This weekend we completed sanding outside of hull and flipped the boat over for the first time in several months. While sizing up the project ahead, my son found what I believe everyone describes as a soft spot in the floor. The area is near the back of the boat and is about 6 inches x 12 inches. By soft, I mean you can push down the floor and feel it move about 1/8 inch before it contacts foam. It then feels solid. It would seem that over the years either the foam has shrunk away from the hull or the hull as otherwise become "un glued" from the foam.
Coincidentally, I had just repaired a piece of cheap furniture this weekend using gorilla glue. Not my first choice but the item at hand was not worth the effort of a more appropriate approach. After clamping and allowing the piece to dry over night, I noticed the glue expanded outside the repair lines just like foam. So, an idea was born....
Weather permitting next weekend, I'm going to drill a series of small holes in the soft spot and inject waterproof gorilla glue into the void between the foam and hull. I'll then place a few concrete blocks on the floor to hold it against the foam while it cures and expands. Other than sounding like a bad idea, can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't try this? I've got tons of fiberglass patching to do in the floor anyway.
Ll.
Project 13 Floor Repair - a novel approach
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Landlocked
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- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 5:37 pm
Re: Project 13 Floor Repair - a novel approach
Years ago, I had the same problem on a 1987 13’ Super Sport just behind the anchor locker in the floor.
About 1’x 2’ area. Instead of using Gorilla Glue, I used West System epoxy. It was mixed, and put into a new, empty caulking gun cartridge. I drilled two holes. One as far forward of the soft spot, and the other as far aft. I inserted the tip into the aft hole and pumped in 2-3 cartridges worth until it began to flow out of the other hole. Next, inserted a 3/4” stainless screws in each hole, and stepped around the soft spot (gently)making sure it spread to every void the best I could. Then let it cure 24 hours. BTW, a decent amount of heat was generated when curing.
I removed the screws and dabbed some gelcoat, to make it all but an invisible repair. It worked PERFECTLY.
10 or so years later, that Whaler is still admirable, sitting in my neighbors yard. As we moved up to the Montauk 150.
I had written up this whole procedure and posted on continuouswave. It’s archived on the old format somewhere.
I assume that Gorilla Glue would be similar, and don’t know any downsides. But I KNOW the West System worked fantastic.
Best of luck!!
About 1’x 2’ area. Instead of using Gorilla Glue, I used West System epoxy. It was mixed, and put into a new, empty caulking gun cartridge. I drilled two holes. One as far forward of the soft spot, and the other as far aft. I inserted the tip into the aft hole and pumped in 2-3 cartridges worth until it began to flow out of the other hole. Next, inserted a 3/4” stainless screws in each hole, and stepped around the soft spot (gently)making sure it spread to every void the best I could. Then let it cure 24 hours. BTW, a decent amount of heat was generated when curing.
I removed the screws and dabbed some gelcoat, to make it all but an invisible repair. It worked PERFECTLY.
10 or so years later, that Whaler is still admirable, sitting in my neighbors yard. As we moved up to the Montauk 150.
I had written up this whole procedure and posted on continuouswave. It’s archived on the old format somewhere.
I assume that Gorilla Glue would be similar, and don’t know any downsides. But I KNOW the West System worked fantastic.
Best of luck!!
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Landlocked
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 5:37 pm
Re: Project 13 Floor Repair - a novel approach
Thanks for info - Will certainly consider. Weather did not cooperate this weekend anyway...
Ll.
Ll.