1989 OUTRAGE 22 Loose Deck Under Console

[boblessing]

I have a 1989 OUTRAGE 22 that was completely refurbished in 2005.

[Now, 14-years later,] the center deck that sits under the center console and over the fuel tank has started to become unattached. When I am running head to wind, the console will actually pull the forward part of the floor panel up and the console rocks aft.

I have consulted a talented local craftsman who works on Boston Whaler boats. The local craftsman suggested taking [out] all the deck panels screws and filling [the screw holes] them with [WEST System Six10 THICKENED EPOXY ADHESIVE]. Once cured, the local craftsman said I can re-drill the holes and replace all the screws.

Give me suggestions or pointers for this project.

Thanks-- Bo

[jimh]

Q1: does this boat have a T-Top?

I am expecting it might, as what else could generate so much lift force on the deck to pull the deck up from its multiple screw fasteners and lift the weight of the deck, the console, and the helmsman upward.

[boblessing]

It does have a T-top, but I would like to keep it

[jimh]

Use more screw fasteners to hold it down.

Change the angle of the T-top upper surface so it creates less lift.

[NLA01]

What about unscrewing the console and removing the strips of mounting wood under the console. Then proceed with filling those holes in the deck and then redrilling new holes in the mounting boards and deck for mounting the console with new holes slightly off from the original holes into fresh deck and wood. Maybe add a few more fasteners.

[Crusty the Clam]

[Endorses the suggested from ACASSIDY:]

What about unscrewing the console and removing the strips of mounting wood under the console. Then proceed with filling those holes in the deck and then re-drilling new holes in the mounting boards and deck for mounting the console with new holes slightly off from the original holes into fresh deck and wood. Maybe add a few more fasteners.

And, if possible modify, the T top per Jim's suggestion.

By the way, the [WEST System Six10 THICKENED EPOXY ADHESIVE] is the bomb. I used it after drilling out rotted or stripped holes for my forward bow rail. Pre-thickened, it mixes in a special tip provided for the purpose, and it flows under pressure (from a caulk gun), but once in place it stays there. No sagging and cures rock hard. And yet West says that it can be used to wet out fiberglass with a plastic trowel. Incredible stuff. With just a little care, you can close the tip back up and store the tube if it's not empty. All you need is a new plastic tip.

[Acseatsri]

You'll probably find that the wood under the deck that the tank cavity cover screws into is rotted.

I removed the deck, then drilled out the holes with a 3/4-hole hole saw, then went in at angles to created a void larger at the bottom than the top, also scraping foam off the underside of the glass to get a good bond, then poured slightly thickened epoxy in the holes to fill.

I ended up doing it in two pours, first one to soak into the foam and bond to the glass, the second to top off the hole, making sure to pour it before the first batch was completely set to form a primary bond. You may try making a dam around the hole with blue tape.

I also added more screws between the original screws near the anchors for the T-top. When you put the cover back on, just re-drill the screw holes and screw back down. I use 3M5200 adhesive sealant to seal the screws.

I also recored the tank cover with marine plywood when I had it off, but it sounds like this was already done.

It's been 12 years since I did the repair and the T-top is still solid with no movement.

[boblessing]

Thanks for the input.

Although pulling the panel off completely is probably what I need to do, I’m hoping to not unrig the console.

I am hoping to inject all of the existing holes with [WEST System Six10 THICKENED EPOXY ADHESIVE] using a syringe. I hope this will go through the existing hole and bond under the fiberglass fastening rib that I was told is there. The wood strip on top of that is certainly rotten.

I also plan to add a few more fasteners between the existing screws, especially in the forward part of the panel. Once the epoxy sets, I will re-drill and set screws with 5200. It may not be a 14-year-fix, but hopefully it will keep me going for a little while.

I just re-powered the OUTRAGE 22, and don’t want to take it out of commission.

[Acseatsri]

I would be wary of trying to inject epoxy with the floor in place. All it would take would be a little overflow to get between the floor and the hull to pretty much permanently stick it together. That would probably solve the flexibility problem, but I wouldn't want to have to pull up the cover again.

Perhaps you could unfasten the cover and slide it a couple inches from side to side to get at the holes without totally disconnecting everything.

[jimh]

I am hoping to inject all of the existing holes with [WEST System Six10 THICKENED EPOXY ADHESIVE] using a syringe. I hope this will go through the existing hole and bond under the fiberglass fastening rib that I was told is there.

I don't understand your reference to a "fiberglass fastening rib." Can you explain more about how you think the removable deck section that covers the fuel tank cavity on an OUTRAGE 22 is constructed? Perhaps you can show us a cross section diagram of what you expect to find in the hull.