CONTINUOUSWAVE

Hi all. [I am] new to the site and this is my first Boston Whaler, a 190 OUTRAGE with a VERADO 150. I

I want to add an extra battery using a PERKO-brand switch with OFF-1-BOTH-2 arrangement. I currently have a PERKO-brand switch with ON-OFF only. I do not want to [employ an automatic combiner relay or ACR]; I want just the four-position switch.

I believe [in some unidentified place and time someone responded with a recommendation to] run only the positive from one battery to #1 and the other positve to #2; everything else goes to commom, with exception to grounds. This way you can use one battery one day and then the other the next day.

Is this correct?

What [should be done] with the DTS wire that goes directly to the battery and the wire that is with the positve off the battery to the existing switch terminal?

Thank You,

Pete

I don't what you might have read, who told you, or where you read it, nor how correctly you drew your inference from whatever it was that was recommended.

I recommend the wiring I show in the article at

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... ttery.html

Schengi wrote:...what [should be done] with the DTS wire that goes directly to the battery...?

Loads that were connected directly to a battery and bypassed the primary power switch probably need to remain connected directly to a battery, assuming there was a mandate for direct connection; if there really were no mandate then connect to terminal C of the OFF-1-BOTH-2 switch.

Thanks Jim! Does it matter what battery the DTS wire gets hooked directly to?

I have no idea.

For your reference information.

Boston Whaler provided limited technical information (specs, diagrams, parts lists) for models on its website.

For whatever reason some model years of a boat do not have all diagrams even though there were no changes.

If you go to https://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat-ownership/resources/

Select YEAR 2008
Select FAMILY Outrage
Select Model 190 Outrage
Select Doc Type ALL

You will find the Diagram Smartcraft System view with DTS diagram showing the wiring

Schengi wrote:... I do not want to [employ an ACR]

I'm curious, why don't you want to use an ACR?

I installed the Blue Sea Systems Mini Add-A-Battery kit to my 2013 190 Outrage and I'm very happy with it.



I used the kit shown at:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/M ... _Kit_-_65A

Re the power required for the Mercury digital throttle and shift (DTS) controls: I suspect that generally the DTS should be powered from the same battery as the engine. This would be typical so that there cannot be any odd voltage differences between the engine and the DTS electronics.

If the DTS were wired directly to the battery, there is a reasonable basis to assume there was a purpose for that. On a boat with only one battery, the purpose of wiring the engine remote controls directly to the battery is hard to guess. Perhaps the feeling is the DTS must be supplied with the highest possible voltage from the battery, and feeding the DTS from a secondary power panel might be a risk of voltage drop. Or, perhaps, the fear is that the DTS must never lose power because then the engine would lose throttle and shift control, thus is must have no intervening circuitry like a secondary panel or other source of power.

The best way to deduce the purpose of the initial wiring of the DTS directly to the battery is to obtain the detailed installation instructions for the engine. If there is a mandate and a specific purpose for wiring DTS directly to the battery, the installation instructions should make that very clear.

You might also contact Boston Whaler customer support and ask them for a recommendation.

Jim,
Talked to the whaler dealer near me, and they told me that the DTS wire must go directly to the battery, for reasons that you have just mentioned.Thanks again for all your help.

Divin Ivan,
I originally wanted to go that route with the full size 120amp, but did not have the room. I looked at the mini but I believe it is only rated up to a 65 amp alternator. The alternator is a 70 amp. Are you running a verado 150? If you are and have not had any problems I think I will go back to my original plan. Thanks for your help! Thank You All

I don't have the Verado, I have the 150 EFI which has a 60 amp alternator. Did you test measure the 120 amp module to see if it fit? It's not much bigger than the mini and I think you will have enough room, look at the picture below, it looks to me like there is enough room to fit the slightly larger ACR module. Or you could just attach a mounting board to the location that way you can use more of the space on the right.

I had the 120 amp and acr, not enough room for sure. A mounting board would be the way to go for sure to make the job clean and accessible. Best option for the 120 amp set up. Thank You for your help.