Classic 15 Replace Steering Wheel and Helm

[Tailwind]

Hello Folks. I have a 1989 15-footer that has been modified with a side console that is higher than original, more like a small center console, offset to starboard. I plan to replace the 16-inch Destroyer steering wheel with something much smaller with a knob. I feel the wheel is far too big for the boat and it blocks the view of the dash mounted Garmin.

These steering wheels come in 13-inch and 11-inch diameters. I know the 13-inch is plenty big enough, as I have one on a much larger center console.

Q1: is there any reason an 11-inch wheel would be too small?

Q2: what type of helm is best suited for this fun little skiff?

Thank a bunch.

For a little background, I posted a note about this boat not too long after I had bought it with much dismay as to the condition of the gel coat overall. Since then, I stripped the entire hull, filled 130 holes, had some glass repairs done, and wet sanded it all. Oh, then I replaced the engine with a new F70, re-rigged everything, added a NMEA2000 network, and a Garmin display.

[Tailwind]

Here is a view of the 15-footer showing the non-OEM side console.

Fig. 1. This photo was take after the re-fit. The engine was still a Yamaha 60-HP. The location is northern tip of Palm Beach Island, as you might infer from the water color.

Whaler Renovated.jpg (78.93 KiB) Viewed 4435 times

[Oldslowandugly]

I used that same flip-back cooler seat, and it is nice for dry storage.

I used a very small TODD center console as there is not a lot of room on the 15-footer.

Small TODD steering console.

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I see no reason why a small steering wheel would be a problem unless the loss of mechanical advantage made the steering effort unmanageable. Your boat's steering looks like a Teleflex mechanical cable, which is a very effortless design. I don't think [a smaller diameter steering wheel] would hurt.

[Tailwind]

[Changed TOPIC of the thread to begin discussing other components. Start a new thread for those topics--jimh]

[Oldslowandugly]

More information about modified steering console:

Console base. The gap in the base at the aft side is to allow cables to run out from under the console.

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I used the long lasting mahogany on the deck where the console is mounted. I did not want the console screwed into just the fiberglass deck as the strain would be excessive. I made a base that is screwed and glued down with 3M-5200. Then the console is bolted to that. The base is rigid to the deck and any strain is taken up by the wood. Note that the folding bench seat at the stern is also mahogany. Most of it was salvaged from my first boat and is 40 years old. Mahogany is the only wood I would use on a boat.

[jimh]

Regarding what sort of steering system would be appropriate in a classic 15-footer:

The best steering systems are hydraulic steering systems. The new BAYSTAR system for engines of 150-HP or less would be appropriate. See:

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/product ... w/baystar/

If hydraulic steering is too expensive or considered unnecessary, then a mechanical cable steering system will be the next best choice. For years the TELEFLEX brand was the dominant product. That line of steering is now under the SEA STAR SOLUTIONS brand. See

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/

Under their "mechanical steering" products, they offer about a dozen choices. Perhaps something like their NFB™ Safe-T® II Rotary model will be appropriate:

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/product ... fe-t-ll-2/

As there are so many choices, I recommend you review the SEA STAR SOLUTIONS catalogue, or contact them via telephone and ask for their opinion on which of their mechanical steering systems would be recommended for your application.

[Tailwind]

To anyone has replaced a cable helm on a 13/15/17 foot classic:

I would appreciate any personal experience you may be willing to offer.

I have used cable and hydraulic helms in a variety of boats for many years and would like specific experience in this application, to the extent it is out there. Thanks.

[Oldslowandugly]

What steering do you have now?

I would appreciate any personal experience you may be willing to offer.

I used the Teleflex [now known as SEA STAR SOLUTIONS--jimh] Safe-T Quick Connect. The QC merely means that I can remove the cable at the helm by inserting a wire clip tool to disconnect it. Older models used a big nut to retain the cable, similar to the nut at the engine steering arm.

I started from scratch so I had to position the helm unit to fit the console. The tube that the extended cable goes into must be free from sharp turns. Where the cable exits the console must be free of sharp turns, too.

I managed to route the cable straight down and out the bottom of the console. That way the return cable tube also pointed straight down. If you look at the illustration above for the mahogany base there is a gap. That is where the steering cable and electrical cables all exit and run to the stern. They then run under the cooler seat.

Exposed sections I covered with extruded aluminum door sill plate. That contains everything nicely and is not a trip hazard.

The center console with steering cable running out the bottom and covered on deck by an aluminum door sill plate.

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[Tailwind]

OLDSLOW'--your approach to conversion to center console is really cool, especially how you secured the console. I hate screwing into fiberglass.

The steering cable on my boat exits the console on starboard and goes aft to the engine. The steering works quite well, actually, but it seems very old. I fear that it may give out at a bad time.

[Oldslowandugly]

Just get a new cable. They are readily available and not hard to change out. The head unit is probably fine. Mine is over 20 years old and in great condition. I have only ever seen one helm unit go bad. The original helm that was in my boat was busted where it would not turn more than a few degrees. But since the original console was also smashed into pieces I figured that something catastrophic occurred to the boat. I never did get a good answer to that from the seller.

Get up under the console and remove the tube that the cable end extends into. Then detach the other end from the motor. Turn the steering wheel and extend the cable out both ways. See if it still has grease on it and no rust. It is more likely the motor end will be cruddy. If it is still clean you may be good to go. Or you can just get a new cable and know it is good for another 20 years.

A Teleflex webpage had a chart for measuring the cable.

[biggiefl]

If there is any play in the helm, replace it. The combo-kit [helm and cable] is not much more than just a cable.

[jimh]

If the boat is a 1989 15-footer, then the helm and cables of the mechanical steering are probably original with the boat.

I owned a 1976 15-footer, the first year of production. I sold it 20-years ago to a fellow with whom I am still in contact. As far as I know, he still has the original helm mechanical steering, now 44-years old, and still working. These mechanical cable single-cable systems are generally good for outboard engines up to V4 or about 115-HP. Turning a lightweight 60-HP two-stroke Yamaha engine is not much load for them.

If you are going to replace the helm, the physical dimensions of the replacement helm and the space available behind the console may dictate which model you will use more so than an anecdotal recommendation.

[Oldslowandugly]

If you are going to replace the helm, the physical dimensions of the replacement helm and the space available behind the console may dictate which model you will use more so than an anecdotal recommendation.

This is very true. The smallest is the Safe-T, which is why I used it. The Big-T probably won't fit in it's place. The hardest to fit is the Rack-and-Pinion style. The rack is very long and needs a lot of room behind to fit. I have installed brand new Safe-T systems twice. Each time I felt the steering was loose. Maybe that is how it is, or maybe it's me. I don't let it bother me anymore.

[Tailwind]

Thanks. All details were a help.

ASIDE ABOUT A DIFFERENT BOAT: On an inboard boat I used rack and pinion. The steering had a lot of torque at the wheel and it was a huge blessing--but there was plenty of space for the larger rack and pinion.