CONTINUOUSWAVE

Hello all. I'm about to be the proud owner of a 1983 SPORT 13. The first order of business for us is shade. I've searched the forum, and have found some great info on top brands, size, and configuration, but I was curious to get some guidance about the mounting of hardware into the gunwales themselves.

I found a document in the reference section that advises using well nuts, but I've also seen reports of people just drilling straight into the gunwale with self-tapping screws. My own idea was to over-drill the installation area, and pour in a plug of epoxy and glass fibers creating a fiberglass anchor.\

What method have people used successfully to create a durable and long-lasting hardware mount?

Does anyone know what sort of mounting the factory used on those boats that came with a Bimini top from the factory?

I tried looking for a wood-locator diagram to see if there would be any wood backing on the gunwale, but it didn't look like there was on the diagram from 1971, which I assume would be the most accurate, although there is on the 1997 diagram.

Thanks in advance for the help, and I look forward to being a member of the community!

-Pete

Do you have the stainless side rails? I have a 15 footer with the rails. I wanted to avoid screwing into the hull so I used stainless rail clamps to mount the Bimini top tubing to the rails. As a plus, that gave me some extra height and it gives you some mounting location flexibility .

No, no side rails for me. That would make it easier for sure.

Any other ideas for direct mounting into the hull?

I'd also like to know what is the best way to anchor other hardware into the hull? Some screws mounting my seat frames have pulled out a little bit, so I wanted to re-mount them with a solid base. I was planning to overdrill and place an epoxy plug and mount into this.

Pete -

I've used both procedures you've suggested with good results. When mounting my console, I not only overdrilled, but with a bent nail inserted into a cordless drill, carved out a small cavity in the foam. Blew out the residue and poured in epoxy, neat, level to the top. I'd recommend using a slow curing epoxy.

Regards - Don

If you don't have any epoxy, you can use Gorilla Glue. Tape off the area and fill only halfway. It expands as it cures. Trim excess.
Many call this the "hockey puck" technique.

Interesting, I like the idea of reaming some of the foam out before putting in epoxy.

Did you add glass fibers or any other filler to your resin?

Also, did you drill in with wood screws, or a finer-thread machine type screw? I'd be afraid the coarse thread of the wood screw may crack the dried epoxy.

An allen wrench works well for coring out a "hard point" in the foam that can be filled with epoxy. I would recommend adding microbaloons to the epoxy so the screw has a bit of a place to give. I've had straight epoxy crack when the screw was installed. Cotton flock also works.

jeopardy954 wrote:I found a document in the reference section that advises using well nuts...

Please mention the URL of the document you make reference to. I don't recall this document.

I'd also recommend to use slide mounts versus fixed.
......

jimh--[Reference to well nuts] is on a Boston Whaler drawing:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... ails13.pdf

Makes me think that was maybe the factory's method of mounting.

Thanks for pointing that out. I had not noticed that note on the drawing and the detail box. Yes, it looks like use of a well nut to secure the canvas frame hinge fittings to the gunwale of certain 13-foot models was the Boston Whaler factory method.

I've enjoyed using this web site for so long I can no longer remember when it all started. We bought our first Boston Whaler when I was using a wheel chair in 1999. The boat was a new Dauntless 16. I probably "discovered" Continuous Wave around that year.

I continue to be surprised at the wealth of knowledge available on the site. Where else would you find an old detailed pen and ink drawing from Boston Whaler applicable to classic Boston Whalers? That's truly amazing!

I installed the well nuts when I installed the Mills Canvas suntop to our 1987 13 Super Sport. They came with the top directly from Wells. Never had a problem with them, they held just fine. Sold the boat to my neighbor, still holding strong.

I am doing the same thing on a 2004 130 Sport. Call Whaler at 877-294-5645 and tell them what you need. They sent me a PDF drawing with locations of backing materiel molded into the fiberglass. You will need your hull number to get the exact drawing for your year.

For newer Boston Whaler boats, a call to request a wood locating diagram may not be be necessary. The Boston Whaler website generally has drawings available for all their recent models, showing many details of their construction. You can find these drawings and download them yourself. They are available under the "Owner's Resources" section of the website.