1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
v12mac
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:27 pm

1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby v12mac » Tue Mar 05, 2019 4:13 pm

I have been fighting with varnish all winter and now it is time to put the [1988 SUPER SPORT 13] back together--if I can recall where all these bits go, as there are way more parts than the Sport I had as a kid.

I bought this thing partially disassembled, and about half the hardware is missing. I have found the mounting screws seem to be self-tapping with the point cut off? Is this correct?

What sealant do you recommend? I figure the interior will have to come out every five years or so for refinishing. I am thinking a dab of clear marine silicone. What do you folks go with?

This boat was a tender and has holes drilled through the gunwales that appear to have been filled with WEST System epoxy but not covered. The Sun is getting at the epoxy. My plan is to grind down the epoxy and touch up with Spectrum Desert Tan. How deep in to the old repair should I go?

There are lots of abandoned screws in the floor, but no water intrusion. When he [who is "he"--jimh] is older we might make it perfect.

Tom Hemphill
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Re: Reinstalling interior 13' Super Sport 1988

Postby Tom Hemphill » Tue Mar 05, 2019 6:45 pm

  1. I would expect points on the screws, but if pointless ones work for you, go for it.
  2. A dab of marine silicone should work, but I prefer a polysulfide sealant like BoatLIFE Life-Calk.
  3. Putting gelcoat over the repaired areas is a good idea, but don't necessarily remove material under it, as gelcoat is a thin, brittle, and mostly cosmetic layer
  4. It's a good idea to treat holes in the floor with a dab of 3M 5200 adhesive-sealant and re-insert the screw

jimh
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Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
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Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby jimh » Tue Mar 05, 2019 7:12 pm

The thickness of the gel coat resin layer on a typical Boston Whaler hull surface might be about 0.020 ("twenty thousandths") in flat areas, but the resin can build up thicker in parts of the mold that were concave. Thicker gel coat layers become rather brittle and are prone to cracking.

As noted, epoxy will tend to yellow with exposure to sunlight, so if you want the hull finish to be uniform, you will have to top-coat any epoxy repairs with gel coat.

Before applying gel coat resin--typically a polyester resin--over epoxy, you need to be careful with the preparation. If preparation is not done properly there will be problems with curing of the polyester resin. Listen to advice from WEST System about how to do this. Play the recording of my interview with WEST Systems customer service representative Jim Watson at

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/radio/ ... tPart1.mp3

More interview segments at

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/radio/

v12mac
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:27 pm

Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby v12mac » Tue Mar 05, 2019 7:40 pm

The repairs were done prior to us picking up the boat. It appears the repair involved putting tape on the hull, flush with gel coat, and injecting thickened resin from the inside. [The external surface of the repair area is then] flush with the highest level of the existing gel coat resin layer. I'll post an image to illustrate.

v12mac
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:27 pm

Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby v12mac » Wed Mar 06, 2019 3:19 pm

[I have o]dered a small patch amount of Desert Tan from Spectrum and a new rub rail kit from Barbour, who are super knowledgeable. Their [rub rail replacement] kit [contained] 29-feet [of three piece railings and cost] $185 for all three pieces—not too bad for such a big cosmetic improvement.


BARBOUR PLASTICS, INC
932 North Montello Street, PO Box 2158
Brockton MA 02405
Phone: 508-583-8200
Fax: 508-583-4113

jimh
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Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
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Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby jimh » Wed Mar 06, 2019 3:32 pm

For twenty years there has been an article in REFERENCE about rub rails for classic Boston Whaler boats and where to get them. See

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/rubRail.html

v12mac
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:27 pm

Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby v12mac » Wed Mar 06, 2019 4:08 pm

jimh wrote:For twenty years there has been an article in REFERENCE about rub rails for classic Boston Whaler boats and where to get them. See

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/rubRail.html


Yep, that's where I found these guys. Just good to see they are still up and running, prices have edged up in the last 20 years but sill a great value!

jimh
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Location: Michigan, Lower Peninsula
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Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby jimh » Wed Mar 06, 2019 4:53 pm

I am pleased that you found the REFERENCE article on how to repair rub railings to be useful. So far I have managed to avoid damaging the rub rails on my own three Boston Whaler classic boats that have them, but some day in the future--for all of us--there may be a time when the rub rails on our classic Boston Whaler boats will need some repair or replacement.

v12mac
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Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:27 pm

Re: 1998 SUPER SPORT 13: Reinstalling Interior

Postby v12mac » Wed Mar 06, 2019 6:21 pm

Yep, the previous owner had an elaborate system of lift points and tie downs where holes were drilled through the rub rail and hull. They had to cut 2 reliefs in the L track to keep the SS brackets against the hull. I had to pull the rail to properly fill the holes. Again, a quick project begins to esclate!