CONTINUOUSWAVE

Greetings. I recently acquired a 1977 13-footer and a trailer. I got the hull only— nothing else, no seats, no steering wheel, no engine, no rails. It needs some TLC which it will get. I have three sons ages 15, 13, and 11. The older two are into angling. I'll need help. I'll rely on your knowledge and expertise, and I'll ask questions.

The adventure begins.

Do you see any damage that jumps out in the several illustrations below?

The stencil number is 2B8510. What information can be taken from that?

Marlinmate wrote:The stencil number is 2B8510. What information can be taken from that?

See the FAQ for advice on how to deduce information from the stencil number.

Marlinmate wrote:Do you see any damage that jumps out in the several illustrations below?

Fig. 1. Your driveway looks like it is in good condition.
Fig. 2. That big GM SUV should have no problem towing the 13-footer.
Fig. 3. Some dirt around the drains; it should come off with some soap and water.
Fig. 4. Looks like a crack and there has been some leaking of brown goo from the hull. That needs to be fixed.
Fig 5, Fig. 6, and Fig. 7. Some repaired damage by prior owner. Fig. 7 looks rough and should be redone.
Fig. 8. Good to see a youngster working on the boat.
Fig. 9. Dirty transom with some superficial damage. See the FAQ for advice on standard engine mounting hole location and how to handle the lower engine mounting holes for a shallow spashwell.
Fig. 10. The federal Hull Identification Tag, attached with rivets. Get the number off the tag and decode according to the FAQ. That there is a tag means the boat is at least a 1972 or newer model.
Fig. 11 and Fig. 12. More shoddy repairs.

The hull needs a thorough scrubbing. First items to investigate are any damages below the waterline. Also check the engine splash well drains for proper sealing. See the FAQ for advice on replacement of drain tubes.

If there is not excessive gel coat stress cracking and crazing, the gel coat may be worth keeping. It can be restored to a nice shine with some work. If the gel coat is too far gone, you may have to paint the hull. Don't paint without first looking into the gel coat refurbishing. Gel coat can be brought back if it is not full of too many stress cracks or badly dried out and cracking everywhere.

2B=13 footer and 8510 means it is the 8510 hull laid up in this style.

For advice on making repairs to a Boston Whaler boat's Unibond hull, read three articles:

Repairing Hull Damage the Whaler Way
by Taylor Clark

Instructions--Hull Patch Kits
by Boston Whaler

The Epoxy Cure
by Jim Hebert

The 13 is a great hull. I've owned a half dozen of them over the years. First things to consider doing:

1. Ensure all titling and paperwork for registration is proper. Restoring a boat and later finding out there's a paperwork glitch can be stressful.

2. Weigh it. Determine if waterlogged or extent of any water intrusion or added weight. This website has charts that indicate bare hull weights depending on year. If one of mine were heavy, I've had occasion to drill small hole in bottom and allow water to weep and drain out.

3. Consider adding bronze oarlocks if it doesn't have already. I wanted my kids to learn to row ours a while to learn and to later better appreciate a small engine/ A 13-footer rows like a champ. Consider OAK oars. Oak oar cost more but hold up better than lighter types.

Take your time and enjoy the project. Ask questions on this website. The folks here have lots of knowledge and ideas.

Best, Mav

[The 13-foot hull restoration is] coming along nicely. [I will] soon pick up [the repainted hull] from the painter. [The painter used] Awlgrip Snow White on the exterior and Awlgrip Whaler Blue on the interior.


[Moderator's note: the above image of the hull is a very small image. If you want to illustrate the boat hull repairs and the new paint job, consider getting a better image to use as an illustration. The forum will be pleased to host images up to 900 x 900 pixels and up to one-quarter-million bytes in file size.]

A wood kit has been ordered from Bob in MA.

[A new topic discussing capacity plates has been separated and is now a new thread in THE GAM.--Moderator]

Your going to be very happy with AWLGRIP paint. I used AWLGRIP paint on the interior of my boat. AWLGRIP paintis incredibly durable. [AWLGRIP paint is v]ery expensive but worth the extra cost.

Now [the cost of restoration of rough-hull 13-foot is down to] nickel and dime items:

• Rub rails (white with black Insert)
• Wire, connectors. heat shrink, olde, and AWG-14 wore for [navigation lamps]
• [combined sidelight lamp] converted to LED
• [white all-round pole lamp]--I already have the stanchions but need the bushing and to convert to LED
• Decals, Capacity decals, Stenciled number
• Fuse and power distribution with Blue Seas panel and cover to be hidden this under the console
• Boca Tech Mini LED Switch (expensive, but small, sleek, and effective)
• USB Ports (for iphone and USB Speaker usage)
• Battery Need to research this
• Battery Box - probably going with the trolling motor battery box that allows for external hook up of live well and trolling motor
• Fuel tank

I was able to polish the brass Norman Pin and lifting eyes for bow and stern--saved money there.

It's a toss up between a Yamaha 40-HP Yamaha and a Suzuki 40-HP. The Yamaha costs more but weighs 15-lbs [more]. The Suzuki comes in white; the Yamaha doesn't come in white.

I will buy Teleflex No-Feed-Back steering and use a five-spoke wheel with knob. I wanted Baystar [hydraulic steering] , but [on a 13-foot boat with a 40-HP engine the use of hydraulic steering] would be [cost] excessive [and probably unnecessary--moderator].

Marlinmate wrote:...AWG-14 wire for [navigation lamp wiring]

Use of 14-AWG wire for the navigation lamps may be a bit excessive. Use of 16-AWG should be adequate, and particularly if you convert the lamps to using LED bulbs. You can save a few dimes on the less expensive wire.

I used a Blue Seas part number 5056 water-resistant fuse block in a re-wire project--a well-designed and well-built product.

Personally owning a Suzuki DF40 on my 1981 SPORT 13, I recommend the Suzuki 30-HP with power trim and tilt. The difference between 32 and 35-MPH is not worth the expense or the weight [of a different engine choice that is more expensive and heavier].

How far forward is too far forward to move the seats and console?

Marlinmate wrote:How far forward is too far forward to move the seats and console?

Not more than six inches.

I moved the interior of my 1966 Sport forward about six inches and it seemed just right.

What is the purpose of moving the seats forward? Does it balance out the boat better? Run smoother? Appropriate when using a larger motor, like 40 hp?

I moved the interior forward to get on plane more easily and to maintain it at a lower speed, and to reduce purposing (where the bow oscillates from side-to-side). When my kids were small I could use them as ballast forward to accomplish the same thing. And yes, moving weight forward could compensate for a larger and heavier motor.