymo

It will get to the RPM in the same time if I keep the pitch close. No, it really won't - there's more to propeller design than pitch. I am well aware that you have a Mercury Bigfoot, which has the larger gearcase and different gear ratio compared to the regular Mercury 60 (as does the Yamaha F70, c...

flymo

Sailor, I own a 3.3L F200 and we've had 10 great years with it. Despite that experience, I would not even think about getting one today - 4.2L all the way. There is no substitute for cubic inches, which is especially important if you want a 250 - do you really want a smaller displacement motor, tune...

flymo

Just based on my own experience with the F70, I would NOT recommend a 4-bladed prop. You want less blade area, not more, to allow the prop to spin up faster, into the motor's high RPM where it makes its power. I am very happy with the SCD3 on my F70 and I would recommend trying that first. A heavy b...

flymo

I am not really clear on why you want a four-blade propeller, as opposed to just dropping pitch to get better acceleration. I had the impression that four-blade propellers were for better grip and heavy loads, not for improved acceleration. In fact, I would have thought that in your situation of a r...

flymo

Don't be shocked as 11s are as rare as hen's teeth. Can you take a pic so people know what problem you are facing?

flymo

Having tried the two pendants thing, I advise against that - it's a complete nightmare. As wind and tide swing the boat around, the pendants sink and wrap themselves around the mooring chain and the whole thing becomes a tangled mess. Been there, done that, and you don't want to. If you are in a she...

flymo

Fish, glad to hear the performance has improved so much with the fixes recommended on the old forum. Are you running a Yamaha shifter, and if so, which one? As I recall, the Yamaha shifters I have used have a hard detent lock at neutral, that is, when you go to neutral it locks there until you expli...

flymo

The classic 15' is "for sure" a remarkable hull. However, one should test drive the newer Montauk 150. Nothing short of "amazing"! I like the new-style Montauks in general, and would consider buying one if you were allowed to choose your own motor. Even then, the horsepower rati...

flymo

If you read the old forum, it has many discussions on this subject. The short story is that the cracks really can't be repaired - you need to sand down to the bare glass and recoat. Big job.

F

flymo

Assuming this is on your Montauk 170, the more powerful motor would appeal to the very small subset of buyers who are willing to take the risk of operating a boat with a motor that is above the rated horsepower of the hull. All others will run away fast. Having driven a Montauk 170 with the 90, it s...

flymo

Although I'm not sure I completely sure what location you are describing, if there are no cracks elsewhere on the boat and these are on both sides, it seems likely the hull was exposed to some stress that caused them. I would be careful moving forward with this. I have only seen the term "deadr...

flymo

I have an all-stainless horn from a company called Ongaro. I bought it at www.defender.com. It has held up well and has a nice loud tone.

F

flymo

Quite right - improved range is a benefit of modern outboards with improved fuel economy that is often overlooked in repower discussions. For anyone who spends a lot of time trolling, the difference is really dramatic. On a family boat, the reduced noise and smell is also significant.

F

flymo

Jim, the radial arm saw has largely been replaced by the sliding compound mitre saw, which is somewhat safer, and more versatile. A 12" version will let you cut fairly wide planks to length. For the work you describe, I'd be inclined to get that plus a handheld circular saw, commonly known by t...

flymo

My sister-in-law has the same problem on her 18 - recurring stains, light brown in color. Unfortunately the diagnosis, from a local shop which restores a lot of Whalers, is that the cause is indeed the problem you cite, water in the hull, combined with relatively thin, old gelcoat. A coat of wax wil...

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