CONTINUOUSWAVE

When I purchased my used 1989 15 Super Sport Limited it had nothing securing the hatch for the bow anchor locker. The only indication that there ever was any sort of attachment for [the bow anchor locker hatch] is the standard U-clips that generally have a bungee cord through them. I installed a nice, tight bungee cord, but the hatch still slides back and forth.

What needs to be done to properly secure the anchor locker hatch?

Thank you--Drewread

Just get some self adhesive stick on Velcro 4 inch by 2 inch strips at your local Wal Mart for a couple of bucks for a packet of 3 sets. Work great and no drilling.

Just another little tip, I also use these on the bottom of my cooler to keep it from sliding around and again no holes need to be drilled. 1 strip in each corner keeps my cooler full of walleye and ice secure.

Is the locker hinged in the front? Not sure what you mean sliding around. I have a 15' Super Sport Limited 1990 model and it hinges in the front, never had a problem with it moving around.

No hinges, no unfilled holes.. Hence my confusion as to the attachment method. :)

Anyone have a photo of the hinge location? Is that the factory location?

Tie a knot or two in the bungee cord to shorten it and thus provide more tension/holding power.

It doesn't pop up, the new bungee is as tight as I could tie it.

The hatch slides astern, there is nothing to stop it from doing so except the angled underside of the hatch. I will post a photo this weekend..

I would make a stop out of Mahogany or whatever the hatch is made of. It would only need to be an inch square and several inches long. Then screw it on to the underside of the hatch. Position it so it nudges the rear bulkhead. That should keep the hatch in place unless you hit a big wake or something. You could also use a stainless steel or aluminum angle bracket but wood is softer on the gelcoat.

This is a Super Sport Limited.. There is no wood. The lid is fiberglass.

It will still work. Do you know if the fiberglass is solid plastic- or wood covered in plastic? You can use wood and "glue" it to the fiberglass with some resin. Scuff the attachment point so it will have some "tooth". Or you can screw it on. Or use a stainless angle bracket and screw into the hatch. Just be patient and drill into the fiberglass carefully. You want to make the pilot holes big enough so the screws don't crack the plastic. You could even make some sort of stop by screwing a stainless plate to the rear bulkhead surface that stuck up even with the hatch. But that may become a trip hazard so I'm suggesting staying on the inside surface of the hatch area for safety and esthetic reasons.

Or how about this: Drill a couple of holes right though the hatch just at the inside face of the bulkhead with about a foot between them. Get a couple of stainless steel pins with pan heads that are as long as the hatch is thick plus an inch. Glass the pins solidly into the hatch. Position them so they just contact the bulkhead and hold the hatch in place- problem solved.

Yes, there are a million ways to make this work. I'm wondering how it was supposed to work originally ;)

Thanks for the suggestions though.

As Whal has already suggested, self adhesive Velcro strips, 4" long, has worked for me for many years.

Add a small piece of wood to the underside to prevent it sliding aft. Velcro is a useful stop gap solution but will not last as long as a piece of wood. When it start to peel, and it will, it can be messy.

Drewread
Did you ever come up with a solution
Would be happy to send you a picture of my 15' SS LTD

JOE

Yes, a pair of hinges has made this substantially safer to walk on.