Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
Vance's Revenge
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Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby Vance's Revenge » Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:04 pm

Here is an example [of how the] drain sump on my 22 Revenge has been modified [in order to improve the way water on the deck can drain overboard and how fiberglass tubes in place of brass tubes have been used in those modifications].

22-footHullSumpAnnotations.jpg
Fig. 1. Modified rigging tunnel on 22-foot hull. The original illustration has been modified by the addition of calluout to identify what is being illustrated according to the lengthy narrative that describes the modification.
22-footHullSumpAnnotations.jpg (31.9 KiB) Viewed 2961 times


This may look a little confusing to the guys that have removed their original factory plywood hinged sump cover. This picture was taken standing outside starboard side. The wall I made to block off the starboard rigging tunnel (can't do this on an Outrage because you need to utilize the rigging tunnel) has a inspection and drain tube sanded flush. The original drain tube out the bottom replaced and sanded flush to drain better because there is no longer the flange to get into the way. The original brass drain tube for the fuel line was replaced with a fiberglass tube left slightly long and not sanded flush. Similar to a flange on brass tubes.

The other tubes were all sanded flush. Again, the wall on the left with the drain tube that goes out the transom of the boat does not exist on any other boats. I made that wall to prevent water over the stern from gaining access to the inside of the boat.

This picture of the original drain sump was taken standing on the outside of the boat on the starboard side straight down . The 1 1/4" drain hole in the middle of the picture is the original drain hole replaced with a fiberglass tube that drains out the bottom to the sea. The tube in the upper middle is the original tube where the factory routed the fuel line through from the live well. That is one tube that I didn't sand flush when I changed it from brass to fiberglass because it is not used as a drain.

The shallow wall on the upper right is at the beginning of the starboard rigging tunnel is not original. It looks factory but I made that wall level with the top of the rigging tunnel to prevent water from the drain sump gaining access to the rigging tunnel when the sump plug is removed. The rigging tunnel is not necessary on my Revenge because I ran all the rigging hidden under the gunwales instead of the rigging tunnel. When I installed the deck over the live well it also covers the rigging tunnel so I sealed the top of my new wall as well. This way no water can get under the deck. I installed a 1" fiberglass tube sanded flush at the bottom (in the picture) and use a standard 1" plug for inspection. Exactly the same process as the 1" fiberglass inspection tube I installed between the original live well and fuel tank cavity.

The drain sump still works as designed, and so far after one season this has worked perfectly. When pulling the inspection plug, no water has ever got into the rigging tunnel.

The wall on the left with the exposed drain tube is the gunwale height bulkhead I made at the stern to prevent water over the transom gaining access to the cockpit. There is only one of the 5 drain tubes for that bulkhead showing in the picture.
The reason I posted the picture is that it shows how nicely the fiberglass tubes look when sanded smooth with the surface and also how they drain better than brass tubes because there is no lip and O ring.

This is important:
If people do not replace the foam when they replace their fuel tank. When the drain sump is flooded, water will get into their fuel tank area through the original drain at the top of the fuel tank into the starboard rigging tunnel. Because the drain sump also floods the starboard rigging tunnel as well.

In fact, if they don't install a drain tube at the bottom of the fuel tank cavity into the live well, the fuel tank cavity with no foam and no way to drain, could trap water and fill over time all the way up to drain tube at the top of the fuel tank.

Because of the changes I made to the drain sump/starboard rigging tunnel this cannot happen in my Revenge.

jimh
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Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby jimh » Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:18 pm

A substantial problem with the proposed modification is the loss of the rigging tunnel for carrying cables between the helm and the stern. On my REVENGE 22 W-T WD boat the rigging tunnel is filled with the hydraulic steering cables and the SONAR transducer cable. I have moved all the other electrical cables out of the rigging tunnel to run under the starboard gunwale. I left the SONAR cable in the rigging tunnel to maintain it isolated physically from all other cables so that there would not be any ingress into the SONAR cable from the other electrical cables of any noise or interference.

Moving the hydraulic steering cables out of the rigging tunnel would be very impractical for me. I would have to buy all new cables with much longer lengths to accomplish that.

On my REVENGE there are two open drains on the cockpit deck near the helm area that drain into the rigging tunnels below them. If I were to close the starboard rigging tunnel at the stern end, water would collect in the rigging tunnel.

Stayinstrewn
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Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby Stayinstrewn » Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:34 pm

I like the fiberglass drain tubes. I’m taking [hull modifications] a step further and just glassing over the drains. The rigging tubes and forward locker on my 1979 OUTRAGE 22 drain into the main sump anyway.

I think you’ll actually find that you want [to re-install the] clam shells in front of the [through hull drains which are on the running surface of the hull bottom. The clam shells] help create suction [of the water overboard into the sea].

I plan to use one fiberglass tube to go from the main bilge, through the engine splash well, to exit out the transom.
Wasque - 1979 Outrage 22, Honda 225

Vance's Revenge
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Location: Northern California

Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby Vance's Revenge » Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:01 pm

jimh--you are 100% correct [about the rigging tunnel].

My Revenge is a 1980 with the single floor cover. I had to remove both the helm cabinets to remove the floor cover to get access to the fuel tank. The boat was basically a shell. Everything was removed, repaired, and rewired.

