Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
jackjax
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Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jackjax » Sat Dec 26, 2015 10:26 am

[Please give advice on how] to fix this [this small area of damage on a 1997 Boston Whaler Dauntless seen in this linked image]. [The damaged area has dimensions of] about 2-inches long and 1/2-inch wide. [The depth of the damage is] not deep. Just the fiberglass [is] damaged, it seems. I see some kind of foam, too. Thanks
Jude
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jimh » Sat Dec 26, 2015 10:43 am

Please read the following three articles to get advice on how to make a repair to your Boston Whaler boat hull:

--Repairing Hull Damage the Whaler Way

--Instructions, Hull Patch Kits

--The Epoxy Cure

These three articles contain a great deal of expert advice, excellent illustrations, and first-hand accounts of repairs to the hull of a Boston Whaler boat. This information will be useful to your if you want to undertake the repair of this minor hull damage yourself.

Questions seeking advice on how to repair damage to the hull of a Boston Whaler boat are frequently asked questions. Answers to frequently asked questions have been prepared in an article called the FAQ. A good place to start when looking for advice is to read the FAQ.

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jackjax » Sat Dec 26, 2015 2:19 pm

Thanks! And will do check FAQ from now on.
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Binkster » Sat Dec 26, 2015 2:55 pm

Instead of using a brush to lay on the gel coat, that's a big no-no, or even the sprayer, I use a 4-inch hard-foam roller, with bull nose ends (to avoid roller tracks), sold at Lowe's or Home Depot. That way you don't have to thin the gel coat as much, and it leaves a smooth finish except for for some orange peel, that can be sanded out. Then I start block sanding with 500, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000 wet or dry paper or Abralon sanding pads, used wet. The sanding actually goes pretty fast, and when you finish with the 4000 grit you should be able to se your reflection in the gel coat. The pads are sold in fiberglass supply stores, auto paint supply stores, online, or even at bowling pro shops--they are used to change the surface of bowling balls for different lane conditions.

After applying the mat and wetting it out it should be rolled with a special ridged metal roller to smooth the mat down and remove air bubbles.

rich

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Binkster » Sat Dec 26, 2015 3:13 pm

Two other important things I just though of, is make sure you grind back the old gel coat far enough, so that the mat doesn't cover it. It will not stick to gel coat. Some folks will insist on using epoxy for a repair, such as then one shown by [Taylor] Clark because epoxy is stronger than polyester resin, but, when you get to the part where you grind down the repair to match the existing hull and the epoxy, being a much harder surface, it will be next to impossible to bring the epoxy and the polyester surface to the same level, so now you have to cover the surface with bondo and grind and sand that smooth. More work for no improved durability. rich

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby John B » Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:58 pm

Or...you could pay a well recommended pro to do it. It will end up costing you the same amount of money after you buy all the supplies, correct color gel coat and TIME! I learned a while ago that unless you have prior experience, a pro will make your damage disappear and yours may look bad after all the money and time spent. Just my personal recommendation. I still do the small nicks, but leave the larger problems to the pro's.
Last edited by John B on Mon Dec 28, 2015 12:59 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby macfam » Sun Dec 27, 2015 8:32 am

John B raises a good point.
Buying supplies, your personal skill level, the final result and TIME all enter into the equation.
On two different occasions, I've opted for the professional repair.

Nauset Marine in Orleans on Cape Cod is a longtime large Boston Whaler dealer. The hull repair work is nothing short of exceptional!
Both repair jobs on two different hulls were repaired so well, it was impossible to tell where the old damage was.
WELL WORTH THE PRICE.
It's an option.

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Binkster » Sun Dec 27, 2015 1:19 pm

There is a lot of personal satisfaction and pride in doing things for yourself as well as the best pro. If you are a complete novice you better start on the small stuff. Some people are too busy, and other folks don't like to get their hands dirty, Others don't have the self confidence to even think about learning, That's where the pro's come in. Actually, it does take a lot of time just to get the experience.

rich

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Jeff » Sun Dec 27, 2015 2:08 pm

There is no reason to take your boat to a professional to fix that minor damage. A professional will charge you $500-$750 to fix something you can repair for $50-$75 and a few hours of your time.

If you had a brand new boat and wanted to make the repair look like NOTHING every happened, then maybe you would consider taking it in. But lets be honest. You have an almost 20 year old boat and I really doubt this is the only blemish on the hull. Which is no big deal. No boat is perfect if it has been used.

Even if this is you first gel-coat repair it should be no big deal for you. Especially since you have Pure White Post Classic gelcoat on your boat. So any off-the-shelf white gelcoat repair kit will do you just fine. If should get you within 5%-10% of your color which is unnoticeable to pretty much everyone. Likely someone would have to search really hard to find that repair.

Here is an easy step by step of what you need to do...this is how I fixed a similar small knick in my Grady White. There will be multiple postings so I can attache all the images.
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Base layer needed if foam is exposed:
Step #1
If foam is exposed, you might need to an initial layer of resin and chopped mat or cab-o-sil to close and seal up the damage. To fix that you will want to mix up some resin, tape the area off and with the end of a paint brush dab it over the area to work it into all the nooks.

Step #2
While that area is wetted, work some chopped glass material over the area and do a final layer of resin over that. It does not have to look pretty.

Step #3
Once cured, with 60-150 grit paper, smooth out the area and prep it for gel coat filling.


