SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
arcadiainc
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 7:40 pm

SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby arcadiainc » Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:56 pm

My [Boston Whaler SUPER SPORT 13 boat] is in poor condition. In my head, I have solved most problems. One remains. The checkered pattern on the floor is badly damaged. Previous owners had fiberglassed two pedestal seats in the floor.

What am I to do?

Paint the floor with sand added?

The SS is an old one. I have not found any ID numbers. The transom has three handholds molded in place. Thank for any advice.

jimh
Posts: 11673
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:25 pm
Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
Contact:

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby jimh » Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:16 am

The "checkered pattern on the floor" is known as a non-skid deck.

Repair of the non-skid deck area is difficult. Small areas of damage can be repaired and the non-skid pattern duplicated by using a non-damaged area of the non-skid deck to create a mold pattern. A suitable mold material, usually some sort of liquid that cures to a flexible solid, is applied to a small area of the non-skid deck. The pattern of the non-skid deck is cast into the mold.

During repair, the mold is aligned with the non-damaged area and then pressed into the repair area while the resin is still curing. The resin then takes on the pattern of the mold. When the resin cures, the mold can be peeled off the repair area.

I don't have first-hand experience with this technique, but it has been described by a few practitioners in the archive of this website. The use of a pattern is typically limited to very small repair areas, perhaps about 2-inch by 2-inch. I do not believe the technique would be workable for larger areas. See

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/007368.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014099.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005215.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/003365.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/012233.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001237.html

If the entire non-skid deck area need to be completely repaired, another approach will be needed. The use of paint and some abrasive fillers is a common method that has been used.

dtmackey
Posts: 760
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:29 pm

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby dtmackey » Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:25 am

As Jim said, there's repair of the current non-skid, but I've only seen success with small areas and the larger the area the more difficult it is to "wet out" the new gelcoat and roll the non-skid template on for an even pattern. This reason alone made me go a different route when I did my 13-footer nine years ago.

I ground down all the non-skid and filled in that useless channel around the non-skid pattern. Then I masked-off the area and sprayed Awlgrip, I used the salt-shaker method for adding the non-skid. And then two to three layers of paint to lock the added material in place. The applicator was nothing more than a small peanut can with holes punched in the metal bottom.

Image

That is the pic when I did it, but nine years later and it still looks great and offers an enhanced non-skid property over the Whaler pattern.

Here's a couple other projects (non-Whaler) where I used the same technique.

Image
Image

The current 15 SuperSport I'm restoring has bad crazing all over and in the non-skid which cannot be saved. I'll be using the same process and still deciding if I will go with one solid color or two tone like my 13.

D-

krenzi
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2017 1:55 am

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby krenzi » Wed Dec 27, 2017 2:01 am

DT--That looks fantastic. I love that you got rid of that channel.

This is the exact concern I have on my 1969. I gotta fix a soft spot and was wondering how that non-kid would look compared to the repair. I have about a square-foot area that I need to repair.

Do you mind telling me just how you "ground down" the non-skid?

Did you just sand the hell out of it or did you actually grind it?

Just curious about your entire method.

Also, should I sand the non-skid before or after I fix the deck?

There are also some other holes in the non-skid that I have to fix besides the non-skid.

Thanks.

jimh
Posts: 11673
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:25 pm
Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
Contact:

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 27, 2017 8:44 am

DT--what material did you use as the abrasive added with the salt-shaker?

dtmackey
Posts: 760
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:29 pm

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby dtmackey » Thu Dec 28, 2017 8:19 am

Sorry, been away a couple days over the holiday.

My boat had worn non-skid from the old metal gas tanks that would slide around and there was also a couple spots that needed repair, so saving the Whaler non-skid was a no-go in my project. I made the repairs and then sanded the entire floor with a DA sander and 80 grit, which removes the non-skid texture on the floor rather quickly, then I hand sanded the little gutter around the deck and filled with a glass reinforced filler.

