190 Montauk Anchor

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190 Montauk Anchor

Postby Tacky79 » Wed Jul 25, 2018 12:55 pm

My brand new Danforth got jammed (between boulders or something), and I had to cut it free, along with six feet of nice stainless chain, too.

I need to pick up another anchor. I had a S600 9-lbs Danforth. It really stinks to cut the rode on a brand new anchor!

For a 190 Montauk what anchor is best?

I am not certain what typical bottoms are where we anchor—mostly in reservoirs in Colorado—maybe rock and mud, I suppose.
2017 Boston Whaler Montauk 190 w/ 150 Merc/Fish Pkg/Bowrail delete/aft seating
1979 Boston Whaler Harpoon 5.2 sailboat with sails and a tiller :D

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Re: Used my anchor once. Got it stuck.

Postby frontier » Wed Jul 25, 2018 3:32 pm

Take a look at the Chene anchor. 100% retreivable (slip ring design) and no chain required (or recommended). 2:1 rode ratio. $35 to $45 depending on size. Made in USA in Fenton Michigan.

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Re: Used my anchor once. Got it stuck.

Postby Jefecinco » Thu Jul 26, 2018 9:48 am

Tacky—We're using a plow type on our 190. It's never stuck on anything although I once retrieved a huge ball of anchor rode with it. This was at a well known "fishing hot spot" and the rode came with a few lures. I seem to recall that it was our only catch of the day. It made a mess in the boat but I took it back to the launch ramp to get rid of it.

The few times the plow wanted to be stuck we were able to break it out by tying off the rode to an aft cleat to remove all the slack and powered over the anchor. The leverage from the anchor stock (arm) broke it out.

So far it has been effective in sand, mud and gravel.

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Re: Used my anchor once. Got it stuck.

Postby CTJackC » Wed Aug 15, 2018 11:12 pm

Get an anchor ball set up. You can pretty much always break an anchor free with this setup. I've used them in shallow water with really rocky bottom (tautog fishing in CT) and deep water (100 feet) when the current is cranking.

youtube has videos but basic discussion can be found via this link. You just need to be careful not to run over the rode and foul your prop (buddy did it on my boat when I had him take the wheel)..

Link: https://www.boatingmag.com/how-to/using-anchor-ball


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Phil T
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Re: 190 Montauk Anchor

Postby Phil T » Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:47 am

Selecting an anchor depends on your local ocean, river or lake bottom conditions.

While I recommend a 11 lb LewMar branded Claw style, it may not be right for your conditions.

For preventing the anchor from being unretrievable, rig up a buoy line to the top of the shaft, or is it the shank? (see the small hole)

Note this anchor fits in a Montauk 17, 170 and Outrage 17 I and II anchor locker. Don't forget the 4 squares of white (or almond for desert tan interiors) of Dri-Dek.

They really make stainless steel anchor chain? Fancy. I figure galvanized is good enough.
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1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115

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Re: 190 Montauk Anchor

Postby jimp » Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:16 am

The sad thing about anchoring is that every time you throw the anchor over the side there is chance that you will not get it back.

Anchor ball is a good idea, I've used one for years. Stainless chain, while pretty & expensive, is not needed, galvanized works fine.

You really need two anchors:
1. Everyday anchor (possible throw-away that you can risk losing) that has minimal cost and can "just do the job". I used a 3-pound Danforth with chain satisfactorily for years with my 1982 17-ft Montauk. I also used it in light conditions for my 1990 Revenge -22 W.T.
2. The anchor you want to hold you when it gets nasty. I used a 9-pound Danforth for the Montauk and Fortress anchor for the Revenge (I also had a 22-pound Bruce that I never used as it was too bulky aboard the Revenge - great anchor but of no use). But that's what I used.

Others have posted good ideas and there are likely better anchors for rocky areas.