Finish layer of Gel Coat
Step #1:
Use 150 Grit sand paper to rough up the area of damage and just about 1/2" of the surrounding gelcoat. Wipe that clean with lacquer thinner once done.
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Last edited by Jeff on Sun Dec 27, 2015 3:01 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Jeff » Sun Dec 27, 2015 2:11 pm

Step 2:
Mix your gelcoat patch.
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If you need to extend the material I would recommend using Evercoat Gelcoat Paste. It is a clear product and takes color really easily. Here is a large batch that I mixed together to fill a bunch of scrapes on my Newport.
gelcoat.jpg
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gelcoatmix.jpg
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Last edited by Jeff on Sun Dec 27, 2015 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1993 23 Walkaround Whaler Drive - 1988 190 Grady White Tournament- 1981 15' Striper (under restsoration) - Curator of Everything Boston Whaler on Instagram

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Jeff » Sun Dec 27, 2015 2:22 pm

Step 3:
Now you need to fill your damage. For me I like to use a small detail paint brush to work the material all the way into every little nook. Once that base is done I then fill the area with more material until it seems the area is just a little over filled.
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Because in your area of damage you have compound curves and because gravity is going to be working against you, I highly recommend using Chuck Tribolet's packing tape trick. I think because you are working on the underside I would lay a row or two of clear packing tape under the area you are going to be filling. Only Attach the bottom 1/4 edge of the tape and let the top 3/4 hang, or pull it back and use a tab of tape to hold it in place.

You will need this because as soon as the material is fully in there, you are going to want to quickly take that tape and wrap it over the compound surfaces. This trick will help to form and mold your repair to match the contours of the hull as well as hold it in place to let it cure.
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Step #4
Once cured, you can remove the tape (it releases right off the new patch) and clean the area with lacquer thinner. If there are any major voids or low spots, you can go back and do the same process to get the material built up to level.
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Step #5
Once you have it filled, lightly wet sand the repair with 220 to smooth it out, then 600->800 grit. Finish by polishing the area with compound and wax.

Step #6
Use all that money to saved to fill your tank with gas and enjoy the boat..
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby John B » Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:05 am

Get a few quotes. If any of the gel coat specialists charge you $500 - $750, remember who they are and never call them back. It's a $200 job for a pro. If you are inclined for your first time, Jeff provided you with great instructions to do it on your own. Just don't forget to wetsand, buff, and polish!
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jimh » Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:54 am

In any work done by an amateur there is always the possibility that the finished work will be inferior to work done by professionals, but that outcome is not always certain. I have seen many works crafted by amateurs that surpass professional standards, but, of course, those amateur craftsmen happened to be extraordinary skilled craftsmen, they just did not make that craft their profession.

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jimh » Mon Dec 28, 2015 9:04 am

Richard's remarks (user name BINKSTER) regarding the relative hardness of recently cured epoxy resin compared to 20 to 50-year-old polyester resin are appropriate to this discussion, but I would like to expand the topic. In making repairs with epoxy resin, the 100-percent resin layer is not at the surface. The unmodified epoxy resin is used to wet the repair and any fabric materials. The upper layers of the repair are usually made with epoxy that has been mixed with fillers. The more filler in the mixture the more easily the mixture can be sanded and faired to the surrounding areas. Fillers are available in different hardness, too. Use a soft filler for the surface layers of repairs. Use the high-strength fillers for making fillets and other gap filling where strength is needed.

Old polyester resin that was first laid-up more than 20-years ago does tend to be rather soft; it can very easily be removed by abrasion. When new and old areas of resin adjoin in a repair, one must always be aware of the possibility that the old resin layers will be abraded away much faster than the new areas, and the technique of sanding and fairing the repair area into the rest of the hull should take this into account. Sanding by hand or finger pressure can result in the repair area standing out from the rest of the hull. Use a sanding block where possible to minimize the variation in the sanded surface.

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jackjax » Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:29 pm

First off thanks mods for modifying my thread. Temporarily I patched it with marine epoxy. And will surely try doing it myself for now. Great advice! Thanks
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Jeff » Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 am

Jack,

If you already temporarily patched it, you will just need to smooth the patch out, rough up the surface and gel-coat patch over the top of it.
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 30, 2015 10:24 am

Jeff--in your demonstration (above) you covered the gel coat resin with packing tape to hold the resin in place against the effects of gravity. That also covers the resin and prevents air getting to the resin. In my experience with polyester resin, it won't cure properly if exposed to air. How to you handle the curing of polyester resin in regard to exposure to air?

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Jeff » Wed Dec 30, 2015 10:35 am

Jim, I have never had a problem with that. The air is not what causes or activates curing. It is a chemical reaction. Look at all the boat companies that are now vacuum bagging complete hulls in air tight sealed molds with zero atmosphere (no air).
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby jimh » Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:32 pm

Jeff--yes, vacuum bagging removes the air, which is what is needed to get polyester resins to cure completey. I was curious what methods you used to get the gel coat resins to cure to a hard finish. In the past I have top-coated them with polyvinyl-alcohol (PVA). What method do you use to keep air away from the polyester gel coat resin so that it will cure to a hard finish.

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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby Jeff » Thu Dec 31, 2015 2:31 pm

Jim--I only keep the tape on for a short time. When the gel-coat or resin begins to kick-off and firms up there is no need for the tape because the material will hold in place after that point.
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Re: Repairing Boston Whaler Hull Damage

Postby ConB » Thu Dec 31, 2015 4:36 pm

The PVA "[tricks] the gel coat into thinking it is in a mold." That is what an old time fiber glass guy told me. The old guy breathed too many fumes and is no longer with us. If memory serves, before PVA we used to spray wax over gel coat to keep the air off it or put a piece of wax paper over it.

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