Image

After that I sanded the entire floor with 180 grit (again on the DA sander) and then sprayed the entire interior with Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer to provide a good surface. Once dry (cured) I sanded the interior again with 180 grit and prepped for the Awlgrip polyurethane and sprayed the entire interior with the lighter color. Once that dried I masked off the areas to non-skid and also applied a Whaler decal in the bow locked area.

So now this is where the non-skid process comes into play. I shot a dust coat and then one full wet coat and then started to "salt-shaker" the texture on. I used the Awlgrip Griptex material and a modified peanut can in the below pics.

Image

Image

After the non-skid is down and had a chance to flash (tack up) I then applied a full wet coat and allowed that to flash and then applied 1 - 2 more coats med wet coats and stopped there. Once the paint sets and is tacky, you can then remove any designs or tape added to your finish. I used an Exacto-knife to lift the decal corners and there were no problems. It also provides a nice accent to the boat that you don't see elsewhere.

Image

I'm on year 9 or 10 with the non-skid (can't remember) and it's held up great and I'm very pleased. Personally, I feel that it's the best solution for the older Whalers or Whalers that require deck repairs.

D-

Acseatsri
Posts: 190
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:46 am

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby Acseatsri » Tue Jan 02, 2018 11:35 am

As an alternative method, I used Interlux Perfection paint on the inside, first using a da sander with 80 grit to remove the non-skid, then priming with epoxy primer, sanding with 220 grit between coats until all the gelcoat cracks were filled. Thin the epoxy to a water-like consistency for the first 2 coats to penetrate and seal all the cracks.
For the non-skid portions, I used the Perfection mixed with 50% flattening agent and added a decent helping of Intergrit and rolled on 2 coats with a foam roller. This was in 2008 and has held up well with a couple touch-ups before selling the boat 2 years ago.

2018Supersport13
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2020 6:13 pm

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby 2018Supersport13 » Sat Jun 20, 2020 6:37 pm

Hi,

Sorry if I am not doing this right. This is my first post. If this question needs to go somewhere else please let me know.

I am the original owner of a 2018 Super Sport 130. Towards the end of the second season of ownership (last summer), the transom had a hairline crack (inside of the boat-under the motor). I have attached a few pictures.

I brought it in and Whaler paid for the fix. Second time out this season (2020), it appeared again. Not the same crack, but in the same place. The length of the crack is about 22 inches. It is in for repair again, but I am just looking for some opinions. Because I can't keep it in the garage where I am, I used some Pettit FlexPoxy to seal it. It is holding on after several trips in the Boston Harbor as well as trailering. I don't know if I want the dealer to go digging around in the transom again to glass it just to fail again. And that's even if Whaler "approves" the repair.

Thank you-again, sorry if this is in the wrong place.

Arthur,

Medford, MA
Attachments
stress crack two close.jpeg
stress crack two close.jpeg (67.03 KiB) Viewed 3561 times
stress crack one close.jpeg
stress crack one close.jpeg (55.6 KiB) Viewed 3561 times
2018 Whaler Super Sport from side.jpeg
2018 Whaler Super Sport from side.jpeg (119.6 KiB) Viewed 3561 times

biggiefl
Posts: 897
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2019 1:31 pm
Location: south Tampa Bay area
Contact:

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby biggiefl » Mon Jun 22, 2020 10:32 am

I would not repair it myself on a 2018. I would be in contact with Whaler itself and possibly go under the lemon law if it is not fixed correctly. Your resale will suffer greatly if not addressed. There is a 10yr hull warranty.
On my 24th Whaler. Currently in the stable: 86 18' Outrage, 81 13' Sport(original owner), 87 11' Sport, 69 Squall(for sale cheap).

User avatar
Phil T
Posts: 2602
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 6:08 pm
Location: Was Maine. Temporarily Kentucky

Re: SUPER SPORT 13 Deck Repair

Postby Phil T » Mon Jun 22, 2020 12:35 pm

Gelcoat is a very thin layer applied to the mould first. When applied too thick, extra 1/16th or more) it can crack.

What your photo looks like to me is a stress crack where the gelcoat is too thick from the factory.

Factory defect.
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003