1965 Nauset Trailer Replacement

[Fishdreamer]

What is the proper trailer for for my 1965 Nauset? She is 16-feet 7-inches and powered [with] a Suzuki 70.

I currently have a trailer [with] keel rollers and two bunks. It is rusting and in need of replacement. I would prefer to replace than to rebuild. Many thanks.

[ckovarik]

Fishdreamer,
I have the same need. If you find anything please let me know. I have been looking for a trailer specification or drawings but have yet to find any.

Thanks, Craig

[frontier]

EZ Loader galvanized bunk trailer model EZB 14-17 2000. We ordered ours with the factory swing tongue option. Excellent quality, price and service.

[rcrcr]

Reference the trailer section of this site here: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/

I went to a reputable trailer shop and and explained what I needed. Their rep was pushing the bunk support method but I was insistent on keel support with bunk secondary supports. I ended up with a refurbished trailer built to my specs, with less cost than a new one. For me a refurbished aluminum trailer was the best option, but compare prices in your area. I can measure if you need data.

-Rob

[Phil T]

Fish -

Trailers are regional. What state are you in?

[Fishdreamer]

Thanks for all your responses.

After pouring over the CW trailering guide and based on my boat I'm going with a Pacific Trailer full bunk built here on the west coast. I'm near San Francisco so it's a regional choice and recommend by my local BW dealer.

I'm confident enough based on the weight and size of my Nauset that I should be fine. If I had a larger heavier boat I might take the pains of finding a keel roller bunk combo similar to what I'm guessing came original with the boat.

BTW my Nauset still has the original gel coat, no bottom paint with very little crazing, a bump and a scuff here and there on the hull and few accessory holes that appear to be patched correctly meaning high and dry. It does not have the original console and seat. I'm looking to find those and bring her to full glory. The motor is a '03 Suzuki 70 with 400 hrs. My mechanic showed me the way to tell how many hrs by turning the key on but not starting and the tach will momentarily read the hours. In my case it stopped just under the 4000 mark. He also said there are no signs that the motor has seen much salt either and needless to say I'm happy with my purchased of this beauty.

Meanwhile I placed the order for the new trailer, expected to arrive in about a month. In the interim my existing trailer will get me where I need to go as the striped bass and halibut bite are in full swing here.

I asked Pacific Trailers if they would weld a couple of loops to the frame for attaching a hull tie down strap. They said they would do it but that it would compromise the galvanized finish so I decided to search out another solution as I would like to add the security of a hull strap just forward of the console at around the front cooler seat area of the bow. I don't want to drill and fasten a mount and compromise the unibody construction of the trailer frame. I read an open frame galvanized trailer will rust from the inside out!

Any ideas of a woven strap to loop or a clamp to bolt around the frame as to attach the tie down strap?

Many thx again for the support! Great community you have!

[Phil T]

With the bow strap, safety chain and two rear transom hold downs you do not need an additional hull strap.

Note the bow stop roller should be mounted so that the bow eye is touching the underside of the roller. The strap goes under the roller. This arrangement allows the roller to stop the bow eye riding up.

[Fishdreamer]

Thx Phil I ageee wholeheartedly and apreciate your comment regarding proper positioning of the bow eye to the winch roller and the use of safety chains. I'm confident I'll never loose connection to the trailer.

My need for the additional hull strap is to minimize bounce and dampen road vibration against the hull.