Hull Drains; Marine Caulk

A conversation among Whalers
Buzzcut2239
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:37 am

Hull Drains; Marine Caulk

Postby Buzzcut2239 » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:54 pm

Hi guys. Yesterday (September 17, 2016) I pulled my 1998 Boston Whaler DAUNTLESS 13 from our seasonal slip to take it home. I opened up the rear access panel where the engine rigging passes through the hull and found water. I pulled the plug, emptying out [the water].

I assume that since [the sump or area where the water was found] has a plug, it is normal for water to seep in there.

Does this mean that I need to re-caulk the edges on the panel?

The round screw in part of the panel was tight when I opened it, but the caulking around the outside edges of the panel look a little worn.

I'm going to buy a new plug.

What marine grade caulk should I purchase?

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it!
Dave

jimh
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Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:25 pm
Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
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Re: Hull Drains

Postby jimh » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:09 pm

Most Boston Whaler boats have a sump area in the stern, often on the Starboard side, which is the lowest place in the boat into which water on the deck will drain. These sumps almost always have a through-hull drain to the sea. The drain can be plugged or left open. The Owner's Manual gives advice about how to manage the drain and plug. The typical practice is to leave the drain plugged if there is a sump pump in the sump that evacuates water overboard and is actuated by a float switch. If there is no sump pump in the sump, the drain can be left open all the time, but generally that is done only if the static water line of the boat is low enough that the amount of seawater that will enter the drain will not overflow the sump area.

As for making a determination about whether or not Boston Whaler intended the sump drain to be plugged, consult the owner's manual for your boat. In practice, the ability to leave the drain open all the time really depends on the boat waterline.

It is entirely normal for water that comes aboard an open cockpit boat to flow into the lowest point it can.

Engine splash wells may have some rubber rigging grommets which are intended to prevent enormous quantities of water from the engine splash well from passing through the opening of the engine splash well that was made in order that the engine rigging cables and wiring could pass through the wall of the splash well and continue on their way to the helm.

jimh
Posts: 11721
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:25 pm
Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
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Re: Marine Caulk

Postby jimh » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:15 pm

If you want to improve the seal between two section of a Boston Whaler boat hull which were molded as two separate components and abut each other, use a sealant or caulk. Do not use an adhesive.

If the caulk is going to be visible, you should use a caulk that matches the color of the gel coat of the two adjoining components you are trying to seal. If those components were molded in Desert Tan gel coat, an off-white or almond color caulk can be used. I don't know that there is anything special about marine grade caulk. If you just need a sealed joint, you can use bathroom caulk. Silicon caulk is probably the easiest to use. If you really want to use a marine product, use 3M Marine Silicon Sealant. The WHITE color will have to do. See

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 251&rt=rud

Buzzcut2239
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:37 am

Re: Hull Drains; Marine Caulk

Postby Buzzcut2239 » Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:07 am

Thanks Jim!