I did fill the access hole--my REVENGE had only one--you mentioned in the floor at the helm. In order that the cabinets never have to be removed again to gain access to the fuel tank, I cut the deck over the fuel tank into two pieces similar to the change the factory made to the newer models.

For the rigging to the main motor (225 Evinrude) and stern light, all wires and both hydraulic steering lines go down under the starboard gunwale. It is tight but fits.

To rig my 9.9 Yamaha High Thrust trolling motor all wiring travels under the Port Side gunwale. I use a dual binnacle control at the helm. One side for the main motor and one side for the trolling motor. Both motors are on separate trim/tilt switches and the trolling motor steering is with a tie bar to the main motor.

You mentioned interference with the transducer cable and you are 100% correct. That is important. Which is why I ran my transducer cable under the port side gunwale away from the tachometer wires on the main motor. The trolling motor doesn't cause any interference with my electronics which I mounted over the port cabinet.

This process can only be done on Revenge models during a major rebuild such as replacing the fuel tank. But this is far better than running the rigging down under the floor. This way nothing comes out of the drain sump hatch to the engines. My drain sump now has a quick release deck plate for access.
Last edited by Vance's Revenge on Wed Nov 25, 2020 9:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.

jimh
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Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby jimh » Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:29 pm

Heya Vance--I hope you liked my annotation of your illustration with callouts. I was having a hard time visualizing what was being shown.

Your modification to the rigging tunnel end looks very nicely done. Really, all your work looks very nice.

Vance's Revenge
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Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby Vance's Revenge » Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:45 pm

jimh wrote:Heya Vance--I hope you liked my annotation of your illustration with callouts. I was having a hard time visualizing what was being shown.

Your modification to the rigging tunnel end looks very nicely done. Really, all your work looks very nice.


Jim, you did a terrific job. This is a terrific forum that helped me tremendously during the 5 years it took me to rebuild my Revenge.
Thank you for all that you do.

If my boat was a classic car it would be called a retro mod. I tried to utilize the terrific original hull design, update it with modern technology and maintain the vintage appeal.

For me the Revenge models don't get the respect they deserve. They do have less room for people, but are dryer to operate and more seaworthy compared to the Outrage models.

jimh
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Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby jimh » Wed Nov 25, 2020 5:42 pm

Vance--how do you close the fiberglass drain in the cockpit sump area adjacent to the sump pump? Does a standard 1-inch plug fit the fiberglass tube you used to replace the brass tube?

[ASIDE: I fixed the callout error in Figure 1 as you advised.}

Vance's Revenge
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:37 am
Location: Northern California

Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby Vance's Revenge » Wed Nov 25, 2020 9:08 pm

jimh wrote:Vance--how do you close the fiberglass drain in the cockpit sump area adjacent to the sump pump? Does a standard 1-inch plug fit the fiberglass tube you used to replace the brass tube?

[ASIDE: I fixed the callout error in Figure 1 as you advised.}


I replaced all of the original Brass tubes in the hull with fiberglass tubes that have the same ID so all the original rubber drain plug sizes are the same and all of the fiberglass tubes have new stainless clam shells at the bottom exactly the same as original. The additional fiberglass tubes I installed for inspections through the the wall of both the original fish box to the fuel tank cavity and from the drain sump into the starboard rigging tunnel are 1" ID and use standard 1" rubber drain plugs.

The only difference to the outside of the hull from original is an additional 1 1/2" drain tube and clam shell under the original bait tank for the Live Bait Tank drain. And the two outside drain tubes from the aft bulkhead covered with ball scuppers at the stern that come out just above the waterline while the boat is at rest.

The only tubes I threaded are where a fitting was needed for plumbing either the wash down pump supply or the drain for the removeable live bait tank mounted on the deck.

The 5 fiberglass drain tubes along the bottom of the stern wall are 1 1/4" but do not need plugs because I have ball scuppers on all of them on the stern side.
The deck is fully sealed and drains out the 5 tubes at the rear. Or, if necessary I can also very quickly pull the quick release deck plate and the plug in the drain sump. But, really all I use the drain sump for now is washing the interior and sand off the deck while on the trailer.

jimh
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Re: Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining

Postby jimh » Thu Nov 26, 2020 7:52 am

When you constructed the new bulkhead (or wall) across the aft end of the cockpit, you were very wise to add the five drains that provide a means for water on the cockpit deck to drain aft, through the bulkhead, and into the sea.

On my REVENGE 22 Walk-Through Whaler Drive, the original notched transom is gone; there is a full transom and no engine splash well. To drain water from the deck to the sea, Boston Whaler added two drains, one on each side and outboard of the original splash well location. Those drains are large; I think they are 3-inch tube. I have not measured them precisely. If the cockpit of a Whaler Drive boat is full of water, those two large drains will provide a reasonably fast way for it to drain overboard--not quite as fast as an open transom, but then with a closed transom you won't be as likely to be swamped by a wave from astern. The output of the drains is very well concealed: the drain openings in the full transom are at the portion of the Whaler Drive which has an air gap between the transom and the Whaler Drive. Typically with the added buoyancy of the Whaler Drive, these drains will remain above the boat's water line--they certainly do on my boat with a single engine, but with twin engines the boat may sit more deeply in the water. The proximity of the Whaler Drive to the drain--the gap is less than 2-inches--may affect the rate that water can drain out. I can't offer any observations on that because we have never had any seawater come aboard the boat and into the cockpit other than a few drops of spray now and then.