2003 Dauntless 220 Repair Part Sources

[Warpdrv]

Hello there all. This year we picked up (from my fiance's cousin) a Dauntless 220. He had purchased it new and rarely used it--it maybe has about 100 hours on the engine, if that. It needed some love, and I have been going over it with a fine-tooth comb to replace things that are shot or need attention. The 220 DAUNTLESS was stored inside for the first 12-years then was shuffled outside in order for his business to grow.

I have replaced the VHF, stereo, speakers, bilge pump, horn, and aft navigation lamp and mount. I have been cleaning it from head to toe. There was a good amount of oxidation but it buffs out nicely with some effort.

The Mercury-branded 225-HP FOURSTROKE outboard purrs like a kitten and runs flawlessly. I changed the crankcase oil and lower unit oil. I need to get the impeller changed, even though [the water pump] has good pressure. I just don't have the confidence in it with it sitting so long and don't want to burn up the motor. I will get to the spark plugs as well.

I relocated the FM antenna inside the console and moved the VHF antenna to the stern.

I am not new to Whalers--a buddy of mine and rehabbed and flipped a couple Guardian's years back. When this fell in my lap for the right price, I couldn't pass it up.

Things I could use assistance on:

While replacing the horn, found that it still didn't work, although the horn tests good. I pulled the switch panel; the switch [continuity check was] good. Turns out that the fuse [or circuit] breaker has 12-Volts on the supply side and only puts out 7-Volts to the load side.

The 220 DAUNTLESS came with Garmin 2010c. The previous owner mounted the bracket and never installed the unit itself. I ended up selling it knowing I want something less dated.

What is the best place to get a water pump impeller kit? And which Impeller kit to get?
Model # 1225F23AK
Serial Number # 0T761511

What is the spark plug number for this engine? So I can order and have them ready to go.

Is it possible to upgrade the [gauges] to something digital?

Wouldn't mind modernizing that dash with new switches and gauges. No hurry but it would be nice.

Looking at adding a couple Simrad 9's to the helm, one for map and one for sonar. Thinking of the Total scan transducer but I'm concerned about mounting location with the freshwater washdown intake's location - and limited room with the trim tabs there. Suggestions ?

Glad to have a source for all things Whaler here.

[jimh]

...I need a source for [the console mounted switches or fuses or circuit breakers].

The switches should have some sort of manufacturer's ID on it. Inspect them closely. Call Boston Whaler customer service to get the exact model and brand. They are typically off the shelf items. I suspect they are probably Blue Sea Systems CONTURA switches. Compare at

https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... a_Switches

Ordering a switch is really quite a project in interpretation and study of the manufacturer's product codes, as these switches come in a huge variety of switch contact arrangements, illumination, and switch action options, and even a larger number of combinations of those options. Get the OEM part number off the defective switch and see if it matches something from Blue Sea Systems. Or, call Sue at TWIN CITIES MARINE in Wisconsin.

The circuit breakers are not identified in the electrical drawing. They're likely to be off-the-shelf products. Boston Whaler may have used E.T.A as a source. Also compare these Blue Sea Systems products:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7052/P ... r_-_5_Amps

With the waterproof boot installed, they may be what you need. See

https://www.bluesea.com/products/4135/P ... ot_-_Clear

If the problem is a fuse, then the fuses are probably just 3AG series LittleFuse cartridges, and are available from many sources.

But check the connections at all circuit elements before buying any replacement parts. The source of the voltage drop may be just from an oxidized connection. Some WD-40 can often do wonders.

Again, in the future use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL to seek advice on repairs to small boat electrical power distribution problems.

[jimh]

Is it possible to upgrade the [gauges] to something digital?

I suspect that the engine on your 220 DAUNTLESS is really a Yamaha F225 power head. Brunswick had no four-stroke-power-cycle engines of their own in c.2000 in that horsepower, and Boston Whaler was very reticent to use the OptiMax engines. Brunswick bought thousands of F225 engines from Yamaha, painted black and decorated with Mercury decals, and fitted them to their wiring harnesses and remote controls. Many of these were sold on the transom of Boston Whaler boats.

