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Ten Questions

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 9:40 am
by dleopoldi914
! have a classic Boston Whaler Montauk 17, and I am new to boating and not mechanically inclined. The MONTAUK will be garaged in the winter so I can work on it. I’ve read the service manuals on my engine, my boat, on continuous wave, and I am here to see what is suggested.

I have a Tohatsu M90A. I want to replace the throttle and shift cables. I read 18 feet is what is needed.

Q1: [Replacement of the throttle and shift cables] seems easy. No?

Q2: Do I just attach the old cable to new one and pull it through the tunnel?

Q3: And attach [the new cables to the controls and engine]?

Q4: What type of cable would you use?

I have the impeller kit for Tohatsu M90A engine.

Q5: Do I need clamps to hold the lower unit when I do this?

Q6: Is the process just basically putting the seals in and the new impeller?

This is one-hour of labor in the shop by me.

Q7: Should I not attempt this?

I believe boat needs to be in forward gear when I do this

I will do all the winterizing myself: Stabilizer to gasoline: run engine with fresh water for 20 minutes to clean out salt; replace lower gear oil; then fog.

I need to pull the steering tube out on engine and apply grease.

Q8: Do I use sandpaper to remove old grease [from the steering tube]?

Q9: Or, just apply more grease over [the exiting grease]?

For my four-stroke-power-cycle auxiliary engine I will replace the engine oil.

Q10: Am I missing anything here?

Re: Gauging Difficulty (New Boater)

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:37 pm
by GoldenDaze
I've replaced the throttle and shift cables on my 160 Dauntless. Because they are not very flexible, I'd suggest pulling out the old cables and pulling through a messenger line, then using the messenger line to pull through the new cables. Maybe pull through another messenger line so you have one for next time.

I'm not familiar with the Tohatsu engine, but I've replaced several other impellers and it's a relatively easy job. On the Mercury, it's best to have the gear shift in forward to help align the shift rod when you reinstall the lower unit. Be sure to lube the new impeller so you don't burn the edges on the first startup.

None of this work is particularly difficult, just take it slow and if it feels like you need to force it, then you're probably doing it wrong.

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 7:03 am
by jimh
Here are my answers to your ten questions:

Q1: Your question is framed in the negative. This is always confusing, Reframe question.
Q2: No. Use a pull cord.
Q3: Yes
Q4: OEM premium grade
Q5: You need some fixture to hold the gear case in a position to work on it while you replace the impeller.
Q6: No. Follow the specific instructions in the service manual.
Q7: Your question is framed in the negative. This is always confusing. Reframe question.
Q8: No
Q9: No
Q10: Probably

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 7:15 am
by jimh
Threads that ask many questions are generally poorly read and poorly answered. It is better to limit a thread to one question at a time. Avoid asking questions framed in the negative. Such questions are confusing, and the answers can be ambiguous.

Working on any part of a boat is generally more challenging than a non-boater might think. The work often has to be performed in very small spaces, and one must often work from cramped and awkward positions. The best boat mechanics are usually smaller people, who can get into small spaces to perform the work.

In your first sentence you inform us " not mechanically inclined." From that declaration I infer that you do not have a lot of experience in working with engines, wiring, rigging, tools, fittings, and so on. Generally in order to work on projects involving boat engines, a fairly large set of tools will be needed. It's not that you need 1,000-tools, but in order to have the four or five tools you will need, you probably will have to own a fairly large tool kit in order to find them in there.

The water pump on an outboard engine is a CRITICAL component, and any service done to the water pump must be properly performed. A failed water pump will result in engine overheating.

Generally the time required to perform a particular service procedure for the first time will be much greater than subsequent attempts. If an experienced mechanic who has all the proper tools and who has performed a particular procedure a hundred times requires one-hour to accomplish the task, you can expect that on your first try you will take about three-times longer, or more, particularly if you don't have the proper tools.

Before disassembling anything, take detailed digital images of the original configuration. Review of these images will be helpful when reassembling.

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:08 am
by Phil T
There is a chance that there is a whaler owner in your state or even area that may be able to mentor you on maintenance and ownership problems.

Can you provide your location?

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 12:44 pm
by jimh
I recall seeing a sign posted (probably in humor but perhaps not completely disingenuously) in a repair shop that announced the labor rates:


--if I fix it, $10-per-hour

--if you tried to fix it yourself first, $15-per-hour

--if you want to watch while I fix it, add $10-per-hour

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 9:04 am
by jimh
Re the proper length for a replacement shift and throttle cable: rather than go by the information from an uncited web source, I suggest measuring the length of the cables you presently have in use.

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:00 pm
by dleopoldi914
Phil T wrote:Can you provide your location?

I am in Norwalk, Connecticut. I am looking for any help I can get

Re: Ten Questions

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:11 pm
by dg22
One-hour labor to replace an impeller is very reasonable. At that rate, I would have the shop do it.