Rigid Raider 19 Modifications and Rebuild
Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:09 pm
Hello all. I just acquired a stock 1989 Rigid Raider 19 after it sat out in a field for 18 years--tearful.
For those unfamiliar, she this 1989 Rigid Raider 19 has twin OMC 70 two-stroke-power-cycle engine strokes with electric trim, hydraulic steering, hull-mounted fuel filters, four huge inboard [lifting points], a raised flat deck with zero storage, and (what I believe is) a 56-gallon fuel tank.
This hull was designed for one purpose only, and it was NOT sunsets with a lounging vixen and an exotic assortment of cheeses and wines.
Before even considering any restoration and because she'd been out to pasture since big-hair days, I [removed] the fuel tank and dug a few test sites down to the hull checking for water intrusion. Fortunately, minimal moisture was found, and the tank and structural foam--from what I can tell--are good. I am preparing to heal the foam and glass, and I'm sending the tank to a radiator shop to air test and clean.
The deck was designed for eight marines seated forward of the stern-favored console. I intend to use her for offshore fishing and crabbing. I'd like to relocate the console forward of stock position about four feet. I want to open the aft console deck area, and I hope moving the console, batteries, oil mixing tank ,and [helmsman] forward may help prevent the hull from riding at 80-degrees when the bow is empty.
I have a few other modifications in mind to get her more functional and family friendly.
Though I have a decent amount of experience commercial fishing in small craft off Kodiak, the most work I’ve ever done to a boat is etching my name in the deck after losing a hard night's catch at the bar, so I welcome any input on this adventure.
Is there a rule of thumb for the console position on this hull?
Loosely I’m matching the console layout of an Outrage 19, although the hull design and weights of the two models are altogether different. The Raider has a massive fiberglass keel, very thick hull, and a huge bulkhead of foam in the bow which probably helps keep the bow down. I guess that at commercial specification the boat trimmed fine without troops, but still seems prudent to move the [helmsman] closer to or forward center. Any advice on relocation of console is appreciated.
The stock rigging ran top deck under a 24-inch wire-mold between a stern well drain hole and the console. I’d like to run all that spaghetti under the tank cover through 1.5” PVC if possible, thinking a 45 bend on each end with a small drain inside to get water from the PVC pipe to the sub deck drain trough. At the stern well side it would likely need two 45deg bends at opposite positions to properly feed rigging back to motors. Does anyone know max bend radius of throttle cables?
There are three 4-inch diameter hull drains in the transom that all had one-way flappers on them back in the day. Hogs ate em. The only thing I've found as possible replacements are exhaust flappers. Any suggestions or advice with replacing these?
I'm considering the installation of a bow pulpit to keep the anchor outside the hull, no bow storage. Can anyone suggest a good retrofit model?
I will eventually install a Bow Rail. I have access to a lot of 1-1/4-inch 6360T6 aluminum tubing. Any [advice on] bow rail fabrication. On the advantages of particular material types?
Thank you--Abe
For those unfamiliar, she this 1989 Rigid Raider 19 has twin OMC 70 two-stroke-power-cycle engine strokes with electric trim, hydraulic steering, hull-mounted fuel filters, four huge inboard [lifting points], a raised flat deck with zero storage, and (what I believe is) a 56-gallon fuel tank.
This hull was designed for one purpose only, and it was NOT sunsets with a lounging vixen and an exotic assortment of cheeses and wines.
Before even considering any restoration and because she'd been out to pasture since big-hair days, I [removed] the fuel tank and dug a few test sites down to the hull checking for water intrusion. Fortunately, minimal moisture was found, and the tank and structural foam--from what I can tell--are good. I am preparing to heal the foam and glass, and I'm sending the tank to a radiator shop to air test and clean.
The deck was designed for eight marines seated forward of the stern-favored console. I intend to use her for offshore fishing and crabbing. I'd like to relocate the console forward of stock position about four feet. I want to open the aft console deck area, and I hope moving the console, batteries, oil mixing tank ,and [helmsman] forward may help prevent the hull from riding at 80-degrees when the bow is empty.
I have a few other modifications in mind to get her more functional and family friendly.
Though I have a decent amount of experience commercial fishing in small craft off Kodiak, the most work I’ve ever done to a boat is etching my name in the deck after losing a hard night's catch at the bar, so I welcome any input on this adventure.
Is there a rule of thumb for the console position on this hull?
Loosely I’m matching the console layout of an Outrage 19, although the hull design and weights of the two models are altogether different. The Raider has a massive fiberglass keel, very thick hull, and a huge bulkhead of foam in the bow which probably helps keep the bow down. I guess that at commercial specification the boat trimmed fine without troops, but still seems prudent to move the [helmsman] closer to or forward center. Any advice on relocation of console is appreciated.
The stock rigging ran top deck under a 24-inch wire-mold between a stern well drain hole and the console. I’d like to run all that spaghetti under the tank cover through 1.5” PVC if possible, thinking a 45 bend on each end with a small drain inside to get water from the PVC pipe to the sub deck drain trough. At the stern well side it would likely need two 45deg bends at opposite positions to properly feed rigging back to motors. Does anyone know max bend radius of throttle cables?
There are three 4-inch diameter hull drains in the transom that all had one-way flappers on them back in the day. Hogs ate em. The only thing I've found as possible replacements are exhaust flappers. Any suggestions or advice with replacing these?
I'm considering the installation of a bow pulpit to keep the anchor outside the hull, no bow storage. Can anyone suggest a good retrofit model?
I will eventually install a Bow Rail. I have access to a lot of 1-1/4-inch 6360T6 aluminum tubing. Any [advice on] bow rail fabrication. On the advantages of particular material types?
Thank you--Abe