160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
User avatar
Todd
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:56 am

160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Mon May 22, 2017 9:53 am

IMG_1457.JPG
Console bracket
IMG_1457.JPG (42.07 KiB) Viewed 2711 times


Hello, I finally took delivery of my 2003 160 Dauntless having carefully (I thought) measured to make sure it would fit in my garage. Much to my dismay and my wife's ire, I realized the boat's center console bracket and windshield sit too high to fit in my garage. I removed both to get it in so I could work on her but taking down the bracket each time I use it will quickly become unrealistic (it took two of us about 20 minutes). With that background, does anyone have an idea for a way to remove the bracket without removing the 12 bolts? Maybe cutting the bracket and putting in a quick release mechanism of some type? I would guess I’m not the only guy who has made this mistake. Thanks for the guidance!

User avatar
Todd
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:56 am

Re: 16 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Mon May 22, 2017 11:02 am

I found a potential solution by cutting the railing and using a railing coupling, see link. Anyone used something like this? I am not sure what diameter the bracket is, but these come in 7/8 or 1" options. Thanks.

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Amar-Rail ... 91574.html

jimh
Posts: 7212
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:25 pm
Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
Contact:

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby jimh » Mon May 22, 2017 1:36 pm

Cutting the railing that extends around the windshield will cause another problem: reduced strength in that railing, which is likely to be an important hand-hold when operating the boat.

How much clearance must be gained?

Look at the trailer as a possible solution. I can see two options:

--reduce the tire and wheel size on the trailer; this should gain an inch or perhaps more,

--re-fit the axle to the trailer frame; you may be able to generally lower the trailer frame closer to the road surface by changing the way the axle is mounted or by changing to a torsion-spring axle.

Another option to consider if only the railing is causing the problem:

--completely remove the railing and its base attachment plates; store them for possible future use;

--locate a competent local canvas shop;

--have the canvas shop bend and fabricate a new railing that is similar to the original, but will be hinged at the base so it can swing out of the way;

--the new railing will have two secondary supports, one on each side, that will clamp it in place when in the normal position; the canvas shop fabricator will figure out how to do this so that only two screw fasteners on each side need to be removed to lower the railing.

See sketch below for an idea:
dauntlessRailing.jpg
dauntlessRailing.jpg (33.62 KiB) Viewed 2692 times

Jefecinco
Posts: 1015
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 6:35 pm
Location: Gulf Shores, AL

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Jefecinco » Tue May 23, 2017 8:39 am

Todd,

Have you tried pushing the boat into the garage with the tongue jack fully lowered? Partially deflating the tires may also help. Finally, you could consider replacing the trailer tires with a tire of less diameter.
Butch

User avatar
Todd
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:56 am

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Tue May 23, 2017 9:00 am

Hi all,

I had a engineer friend take a look at the bracket and suggest the most efficient solution knowing that the bracket will have to come off every time I put the boat back in the garage. He did some research and found a new product from White Water Marine that he thinks will work for my needs, it's a pair of stainless steel connectors (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=3707196) that he will place just above the higher bracket anchor. He believes the heavy duty connect will be sufficiently strong when supplemented by the solid center post the bracket has. It will require me to only loosen four allen screws and he will set up a wing nut under the console for the center post. I should be able to put it up and take it down in just a few minutes. He also is ordering wing screws for the windshield which will speed the process of removing it as well.

He looked at the suggestions you folks had and thought they were workable too, he just knows my novice level of mechanical expertise and said for me, keeping it simple as possible would be best. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the great advice!

Todd

User avatar
Phil T
Posts: 1145
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 6:08 pm
Location: Was Maine, now Kentucky
Contact:

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Phil T » Tue May 23, 2017 10:23 am

I have the same problem and we are not the first two.

For long term storage, I removed the windshield, removed 3 of the railing bolts and tilted it forward. While I read and saw a modification to an Outrage 190 adding quick release fittings to the console railing, I can't locate it.
Member since 2003
1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115

User avatar
Todd
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:56 am

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Tue May 30, 2017 9:18 am

Hello, I've got an update on my Dauntless railing concern. I enlisted the support of a friend who's an engineer and has the proper cutting tools and installed the stainless steel couplings on the two main rail supports just above where it bolts to the console. It seems just as sturdy as before and now takes only minutes to remove the bracket for storage in my garage. I still take the windshield down but that only takes a minute as well. See photos attached and thanks for the feedback.
Attachments
IMG_1482.JPG
IMG_1482.JPG (36.53 KiB) Viewed 2649 times
IMG_1481.JPG
IMG_1481.JPG (41.53 KiB) Viewed 2649 times

User avatar
Phil T
Posts: 1145
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 6:08 pm
Location: Was Maine, now Kentucky
Contact:

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Phil T » Tue May 30, 2017 9:37 am

Todd -

What actually holds the rail parts together? Is the coupling a friction device that you tighten/loosen?

How much overlap is there?

Is the modification straightforward? Hard to do?

Can you pull the rail and take a photo of the connector?
Member since 2003
1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115

User avatar
Todd
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:56 am

Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Tue May 30, 2017 10:06 am

There are four allen screws in each 3" coupling, the railing meets in the middle of the coupling so two screws tighten on about 1.5" of railing on each side of the cut. I fixed the bottom two and loosen the top two to remove the railing on each side. There is a center railing as well but I didn't cut that and now use a wing nut to speed the removal. I was pleased that it seems just as secure as it did before and saves me 30 minutes of sweating inside the center console to unbolt the railing. Below is the a good picture of the coupling, it comes in 1" and 7/8" sizes. It is definitely heavy duty and solid.

I would say the modification was pretty simple. Cutting 1" stainless was done with a high quality hack saw my friend owns. He was going to use a power tool to make the cut but said it would heat up the stainless and discolor it. He taped off the spot he cut and once cut rounded the sharp edges of the tubing with a file. Start to finish if took about 20 minutes. The time consuming part was bolting the bracket back on in the hot, confined space of the center console, I hope to NEVER do that again. Thanks.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=3707196