On my 2005 Dauntless 180 with a 2006 Mercury 135-HP engine the steering has always been hard to turn, more so at slow speeds, but also at cruising speeds. Now the steering is even harder to turn this Spring after recommissioning the boat.
The steering may have loosened up some with use.
[Give] suggestions.
2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
Hmmm...replace it.
Actually you did not state what type of steering it is. Is it cable? Hydraulic? If cable it needs to be replaced. You can try and grease it all up but that usually does not work on 15yr old cables. Have you been greasing the zirc fittings every season?
Actually you did not state what type of steering it is. Is it cable? Hydraulic? If cable it needs to be replaced. You can try and grease it all up but that usually does not work on 15yr old cables. Have you been greasing the zirc fittings every season?
On my 24th Whaler. Currently in the stable: 86 18' Outrage, 81 13' Sport(original owner), 87 11' Sport, 69 Squall(for sale cheap).
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
If your cable steering goes through the tilt tube of your outboard, it maybe binding in the tilt tube from old grease and dirt. I would remove the end from the tilt tube and check to see if the cable works fine detached; If so, you would need clean out the tilt tube of your outboard and remove all the old grease, dirt, etc and then lightly lube and reinstall into the tilt tube.
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
From a repair article I wrote on frozen steering -
The steering cable has two parts, an outer sleeve and an inner cable/rod. The sleeve bolts on to the starboard side of the engine and rod slides thru the tilt tube of the motor. The rod is connected to the motor by the steering arm. The tilt tube needs lubrication. Lack of lubrication and water can cause the tilt tube to corrode. This results in the rod sticking.
Warning: if your steering is stuck, do NOT try forcing the wheel to turn. There are small teeth in the helm (behind the wheel) that can break. If several teeth break, you will need to replace your helm.
Verify the steering cable is stuck by removing the steering arm from the rod. With your hands, grasp the motor and move it. If it moves, the steering cable is the source of the problem.
The easiest method that can free a slightly frozen rod is using the engine tilt motor to try to break the rod free. When the motor moves the rod does rotates slightly. Repeated tilting full up/down can break free a rod.
If still stuck, with the steering arm still disconnected, remove the port side nut from the engine bracket. Spray heavy amounts of penetrant like PB Blaster into the tilt tube. Keep some rags or towels handy. Let this soak for a few hours. Repeated spraying and letting it sit helps reduce the effort to break it free.
Wrap the flat end of the steering rod with a towel and use a wrench or adjustable and gently rotate up and down while having a helper put light pressure on the wheel.
If not successful, unbolt the starboard side nut that attaches the cable to the engine. With a block of wood and a hammer, drive the port side end of cable. A combination of force and spraying penetrant will break it free in 90% of the cases.
If the cable will still not budge, the last resort is to use heat. With a propane torch (not MAP or other high temperature fuels) apply heat to the tube. After a few minutes, whack the cable. Repeat the soaking and apply more heat and hitting the cable.
Unfrozen and Prevention:
Now that your cable is unstuck, you should take the time to make sure it doesn't happen again. If the boat is new to you or has not been serviced recently, removing the steering rod, cleaning the tube and reinstalling with fresh marine grease is recommended.
If your rod does not have a nut with a grease fitting on the port side,it is highly recommended you install one like the one shown in the photo above. One brand is Steersman Nut https://steersman.com/
The steering cable has two parts, an outer sleeve and an inner cable/rod. The sleeve bolts on to the starboard side of the engine and rod slides thru the tilt tube of the motor. The rod is connected to the motor by the steering arm. The tilt tube needs lubrication. Lack of lubrication and water can cause the tilt tube to corrode. This results in the rod sticking.
Warning: if your steering is stuck, do NOT try forcing the wheel to turn. There are small teeth in the helm (behind the wheel) that can break. If several teeth break, you will need to replace your helm.
Verify the steering cable is stuck by removing the steering arm from the rod. With your hands, grasp the motor and move it. If it moves, the steering cable is the source of the problem.
