CONTINUOUSWAVE

Just bought [what was believed to be] my first Boston Whaler, [a c.1970 13-footer]. Unfortunately it's far from seaworthy.

I'm retired, though I don't have nearly enough time to take on a project like this--but here goes. My goal is to have it repaired by next summer.

[The c.1970 13-foot boat] hasn't been in the water since 2004, and it certainly hasn't been covered. I'm guessing that it's a 1970 by the old registration from DMV I found. There isn't an indentification tag or any other markings on the boat. Rumor has it that it leaked badly when it was last afloat. I have new tires coming tomorrow for the trailer---thank you Amazon--so with any luck I'll have it pulled out of the bushes by Wednesday.

Any information or insights will certainly be appreciated. First time on a forum, so pictures may be awhile.

[What is] the approximate empty weight of a c.1970 13-foot hull?

I'd really like to pick it up by the front cleat and rings to wash it out, not to mention it would be easier to sand or strip. The paint on the outside is chipping off down to the fiberglass. Instead of sanding I'm now considering using a paint stripper.

[What are your] thoughts?

MET

It sounds like the gel coat is blistered bad on the bottom if it is chipping off. I would sand off the gel coat in the bad areas and then use a marine filler to fill any minor imperfections. If the moisture level in the hull is ok, you could then apply a barrier coat and then paint.

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/13/

You can make an inference about the year of production of your older 13-foot Boston Whaler boat by assessing the cockpit features and the chine lines. Read more about the hull's evolution in the REFERENCE section, where you will find several articles about the 13-foot hull, beginning with this one:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/13/

The published weights for the boat in various models and epochs is given in the article. Changes to the hull shape and cockpit are also noted in a time line of evolution.

Boston Whaler boats of this era were never painted. If your boat has paint "chipping off" then someone has applied a top coat of paint to the fiberglass and gel coat layers.

If the boat has been neglected for a long time and left exposed to the sun and the weather, the gel coat layer condition may have deteriorated to the point that it is not possible to restore it.

Appreciate the information.

At first, I was sure the boat was a Whaler 'knock-off'' made on the west coast. Now I'm leaning towards an original Boston whaler. I sent BW customer service an inquiry on the HIN from DMV, but have not heard back. This is where I got the year from. WAZ525481970 Can you tell me if this Hull# is similar to a Boston Whaler number?

Also, the registration indicates a body style of 'POGPR13'. I had just started to investigate whether this was a Boston whaler style number when my calendar-reminder told me "Anniversary".

So ends the research.

MET

WAZ may be the manufacturer's MIC.

http://www.uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification.php
......

If the boat has a federal HIN that begins with WAZ it was manufactured by

WATER VENTURES
3192 ALCALDE DRIVE, SUITE G
LAGUNA HILLS CA

The boat could not possibly be a Boston Whaler boat with a HIN like that.

But the HIN does not parse properly. It cannot end "1970". Please verify the HIN again.

The only document that I have is a 1994 registration with the Washington State DMV which shows '1970 BOSTONW POGPR13 WAZ5254B1970". The only other identifying mark is a Boston Whale decal/in-print that has been painted over near the stern.

I've stated to clean it out and found 2 patches that may need to be redone. One is by the right oar lock and the other is on the keel where there was trailer damage. I'm hoping some pictures may help determine more details about this boat.

I think you have a boat that once had a state registration number. I interpret your cited number "WAZ5254B" as reading more like:

--WA Z525 4B, or perhaps

--WA 2525 AB.

These would be typical state-issued boat registration numbers and would be affixed to the hull near the bow on the hullside. The "1970" was probably the year the registration.was valid or when it expired.

MET--I have a 1970 13-footer that I'm finishing now. I picked up this boat last September. Perhaps this will be some inspiration. Plan on double to work and double the costs of your initial estimates.

If you can get the stenciled number from the inside of the transom, contact customer relations at Whaler and they will provide the history on the boat.

