CONTINUOUSWAVE

OK, this is for Phil, but I am hoping that you all will weigh in.

I have a 1988 Montauk 17 resting in an E-Z-Loader galvanized trailer with bunks. Works pretty well, although lining it up to load by myself can be challenging in a heavy wind or current. Since the boat is pretty much all set and I can't think of anything else to buy for it, wondering what you all would suggest for modifications and additions to make the trailer better. What have you found to make life easier with the trailer? Any suggestions would be appreciated. As long as my wife doesn't find out.

Permanently installed rear tie down straps that go to the transom eyes are a real labor and time saver. They are available in stainless steel. I believe BassPro sells them. The are installed on reels with ratchet handles. Truly wonderful. My spare tire includes a complete hub assembly with bearings. I doubt I'll ever need to replace wheel bearings on the side of the road. I also carry an IR thermometer that can read hub or tire temperatures by aiming and squeezing a trigger. I check the trailer tires and hubs at every stop. If I'm towing more than a couple of miles I'll stop at around the five mile point to check the temps and check them again before launching.

[Changed topic. Please start a new thread for you new topic.--jimh]

Using 12-inch keel rollers on the back two cross-members has helped me greatly in loading my Newport, especially in windy conditions.

So far, great recommendations. Keep them coming!

OldKenT--how do you set the keel rollers in relation to the bunk height?

Is most of the boat weight taken by the rollers or the bunks?

Bob -

Due to having to solo launch and retrieve outside a no-wake zone with large waves from tugs, ferries and USCG 41's, I installed stern guide rollers on my trailer.

I installed the heavy duty style http://www.easternmarine.com/heavy-duty-roller-boat-trailer-bow-guides-1-pair-86106 rather than the PVC to cut down on the flexing. I installed them within 1" of the hull to make a tight fit.

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/110044231333731607664/album/AF1QipOAA3ljLxOeWXNlDnhq8YCEckn8nrxJ42XPj164/AF1QipPlybUdda7N-NmERQ8nFdI5dndAOjLMjBZxyylp

Got them from Eastern Marine, a great web source for OEM trailer parts.
http://www.easternmarine.com

They really saved my bacon when launching/retrieving on the Piscatisqua River (Eliot) during a ripping ebb tide.

Install guide posts.

Please keep thread on the topic of trailer modifications.

Bob,

On my trailer for the Montauk I installed guides for the bunks. Sure makes it easier to load. Also LED lighting which is waterproof and seems to be less problem prone than the original lighting.

Tom

In the reference section of this web site, Jim has posted articles giving details of how best to set up your trailer. I followed them, and highly recommend them. Easy to understand and apply, and they work!

How wide are the bunk?

Are the bunks made out of PT 4x6?

I removed from trailer the bunks and cut 1-inch off the top. I ran in on a table saw.

I replaced the 1-inch of removed wood with 1-inch KING StarBoard.

I counter sunk galavznized stove bolts about halfway. Bolted them all the way through the bunk. I spaced them about 1-foot apart depending on how long the bunks are.

Then I repalced the bunks back on the trailer.

By doing this the boat will fly off the trailer, the plastic with not hurt the hull, and you never have to mess with a carpet covering.

Jefecinco,

I cant seem to find the trailer mounted ratchets on the BassPro website. Do you have a link? Will they stand up to repeated dunking in salt water? Sounds like a great idea.

Contender,

I believe that the bunks on the trailer are carper covered metal. I could probably just screw the star board onto them. Are there any worries about the starboard damaging the gel coat?

Phil,

I was thinking about the guide ons that are two to three feet long, along the sides of the boat. Do you like the rollers better? Any down side?

Thanks to all.

Bob

BoatBuckle G2 Stainless Steel Retractable Transom Tie-downs are available from numerous sources including BassPro. Different lengths are sold. Bow eye tie-downs are also available if you think your winch strap could use a little help. Eastern Trailer has a good reputation.

There is a long, multi-part article in REFERNCE about trailer set up. You may find that reading this article will give you more ideas and answer some of your questions. Start at

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/

Links to all the trailer articles are given there.

Bob -

The only down side to my rear rollers was I had a limit in how far to submerge the trailer. This was only a problem on very steep ramps. The Eliot ME ramp on to the Piscatisqua was tricky since it is very steep at low tide and the tidal current can be wicked at full ebb.

I preferred the rollers so I could use one side as a pivot point without damaging the boat.

I did not select the tall PVC guides (even with the internal pipes) after watching boaters get caught at the ramp with a set of Moran tugboat or USCG 41' waves hit them.

My tall PVC guides get tweaked almost every time I launch or recover. Just not up to having 4000 pounds of boat bumping into them.

Thanks all for your suggestions. I went with the Smith-brand 60-inch-tall PVC-covered metal guides. So far, my experience with them has been great. They especially help when launching and recovering solo in a wind and current. No complaints. I also had the entire trailer re-wired. andI exchanged all of the lamps on the trailer with LED lamps--looks pretty sharp. Do you-all use dielectric grease on the plug connectors to prevent corrosion?

Thanks again,

Bob

Yes, a dab will do ya.

Photos Bob, photos!!!!!

Bob, since you're in a modifying mood and now have PVC guides, how 'bout changing the rear lights to Pipelights (http://www.veveinc.com/shop/Pipe-Light-Kit-T-1019-LED-Lights..html?gclid=CjwKEAjwgo6_BRC32q6_5s2R-R8SJAB7hTG-DS0pUxqoGAbmeskLrYJwWuONXZSuJI3lUj1VV2LBKhoCnG3w_wcB)?

I have a set on my trailer - they are more visible on the road, plus they will last longer as they never get submerged. And the number 1 reason, for me, is that I don't smash my knees on the low-mounted lights when I come around the corner of the trailer!

Tim

I do not put dielectric grease on any electrical contact of any connector. The voltage is only 12-Volts so there is no need to use some specialty ultra-high-insulation grease. You could put Vaseline grease on 12-Volt connectors. But I never put any. Grease just collects dirt and grime. If you are worried about water getting into the connector, use a dust-cap or dummy plug when the connector is not mated. If you are worried about water getting into the connetor when mated, use a better connector.

I might occassionally spray a trailer connector's exposed contacts with some WD-40 if they got wet. WD-40 displaces water and restores electrical connections. It probably won't work if your connector is full of grease.