The easiest method that can free a slightly frozen rod is using the engine tilt motor to try to break the rod free. When the motor moves the rod does rotates slightly. Repeated tilting full up/down can break free a rod.
If still stuck, with the steering arm still disconnected, remove the port side nut from the engine bracket. Spray heavy amounts of penetrant like PB Blaster into the tilt tube. Keep some rags or towels handy. Let this soak for a few hours. Repeated spraying and letting it sit helps reduce the effort to break it free.
Wrap the flat end of the steering rod with a towel and use a wrench or adjustable and gently rotate up and down while having a helper put light pressure on the wheel.
If not successful, unbolt the starboard side nut that attaches the cable to the engine. With a block of wood and a hammer, drive the port side end of cable. A combination of force and spraying penetrant will break it free in 90% of the cases.
If the cable will still not budge, the last resort is to use heat. With a propane torch (not MAP or other high temperature fuels) apply heat to the tube. After a few minutes, whack the cable. Repeat the soaking and apply more heat and hitting the cable.
Unfrozen and Prevention:
Now that your cable is unstuck, you should take the time to make sure it doesn't happen again. If the boat is new to you or has not been serviced recently, removing the steering rod, cleaning the tube and reinstalling with fresh marine grease is recommended.
If your rod does not have a nut with a grease fitting on the port side,it is highly recommended you install one like the one shown in the photo above. One brand is Steersman Nut https://steersman.com/
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
Suggestions:
First, indicate the type of steering on the 2005 180 DAUNTLESS as either mechanical cable, hydraulic, or something else. Proper identification of the type of steering system will allow responses to be more useful.
Second, tell us what sort of water the boat is operated in, saltwater or fresh water.
Third, determine what element in the steering system is causing the steering to be hard to turn.
Method: generally the rotary movement of the steering wheel is translated into a linear movement of an actuator rod. The actuator rod is connected to the engine tiller. The connection is made by a DRAG LINK. To isolate the force needed to turn the engine and remove it from the steering system, remove the drag link. If the steering effort at the helm is still the same and still hard to turn, then the cause of the excessive force is in the steering system itself.
If after the drag link is removed, if the steering effort becomes much less than before, the cause is in the engine.
If the cause of the steering being hard to turn is in the steering system, and the system uses a mechanical cable, the cause can be from binding of the linear actuator cable in its cable housing, or binding of the linear actuator in the engine tilt tube, the hollow tube that is the axle or pivot for the engine tilt hinge; or binding in the helm where the rotary movement is converted to a linear movement.
If the cause of the difficulty in turning the wheel seems to be in the engine, the engine tiller tube may be corroded and have no lubrication. Self-repair of a corroded engine tiller tube may be beyond the scope of a boat owner who is not a good mechanic.
For all boats with remote steering, regular routine lubrication and maintenance is necessary to prevent the steering system from becoming hard to turn due to corrosion and loss of lubrication.
ASIDE: if the steering has always been hard to turn, you should have had this problem investigated when you purchased the boat. The seller could have been forced to provide a remedy in order to close the sale.
First, indicate the type of steering on the 2005 180 DAUNTLESS as either mechanical cable, hydraulic, or something else. Proper identification of the type of steering system will allow responses to be more useful.
Second, tell us what sort of water the boat is operated in, saltwater or fresh water.
Third, determine what element in the steering system is causing the steering to be hard to turn.
Method: generally the rotary movement of the steering wheel is translated into a linear movement of an actuator rod. The actuator rod is connected to the engine tiller. The connection is made by a DRAG LINK. To isolate the force needed to turn the engine and remove it from the steering system, remove the drag link. If the steering effort at the helm is still the same and still hard to turn, then the cause of the excessive force is in the steering system itself.
If after the drag link is removed, if the steering effort becomes much less than before, the cause is in the engine.
If the cause of the steering being hard to turn is in the steering system, and the system uses a mechanical cable, the cause can be from binding of the linear actuator cable in its cable housing, or binding of the linear actuator in the engine tilt tube, the hollow tube that is the axle or pivot for the engine tilt hinge; or binding in the helm where the rotary movement is converted to a linear movement.