Typically these re-painted Yamaha engines DO NOT have Mercury Smartcraft instrumentation. They cannot be easily adapted to any sort of digital instrumentation because the basic engine controller does not have a digital output. The only method to get digital instrumentation would be to buy an analog-to-digital adaptor. You would then have to engineer the fitting of the adaptor onto this engine. Then you would have to perform some sort of calibration of the adaptor sensors.

Use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL for this sort of topic in the future.

[jimh]

What is the best place to get a water pump impeller kit? And which Impeller kit to get?
Model # 1225F23AK
Serial Number # 0T761511

What is the spark plug number for this engine?

The best place to get maintenance parts is from your local dealer. You may pay a few dollars more than the cheapest place on the internet, but the dealer can often give you help and tips. The dealer will know the exact replacement part number--usually--and you will avoid ordering the wrong parts by mail.

Since this engine is probably--I am almost certain--a Yamaha engine, you can also get parts from a Yamaha dealer. See some comments in this regard at

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/013352.html

If you plan to work on the engine, get the factory service manual. You will find information on spark plugs, spark gap, and installation in the manual. Often on modern outboard engines the spark plugs must be indexed during installation.

Installation of outboard engine water pumps can be a bit tricky. Look for an instructional presentation that demonstrates the process in detail--and better if it is a factory-produced instructional presentation. If not done properly, a water pump problem can lead to more problems.

[jimh]

...[t]hinking of the [TotalScan] transducer, but I'm concerned about mounting location with the freshwater wash down intake's location and limited room with the trim tabs there.

Most readers will not have familiarity with the layout of the trim tabs and the other through-hull fittings on your transom. Post an image of the transom.

The TotalScan transducer is discussed in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. See

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=215

Generally the best advice about transducer installation and location comes from the manufacturer's instructions. The TotalScan is a very new transducer, and I do not expect any readers can offer first-hand advice about its installation. Since it is a side-scanning transducer, you will have to find a mounting location that won't have the engine gear case blocking the view to one side.

[jimh]

Congratulations on the 2003 Boston Whaler 220 DAUNTLESS. I have always liked that model. I think the lines are very good. The low freeboard scares some, but for water sport activity it probably makes it much easier to get aboard the boat from the water.

[jimh]

For more help with electrical problems in the 2003 Boston Whaler 220 DAUNTLESS, refer to the wiring diagram that is available from

http://whalerparts.com/

For your model the diagram is found at

http://whalerparts.com/Diagrams/2003/220%20Dauntless/PB22DNT13-Model.pdf

[Warpdrv]

Thanks Jim for that extremely detailed response for all the questions[.]

We own an auto service shop and all the technicans have boats, and been in and out of inboards and outboards of their own as well as many of our customers boats. The impeller isn't a huge deal, I was just looking mainly for a source to get the parts[.]

I did come across a post suggesting that there was a possibility that one could get upgraded guage and wire harness sets depending on the motor, clearly it is not a common thought to upgrade the Mercury dumbed-down ECU output[.] What a shame[.]

As far as the switches and breakers, the one breaker that is bad is something that I'll see if I can find an off-the-shelf replacement for now[.]

I was looking into having a custom panel made up with some of those new-styled re-settable switches with the circuit-breakers built into the switch. They look pretty nice [but] not cheap. I don't mind spending a few bucks on some upgrades since I don't have $100,000 invested in this new-to-me boat[.]


Again appreciate your help and suggestions. I'll keep doing my homework[.]

[jimh]

The panel you show above from TIDELINE has some nicely illuminated switches. Boston Whaler tends to go with high-function instead of high-style.

[jimh]

Re the Mercury-painted Yamaha F225: I don't think this engine has the usual Mercury engine controller. It probably has the standard Yamaha engine electrical components for spark generation and timing. One way to easily tell the Mercury-branded engines that are not actually made by Mercury is by their lack of Smartcraft instrumentation. Of course, that does not apply to classic c.1970 designs in two-stroke-power-cycle engines; they're Mercury but don't have Smartcraft, either.

