Modifying the 22-foot Hull for Better Control of Water Draining
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:04 pm
Here is an example [of how the] drain sump on my 22 Revenge has been modified [in order to improve the way water on the deck can drain overboard and how fiberglass tubes in place of brass tubes have been used in those modifications].
This may look a little confusing to the guys that have removed their original factory plywood hinged sump cover. This picture was taken standing outside starboard side. The wall I made to block off the starboard rigging tunnel (can't do this on an Outrage because you need to utilize the rigging tunnel) has a inspection and drain tube sanded flush. The original drain tube out the bottom replaced and sanded flush to drain better because there is no longer the flange to get into the way. The original brass drain tube for the fuel line was replaced with a fiberglass tube left slightly long and not sanded flush. Similar to a flange on brass tubes.
The other tubes were all sanded flush. Again, the wall on the left with the drain tube that goes out the transom of the boat does not exist on any other boats. I made that wall to prevent water over the stern from gaining access to the inside of the boat.
This picture of the original drain sump was taken standing on the outside of the boat on the starboard side straight down . The 1 1/4" drain hole in the middle of the picture is the original drain hole replaced with a fiberglass tube that drains out the bottom to the sea. The tube in the upper middle is the original tube where the factory routed the fuel line through from the live well. That is one tube that I didn't sand flush when I changed it from brass to fiberglass because it is not used as a drain.
The shallow wall on the upper right is at the beginning of the starboard rigging tunnel is not original. It looks factory but I made that wall level with the top of the rigging tunnel to prevent water from the drain sump gaining access to the rigging tunnel when the sump plug is removed. The rigging tunnel is not necessary on my Revenge because I ran all the rigging hidden under the gunwales instead of the rigging tunnel. When I installed the deck over the live well it also covers the rigging tunnel so I sealed the top of my new wall as well. This way no water can get under the deck. I installed a 1" fiberglass tube sanded flush at the bottom (in the picture) and use a standard 1" plug for inspection. Exactly the same process as the 1" fiberglass inspection tube I installed between the original live well and fuel tank cavity.
The drain sump still works as designed, and so far after one season this has worked perfectly. When pulling the inspection plug, no water has ever got into the rigging tunnel.
The wall on the left with the exposed drain tube is the gunwale height bulkhead I made at the stern to prevent water over the transom gaining access to the cockpit. There is only one of the 5 drain tubes for that bulkhead showing in the picture.
The reason I posted the picture is that it shows how nicely the fiberglass tubes look when sanded smooth with the surface and also how they drain better than brass tubes because there is no lip and O ring.
This is important:
If people do not replace the foam when they replace their fuel tank. When the drain sump is flooded, water will get into their fuel tank area through the original drain at the top of the fuel tank into the starboard rigging tunnel. Because the drain sump also floods the starboard rigging tunnel as well.
In fact, if they don't install a drain tube at the bottom of the fuel tank cavity into the live well, the fuel tank cavity with no foam and no way to drain, could trap water and fill over time all the way up to drain tube at the top of the fuel tank.
Because of the changes I made to the drain sump/starboard rigging tunnel this cannot happen in my Revenge.
This may look a little confusing to the guys that have removed their original factory plywood hinged sump cover. This picture was taken standing outside starboard side. The wall I made to block off the starboard rigging tunnel (can't do this on an Outrage because you need to utilize the rigging tunnel) has a inspection and drain tube sanded flush. The original drain tube out the bottom replaced and sanded flush to drain better because there is no longer the flange to get into the way. The original brass drain tube for the fuel line was replaced with a fiberglass tube left slightly long and not sanded flush. Similar to a flange on brass tubes.
The other tubes were all sanded flush. Again, the wall on the left with the drain tube that goes out the transom of the boat does not exist on any other boats. I made that wall to prevent water over the stern from gaining access to the inside of the boat.
This picture of the original drain sump was taken standing on the outside of the boat on the starboard side straight down . The 1 1/4" drain hole in the middle of the picture is the original drain hole replaced with a fiberglass tube that drains out the bottom to the sea. The tube in the upper middle is the original tube where the factory routed the fuel line through from the live well. That is one tube that I didn't sand flush when I changed it from brass to fiberglass because it is not used as a drain.
The shallow wall on the upper right is at the beginning of the starboard rigging tunnel is not original. It looks factory but I made that wall level with the top of the rigging tunnel to prevent water from the drain sump gaining access to the rigging tunnel when the sump plug is removed. The rigging tunnel is not necessary on my Revenge because I ran all the rigging hidden under the gunwales instead of the rigging tunnel. When I installed the deck over the live well it also covers the rigging tunnel so I sealed the top of my new wall as well. This way no water can get under the deck. I installed a 1" fiberglass tube sanded flush at the bottom (in the picture) and use a standard 1" plug for inspection. Exactly the same process as the 1" fiberglass inspection tube I installed between the original live well and fuel tank cavity.
The drain sump still works as designed, and so far after one season this has worked perfectly. When pulling the inspection plug, no water has ever got into the rigging tunnel.
The wall on the left with the exposed drain tube is the gunwale height bulkhead I made at the stern to prevent water over the transom gaining access to the cockpit. There is only one of the 5 drain tubes for that bulkhead showing in the picture.
The reason I posted the picture is that it shows how nicely the fiberglass tubes look when sanded smooth with the surface and also how they drain better than brass tubes because there is no lip and O ring.
This is important:
If people do not replace the foam when they replace their fuel tank. When the drain sump is flooded, water will get into their fuel tank area through the original drain at the top of the fuel tank into the starboard rigging tunnel. Because the drain sump also floods the starboard rigging tunnel as well.
In fact, if they don't install a drain tube at the bottom of the fuel tank cavity into the live well, the fuel tank cavity with no foam and no way to drain, could trap water and fill over time all the way up to drain tube at the top of the fuel tank.
Because of the changes I made to the drain sump/starboard rigging tunnel this cannot happen in my Revenge.