If the cause of the difficulty in turning the wheel seems to be in the engine, the engine tiller tube may be corroded and have no lubrication. Self-repair of a corroded engine tiller tube may be beyond the scope of a boat owner who is not a good mechanic.
For all boats with remote steering, regular routine lubrication and maintenance is necessary to prevent the steering system from becoming hard to turn due to corrosion and loss of lubrication.
ASIDE: if the steering has always been hard to turn, you should have had this problem investigated when you purchased the boat. The seller could have been forced to provide a remedy in order to close the sale.
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
[The 20005 180 DAUNTLESS steering] is a cable system. [The boat runs] in the Chesapeake Bay saltwater. I will test the steering when I disconnect the [drag link between the engine tiller and the steering rod actuator].
I followed Phil's advice and ordered a Steersman Nut.
When I disconnected the [drag link between the engine tiller and the steering actuator] the engine rotates easily by hand, so [the cause of the steering being hard to turn] is in the cable steering. The [actuator] rod moves, but not easily.
I disconnected [the OUTPUT CABLE RETAINING NUT] on the starboard side [of the TILT TUBE] and sprayed Blaster silicone lubricant [toward the opening of the TILT TUBE]. Then I ran long pipe cleaners up [the TILT TUBE] into the [interior of the TILT TUBE. [Inside the TILT TUBE] there was very little grease. I removed a [GLAND NUT with seal from the TILT TUBE] on the port side and cleaned the [actuator] rod as I extended it. I reconnected [the drag link]. Then I pumped fresh marine grease into a fitting [on the front of the engine; see more about this fitting below].
The steering is still much tighter than it should be. I will repeat this procedure and allow the cleaning spray to sit
I am unable to pull out the actuator rod from the housing without much more effort clearing it from the stern compartment.
Q: Is [there] something in the steering system at the helm that can be inspected and cleaned?
Thank you again and please keep your responses coming.
I followed Phil's advice and ordered a Steersman Nut.
When I disconnected the [drag link between the engine tiller and the steering actuator] the engine rotates easily by hand, so [the cause of the steering being hard to turn] is in the cable steering. The [actuator] rod moves, but not easily.
I disconnected [the OUTPUT CABLE RETAINING NUT] on the starboard side [of the TILT TUBE] and sprayed Blaster silicone lubricant [toward the opening of the TILT TUBE]. Then I ran long pipe cleaners up [the TILT TUBE] into the [interior of the TILT TUBE. [Inside the TILT TUBE] there was very little grease. I removed a [GLAND NUT with seal from the TILT TUBE] on the port side and cleaned the [actuator] rod as I extended it. I reconnected [the drag link]. Then I pumped fresh marine grease into a fitting [on the front of the engine; see more about this fitting below].
The steering is still much tighter than it should be. I will repeat this procedure and allow the cleaning spray to sit
I am unable to pull out the actuator rod from the housing without much more effort clearing it from the stern compartment.
Q: Is [there] something in the steering system at the helm that can be inspected and cleaned?
Thank you again and please keep your responses coming.
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
tlsch377 wrote:When I disconnected the [drag link between the engine tiller and the steering actuator] the engine rotates easily by hand...
That is very good news for you because it indicates the cause of the hard-to-turn steering is probably rust and corrosion in the engine tilt tube that is causing the actuator rod to bind.
Single cable mechanical steering is really a very simple system, and all parts are in view. It should not be difficult to deduce where the binding is occuring.
At the helm: an INPUT SHAFT receives rotary motion. Inside the helm the rotary motion is converted to a linear motion. An OUTPUT CABLE conveys the linear motion to the stern. The length of the OUTPUT CABLE is chosen to fit the particular boat.
At the engine: the steering OUTPUT CABLE threads onto a fitting on the engine tilt mount called the TILT TUBE on the starboard side and is retained there by a large RETAINING NUT. An ACTUATOR ROD threads onto the end of the OUTPUT CABLE and passes through the TILT TUBE and exits on the port side. On the port side the ACTUATOR ROD passes through a GLAND NUT with a internal rubber seal that tries to prevent escape of lubricating grease from the tilt tube. At the end of the ACTUATOR ROD a fitting allows a DRAG LINK to be attached. The other end of the DRAG LINK connects to the ENGINE TILLER.
