Noticed [on a Boston Whaler 210 OUTRAGE boat that] the forward screw fastener for the starboard front bow rail is just sitting in the hole. I pull out the screw and pushed the rail over to see the hole. There are no threads there
Is there a nut epoxied to the bottom?
If so it's gone, and I don't see a way to access that area.
Anyone have repair suggestions?
Is there a wall-anchor-type gadget that might work for this?
--Jim
210 Outrage bow rail screw
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
The rail is screwed into the fiberglass cap and backing material, either marine plywood or phenolic board.
Check all your railing screws.
How is it possible to lift the rail base, there should be 2 screws per rail base.
Photo?
Check all your railing screws.
How is it possible to lift the rail base, there should be 2 screws per rail base.
Photo?
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
Phil--below are two photos. This is a threaded screw, not self-taping. Unless someone changed it. However the loose fastener looks like all the other fasteners. Only one screw in the forward mount and one in the rear mount. Two screws in the middle mount.--Jim
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
Boston Whaler sometimes embeds a phenolic board which can be tapped and will hold a machine screw. Check the drawings for the 210 OUTRAGE boat to see what embedded material is used at that location. You can generally access the actual Boston Whaler mechanical and pictorial drawings at their website, usually under the owner resources section. I found the drawing linked below associated with a 2008 model year 210 OUTRAGE boat.
Cf.: http://bostonwhaler.com.s3.amazonaws.co ... m-2008.pdf
The above linked drawing shows phenolic board embedded at callout "S" on the gunwales at locations that appear to correspond with bow railing bases. If the fastener has no purchase into threads in the phenolic, the threads may have become stripped out and the threaded hole diameter enlarged. A remedy may be to fill the hole with epoxy resin, redrill a new hole, and rethread new threads into the new hole and its epoxy reinforcement. However, some phenolic boards may not be a good bond with epoxy or other construction adhesives due to their molecular characteristics.
I suggest you call Boston Whaler customer service and inquire with them. For a recently made model like the 210 OUTRAGE, Boston Whaler customer support guys will be familiar with the construction details and should be able to easily resolve any questions. I would suspect that this problem may have been encountered before by other customers, and Boston Whaler may have a specific remedy for it.
Cf.: http://bostonwhaler.com.s3.amazonaws.co ... m-2008.pdf
The above linked drawing shows phenolic board embedded at callout "S" on the gunwales at locations that appear to correspond with bow railing bases. If the fastener has no purchase into threads in the phenolic, the threads may have become stripped out and the threaded hole diameter enlarged. A remedy may be to fill the hole with epoxy resin, redrill a new hole, and rethread new threads into the new hole and its epoxy reinforcement. However, some phenolic boards may not be a good bond with epoxy or other construction adhesives due to their molecular characteristics.
I suggest you call Boston Whaler customer service and inquire with them. For a recently made model like the 210 OUTRAGE, Boston Whaler customer support guys will be familiar with the construction details and should be able to easily resolve any questions. I would suspect that this problem may have been encountered before by other customers, and Boston Whaler may have a specific remedy for it.
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
That is exactly what I will do. Thanks for the info and advice. You're right, they have probably run into this a few times already....
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
Whaler says the screw is tapped into phenolic board. Their suggestion is to fill with epoxy and retap.
I think I will go a different route and use a stainless steel heli-coil to fix this problem. I may epoxy it or use 5200 to make sure the helix-coil never backs out.
I think I will go a different route and use a stainless steel heli-coil to fix this problem. I may epoxy it or use 5200 to make sure the helix-coil never backs out.
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
You could also use a rivet nut. Check on Amazon. You can get a rivet nut in stainless steel.
1985 15’ Sport with Yamaha F70
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
zigzag930 wrote:Whaler says the screw is tapped into phenolic board. Their suggestion is to fill with epoxy and retap.
I see that Boston Whaler and I both recommended the same solution. I would follow their advice.
Post a follow up after you try your method, and let us know how it worked out. You will need to be extremely careful in your application of 3M-5200 as an adhesive to hold in place the heli-coil. And similarly be careful with epoxy as an adhesive for the heli-coil. If you get 3M-5200 or epoxy resin on the threads of the Heli-Coil, inserting the machine screw may be a problem.zigzag930 wrote:I think I will go a different route and use a stainless steel heli-coil to fix this problem. I may epoxy it or use 5200 to make sure the helix-coil never backs out.
Re: 210 Outrage bow rail screw
Made the repair yesterday using heli-coil and 3m 4200 (just in case it ever needs to come out). Also bedded the stancion in 4100 to prevent water intrusion. Tested the repair today and it appears to be very secure. Of course time will tell, but this was a pretty fast and easy fix once I had it figured out. Hope this helps anyone else that runs into a similar situation.