I've now cleaned the boat up to the point that it's east to see the previous repairs. Some may stay.

With more research i now will call it a 1980 13 foot. From the reference section;

c.1980 steering wheel changed to six-spoke stainless steel; wire rope and pulley steering replaced with cable steering

This boat has the 6-spoke steering wheel, but still has wire rope system. Anyone know when it went out of production?

MET--it is quite simple to change the steering wheel, so you cannot really use the six-spoke destroyer wheel as an absolute indicator of c.1980 manufacture.

Your 13-footer cannot be a c.1980 boat because it has the deep splashwell. A c.1980 boat would have the smaller sink-type splash well. Your boat must be pre-1971, based on the splashwell. But your boat also appears to have a 20-inch transom height. Inspect the transom area closely to see if it has been modified after original production. I don't think Boston Whaler made boats with the deep splash well and a 20-inch transom, and I suspect that perhaps the transom was modified by a previous owner.

ZEIMER--since your very nicely restored 13-footer has the original STENCIL NUMBER (2A2417) preserved, you can know its date of manufacture with more precision by using the table of Stencil Numbers in the REFERENCE section article on 13-foot hulls. According to that table, your boat was manufactured in 1970. See

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/13/

Perhaps you can tell us more about the work you performed in the restoration of this boat. What material did you use as a topcoat to the original blue gelcoat of the hull?

jimh wrote:ZEIMER--since your very nicely restored 13-footer has the original STENCIL NUMBER (2A2417) preserved, you can know its date of manufacture with more precision by using the table of Stencil Numbers in the REFERENCE section article on 13-foot hulls. According to that table, your boat was manufactured in 1970. See

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/13/

Perhaps you can tell us more about the work you performed in the restoration of this boat. What material did you use as a topcoat to the original blue gelcoat of the hull?

Thank you! I actually emailed Chuck Bennett at the factory yesterday and he let me know that it was built out of the Rockland, MA plant and was sold to a dealer in Jersey in March of 1970. It's a Sport model and had the optional light package.

I used the Tuff Coat product on the inside of mine and it came out great. Covered the crazing we had quite well and hopefully it will hold up well. It was fairly inexpensive and easy to apply. We just finished the resto a couple weeks back and had it out for the first time last weekend.

Here's a link to all the work:
https://www.facebook.com/jziemer/media_ ... 293&type=3

In my previous post to MET, I wanted to show the location of where the stencil would be on MET's boat since [MET's boat] appears to close to the same year as mine. And then provide a little motivation.

ZIE'--your restored 13 looks great. Thanks for the additional details on your methods. And that older Mercury engine looks very appropriate for the boat and its 1970's vintage.

jimh wrote:ZIE'--your restored 13 looks great. Thanks for the additional details on your methods. And that older Mercury engine looks very appropriate for the boat and its 1970's vintage.

Thanks Jim! The motor was with the boat when I bought it, and it appears to be the original motor as it's also a 1970. Can't believe how well it runs. I went through the electronics, new fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Starts first crank now. Not bad for almost 50 years old.

ziemer wrote:Here's a link to all the work:
https://www.facebook.com/jziemer/media_ ... 293&type=3

Just checked out your restoration photos on Facebook.

Can you tell me more about the TuffCoat you put on the inside color used http://tuffcoatmarine.com/color-chart/ and the application technique?

Which paint did you use for the bottom? Links would help, Thanks!

I used the Key West Sand and got it right from Amazon. Used just under two gallons for the inside.

To apply I bought a cheap drywall mud hopper gun from harbor freight with the smallest orifice nozzle and played with pressure. Followed the instructions from Tuff Coat.

Outside was done with Total Boat single stage from Jamestown Distributors.

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016WP9G ... _pop_mb_pd

ziemer wrote:Outside was done with Total Boat single stage from Jamestown Distributors.

Still having a little trouble understanding which paint to use on the bottom. Would you mind [posting] a link?

I used the Wet Edge. Easy to use. Thin it and spray.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/m ... side+Paint