That is the entire mechanical system. It's not complicated. Only a rudimentary knowledge of mechanics and skill are needed to work on it. Leonardo di Vinci insight into mechanical systems is not necessary.
On some systems the actuator rod may not be threaded onto the end of the output cable; it might be integral with the output cable.
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
tlsch377 wrote:Is [there] something in the steering system at the helm that can be inspected and cleaned?
Check with the manufacturer for advice on any required periodic maintenance or lubrication. Generally the helm in mechanical steering systems is well sealed and won't need annual maintenance or lubrication.
Usually at the helm the OUTPUT CABLE can be disconnected from the helm. The STEERING WHEEL can be disconnected from INPUT SHAFT.
The helm may be damaged by excessive force applied to the INPUT SHAFT while trying to overcome resistance to movement of the OUTPUT CABLE due to some binding or other problem away from the helm itself.
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
I did get smoother travel in the OUTPUT CABLE after continued flushing of the engine TILT TUBE.
Mistakenly I thought a grease fitting on the front of engine lubricated the cable and rod inside the [TILT] tube. That fitting lubes the tilt hinge. Before reassembling I put a small coating of grease on the ACTUATOR ROD.
Mistakenly I thought a grease fitting on the front of engine lubricated the cable and rod inside the [TILT] tube. That fitting lubes the tilt hinge. Before reassembling I put a small coating of grease on the ACTUATOR ROD.
Re: 2005 180 DAUNTLESS Steering Always Hard To Turn
Regarding being able to extract the ACTUATOR ROD and the OUTPUT CABLE from its mounting to the engine TILT TUBE: in some boats due to the layout of the transom and surrounding elements of the boat, removing the steering OUTPUT CABLE from the engine TILT TUBE can be very difficult if not impossible after the engine is mounted to the transom. I can only infer that on those boats, the steering OUTPUT CABLE must have a removable ACTUATOR ROD, or, it not, perhaps some crafty method of installing the OUTPUT CABLE to the engine was accomplished before the engine was bolted onto the transom.
I am certainly not a mechanic, but one thing I have learned: when steel fasteners have been in place for 15 years and have rusted: in order to remove those fasteners you have to really want to remove those fasteners. By that I mean, it is not going to be easy. This comes from an old joke:
Q: How many therapists does it take to change a lightbulb?
Q: It only takes one, but the lightbulb has to really want to change.
I have gotten involved in a few mechanical projects where I met a rusted steel fastener I could not remove; I then turned over the project to a real mechanic, i.e., someone who would really want to remove that fastener.
If the real problem is a binding in the output cable, you can always decide to just saw off the cable, remove it, and replace it with a new one. A new cable cannot cost more than about $100--I hope. Of course, before you do that, make sure you can get a new cable, that the new cable can be fitted to the helm without having to overcome another huge problem, and that the new cable has a threaded-on actuator rod so you can actually install it at the engine without having to unmount the engine.
I am certainly not a mechanic, but one thing I have learned: when steel fasteners have been in place for 15 years and have rusted: in order to remove those fasteners you have to really want to remove those fasteners. By that I mean, it is not going to be easy. This comes from an old joke:
Q: How many therapists does it take to change a lightbulb?
Q: It only takes one, but the lightbulb has to really want to change.
I have gotten involved in a few mechanical projects where I met a rusted steel fastener I could not remove; I then turned over the project to a real mechanic, i.e., someone who would really want to remove that fastener.
If the real problem is a binding in the output cable, you can always decide to just saw off the cable, remove it, and replace it with a new one. A new cable cannot cost more than about $100--I hope. Of course, before you do that, make sure you can get a new cable, that the new cable can be fitted to the helm without having to overcome another huge problem, and that the new cable has a threaded-on actuator rod so you can actually install it at the engine without having to unmount the engine.