[flymo]

As an owner of a slightly newer Yamaha F200, I can tell you that you don't have digital outputs from the motor, if it is a 2003 model year. Our F200 was built in early 2005 and Yamaha did not have digital outputs until somewhat later in the year - it's not that your motor is dumbed down for Mercury. However, our non-digital outboard does drive Yamaha-branded instruments (Tach and Speedo) which have LCD displays, if that is what you're looking for. You will note here these are described as being for 2004 and earlier motors only: http://www.simyamaha.com/category_s/1812.htm but the actual switchover date was a bit later.

In that vintage of motor, you'll need to be concerned about "dry exhaust corrosion" which was a problem with the Yamaha 3.3L V6s in 2004 and previous model years. I don't think there is anything preventative you can do, but my understanding is that it is an expensive repair if the problem occurs.

We have had extremely good luck with our 3.3L - nothing but routine maintenance and 11 years in, it still purrs.

Tim

[Warpdrv]

As an owner of a slightly newer Yamaha F200, I can tell you ...

Thanks for that info.

I did read about that dry exhaust [corrosion]. Hope [my engine does not] have any [problems]. Are digital [gauges] available for this engine?

I also reached out to a guy that was looking do that same with a pair of the same engine I have and linked me to a place where he was able to be successful in putting out the data with their help: digitalmarinegauges.com

I'm waiting to hear back from them.

[flymo]

To answer a couple of your other questions:

- SIM Yamaha [a dealer] as shown in that previous link is a good place to go for parts. It is a family operation and you may find yourself corresponding with Andy Munao, who knows his stuff. The manual indicates that after 500 hours you're supposed to check the valve clearance, and Andy indicated that he'd checked a lot of them, and never had to change any. We just had ours checked after 600 hours and had the same result.

- Our motor takes an NGK LFR5A-11 plug - I would be very surprised if yours is different.

[Warpdrv]

To answer a couple of your other questions...

Thanks flymo. Indeed I was able to reach out to [Andy at SIM Yamaha]. He linked me up to a Yamaha [gauge] that would work with my motor.

http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Tach_Ri ... -00sim.htm

[Commok]

I have a 2001 220 Dauntless, and ordered a new instrument panel from [what was later clarified to be Twin Cities Marine]. The cost was less than $200 and included all switches and circuit breakers--a deal in my opinion--and it is an exact replacement for my original panel.

I bought new FARIA gauges from Amazon, and now have a great looking panel--new and ready for another 20 years.

[jimh]

I was able to reach out to Andrew and he linked me up to a Yamaha [gauge] that would work with my motor.

I thought you were seeking a digital gauge. I believe the gauge you mention is just a conventional tachometer using the normal tachometer signal from the engine and then displaying the engine speed with a digital read out. These are not "digital" gauges in the sense that the engine does not provide the information for them digitally.

[Warpdrv]

Jim is correct. I'm still wading through the thought of what I am going to do. I know the engine doesn't put out digital. I was hoping I could somehow make this happen, but it doesn't seem likely or cheap. I was trying to utilize and combine guages that would take up less real estate on the panel, so I could add more or get a better layout for switches.

I might just go in the direction of replacing the analog gauges with Faria gauges as mentioned by Commok. I hope to get two gauges that will combine multiple gauge into one to save on space.. That Yamaha deal is pretty spendy, and, since I have winter here, I'll continue to explore my options.

[Warpdrv]

Looking for info on a Ski Pylon for this boat. I found the part number in the online manual is

http://bostonwhaler.com.s3.amazonaws.com/resources/220-Dauntless-Sterndeck-Acessory-Assembly-Sheet-1-of-3-2003.pdf

Part # 100-70327 for the Ski Pylon or 1734898--not sure what is the right number. Suggest places to find this. And is this the same one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swivl-Eze-Ski-Pylon-PN-P926A-/252695649172?hash=item3ad5d59b94:g:IpAAAOSw2xRYVc7O&vxp=mtr

Thanks--Patrick