1999 CONQUEST 23; Pulling Deck

[StormWarning]

[On a 1999 Boston Whaler CONQUEST 23 I] had to replace the hydraulic hoses for the steering. When I pulled the hoses to get them out from underneath the deck, the hoses somehow seemed to be tied to the other cables. Instead of the hoses coming out, I ended up pulling all the wires half way out of the [C-shaped rigging channel] they sit in. Now I can't get everything back into or out of the [rigging channel], and the edge of the fiberglass [rigging channel] is sharp, so I'm sure something will get cut if I leave it be.

The only solution I see is to pull up the deck in the back. I see a bunch of screws, and there is sealant around the edge, but is the floor also glued to the floor below the deck? Is it just a matter of taking out the screws, slicing the sealant around the edge and pulling up?

I also have several other cables I ran that sit on the fuel tank and not in the channel so it would also be nice to get them in the channel.

Here is a video of my boat. About a minute and half in you can see the deck. https://youtu.be/mSqdC4r70Yk

[StormWarning]

Also, what is the sealant generally used and what should I use?

[StormWarning]

I found the answer to my own question--and not a good answer. I found a drawing on whalerparts.com. The upper deck and the back deck are one piece all the way back to the engines. To remove [the deck] I would have to either cut it or pull the whole back off the boat--way more then I can deal with. I also called Boston Whaler and they confirmed it is one piece.

Now I am not sure what to do. I likely will just have to pull all the wires out of the channel and leave them laying on the fuel tank.

[Jefecinco]

To avoid wear to the insulation of electric wiring laying on the fuel tank and the possibility of a short circuit there you may want to replace the 17 year old wiring and bundle it with some wire ties. I would also slide some split wire loom over the bundled wire to further protect it from wear.

[jimh]

While not the same model, the image below shows the c.2005 235 CONQUEST with the upper deck shell removed from the hull. This gives some indication of the amount of wiring and rigging that is concealed under the deck on a larger cabin boat from Boston Whaler. As seen in the image, the wiring appears to be placed in a nylon mesh enclosing that is supported by nylon tie wraps at intervals of about one foot. There is a pull-cord visibile at the end of a rigging tube that is inboard from the main rigging tube. I would infer that was left there for the owner or later installer to use for running new rigging along that path.

[i]

ASIDE: On my older classic Boston Whaler cabin boat, I have migrated all the electrical rigging out of the under-deck rigging tunnel path and moved it to run under the gunwales. The only rigging left in the rigging tunnel on my boat are two hydraulic steering cables, a bonding conductor, and the SONAR transducer cable. The reason I left the SONAR transducer cable in the original rigging tunnel was to isolate it from all the other electrical wiring to reduce ingress of electrical interference into the SONAR via the transducer cable.

[jimh]

The sealant used to make a waterproof seal of removable deck sections that are otherwise held in place by mechanical fasteners is usually just some sort of silicon caulk. I don't think the caulk is intended as an adhesive to hold the panel in place, but, rather, just a sealant to keep water from getting through the opening at the joint line between deck panels.

[Acseatsri]

Re sealing the deck seam: I always lay a bead of GE silicone around the perimeter of the boat where the cover will lay prior to reinstalling the lid, making sure to get some silicone over the screw holes. Then coat each screw with silicone before installation to further prevent water ingress. Last, I mask both sides of the deck seam with blue painters tape, then fill the seam with Boatlife Lifeseal (not Lifecaulk), moving the caulking gun FORWARD to fill the seam completely. I do a three-foot or four-foot section at a time, then "tool" the seam with a gloved wet finger, doing this in sections so that the sealant doesn't start to skin over before it is smoothed out. I try to work quickly when doing this, then remove the tape as soon as possible and definitely before the sealant starts to set.

[jimh]

ASIDE: I became curious about the difference between a caulk and a sealant. The definition of those terms at one reasonably authoritative source are:

CAULK, "material used to caulk" (i.e., to fill the cracks or holes in something with a substance that keeps out water)

SEALANT, "a substance that is put on a surface in order to protect it from air, water, etc."

From M-W.COM

[Acseatsri]

My take on sealants:
I use silicone where it won't be underwater and where I expect to take it apart soon, as it has nearly no adhesive qualities, merely to seal out water.

I use 3M 5200 underwater where I want something more or less permanently sealed, as this polyurethane sealant adheres tenaciously and is less flexible than most other underwater sealants.

I use Boatlife Lifeseal for deck seams and underwater where I know I'll have to perform service in the near future. Lifeseal is a silicone/polyurethane blend with medium adhesion and stays flexible.

Lifecaulk is not as flexible or durable as Lifeseal. I think it's primarily used on teak deck seams. I used it for a deck seam once and ended up doing it over the next year.

Theses are just MY personal preferences, but having owned 5 different Whalers over 25 years, it works for me.

[jimh]

Thanks for the comments on the caulk choice.

The 3M5200 and 3M4200 product are ADHESIVES. They are not sealants or caulks.

[Acseatsri]

The 3M5200 and 3M4200 product are ADHESIVES. They are not sealants or caulks.

Hmmm, on the packaging they call it "adhesive sealant". It's a sealant that adheres tenaciously. As such, I use it underwater in instances where I want a permanent bond and have no intention to ever take it apart. This would include thru-hull fittings and on underwater screws, especially those that go into the transom. I've never had problems removing screws that were sealed with 5200, so I wouldn't consider it permanent if using as a sealant on screws.

[jimh]

It is great that 3M calls their adhesive a sealant. Mercury calls their VERADO a propulsion system, too. Most people call it an outboard engine.

[Acseatsri]

Whatever. If the word "sealant" is in the title and it creates a waterproof bond, why isn't it a sealant?

[jimh]

I rely on dictionary editors to slice-and-dice word meaning. If you want refer to caulks as sealants, or to refers to extremely strong adhesives as sealants, your usage is contrary to the normal usage of those words. Many manufacturers misuse common words. For example, Lowrance refers to their GPS receivers as "antennas." I am not about to adopt their usage. I am not about to adopt yours.

The original inquiry was for advice on a caulk to caulk the seam or gap between removable deck panels.