1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
Moses11
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1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby Moses11 » Sun Jul 01, 2018 3:09 pm

I have owned a 1987 Outrage 20 for about 15 years. A great boat. The boat has a Florida Marine tank. This winter [the fuel tank] had water intrusion.

[Where can] a 77-gallon fuel tank to replace the current [fuel tank be found]?

Also, I need the drawings for the teak coverage the stern.

jimh
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Re: 1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby jimh » Mon Jul 02, 2018 5:34 am

Florida Marine Tanks can make a replacement tank on a custom order basis.

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Phil T
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Re: 1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby Phil T » Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:45 am

Moses--Prior to doing any work on a $1,000 to1,500 new fuel tank, I would suggest the following:

Are all the hoses (fill, vent and supply) original?

Or, have they been replaced with ones stamped "alcohol resistant"?

If not, replace them.

Hoses degrade from the inside and can lead to water infiltration. \

Are all hose clamps tight?

Do a low ( 2-PSI) pressure test of the tank. If the tank fails you know you have a problem. If not, there is an infiltration, phase-separation-of-fuel problem.

If you live in the area defined as from New York to Florida and east of the Mississippi, Florida Marine Tanks, in Henderson, SC can fabricate you a new tank. See http://floridamarinetanks.com

If outside this area, a local fabricator will be more practical solution due to shipping.
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003

jimh
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Re: 1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby jimh » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:03 pm

Moses11 wrote:...need the drawings for the teak coverage the stern.


I don't understand "coverage." Please explain "coverage."

If you have some teak component now on your boat, you should be able to take measurements from that teak component, and if you want a drawing of that teak component you could make your own drawing.

Moses11
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Re: 1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby Moses11 » Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:15 pm

I am looking for the measurements for the teak hatch cover for the stern plug. I can make a mock up [in] cardboard and then cut out.

Does someone sell them?

Or, will it be just easier to make [one]?

As for the tank, I am going to pump the tank and see what happens. I will try the 2-PSI test.

I ran the boat all day on July 4, 2018, and no [problems occurred]. Thank you all for the help.

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Phil T
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Re: 1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby Phil T » Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:26 pm

For the floor hatch, contact Walt at Blackduck Galleries.

His reproduction products are as good as you can get.

http://blackduckgallery.com/WOODPARTS.html
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003

jimh
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Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:25 pm
Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
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Re: 1987 Outrage 20: replacement fuel tank

Postby jimh » Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:44 pm

Moses11 wrote:I am looking for the measurements for the teak hatch cover for the stern plug...

I think you mean you are interested in the measurement for a teak cover for the aft cockpit sump. Is that right? Since you have the boat, can't you just measure the opening recessed area and get the measurements from that?

The aft cockpit sump cover on a classic OUTRAGE was typically made from teak plywood. The outboard side of the cover was fixed in place. The inboard side of of cover was hinged and opened. The line of the hinged joint was parallel to the keel center line.

The hinged opening allows you to reach into the sump and install or remove the sump drain plug. The fixed portion was fastened in place with four self-tapping screws. You should see the original holes from these fasteners. Re-use the same holes when you make a new cover.

The outboard edge of the sump cover typically had a diagonal or perhaps half-moon circular relief cut into one corner to allow the fuel hoses to rise out of the rigging tunnel and connect to the engine. Any other cables coming out of the rigging tunnel also pass through this opening.

The portion of the cover that opens is slightly larger than the portion that is fixed in place. Again, you can judge this from observation of the original fastener holes in the area of the sump in the recessed lip.

Moses11 wrote:...will it be just easier to make [one instead of buy one from a artisan that makes them]?

The degree of difficulty for you to make a cover is unknown to me. I have no knowledge of your skills as a carpenter. Because the shapes are mostly straight lines, the sawing of the wood should be accordingly simple. The edges are usually rounded by sanding.

I recommend using WEST System clear epoxy to coat the wood after you have finished fabrication. This will completely seal the wood and prevent moisture from creating wood rot (a problem in freshwater as might occur if rain water collects in the sump).