VERADO Replace OEM Power Trim Motor

[funnybanana]

[This author is trying to] replace the OEM power trim motor on [a Mercury] Verado without pulling out the whole setup. I was hoping to work in the very confined space given to remove the trim motor.

Fig. 1 Allen wrench inserted into bolt head. (Photo has been altered to have better view in the darker areas to reveal the end of the Allen wrench and the fastener head. Photo has been identified as Fig. 1. Photo caption created by me.--jimh}

VERADOa.jpg (27.76 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

Strangely, I was able to easily get out the rear bolt. This front [fastener] is stuck. I've stripped the [hex socket] on [the front fastener].

Give me ideas to get this thing out without having to resort to pulling everything off to use an extractor.

[The stuck fastener] is really frustrating. I would love some help. Thanks

[jimh]

With the hex socket inset on the cap screw now rounded, you may have difficulty in applying enough force to break loose the stuck fastener. If possible, drill or grind off the cap-screw head. This should allow the motor to be removed, and it will reveal some part of the remaining threaded fastener. To remove reluctant fasteners, apply liquid solvents; apply heat; repeat several times. Then use vice-grips and say a prayer.

That the material of the fastener in the hex socket insert has already yielded to the force applied by the Allen wrench does not bode well. The force holding the fastener in place has already demonstrated that it is stronger than the material of the fastener itself. There is little opportunity to increase the strength of the material in the fastener; the only means to overcome the force holding the fastener in place is to reduce that force.

In the case of two metals of different material in combination with a corrosive like saltwater, the bonds holding the fastener to the metal of the mounting material may have become extremely strong; perhaps a chemical bonding of the metals has occurred. This bonding force must be overcome with some method, and generally solvents and heat work effectively.

[dtmackey]

I find that hex sockets tend to round out the socket head cap screw more easily than if it was a hex head cap screw. Hex-head cap screws stand a better chance of removal, but in a tight space like that, Mercury chose not to use. My tool of choice in your situation is a big heavy pair of curved (or radius) jaw vice grips after lots of penetrating oil. Heat is also a great help but in a casting with hydraulic fluid, I'd might pass on that.

Jim's suggestion of grinding off the head to remove the trim motor would give you more room to work and might be the key to preventing a much larger project.

D-

[BBS]

I've had some luck cutting a groove across the head with a dremel and using a large screwdriver - but use the p-oil first.

[Jefecinco]

I've had some luck with removing "frozen" fasteners by using a mallet to strike a drift pin in contact with the fastener. As recommended I would use a penetrating oil such as "Liquid Wrench" before striking the fastener. If time permits allow a few days for the oil to do its job.

If access allows, it could be useful to drill the fastener starting with the hole now rounded with an allen wrench. An "easy-out" such as those included with helicoil repair kits may be worth a try but the fit needs to so tight that the easy out would have to be driven into the hole in the fastener.

[Chris70]

If you happen to have a MIG welder or can borrow one from a friend, I usually deal with broken/ rounded off bolts by welding a nut to the top of the stripped bolt. I lay the new nut on top of the suspect bolt and weld them together through the hole of the new nut.Then you can use a socket or open end wrench to remove it.Bonus: the process of welding the nut to the damaged fastener heats it as well making removal easier.