1985 SPORT 15 Deck Repair: Best Adhesive; Best Sealant
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 9:29 am
[In regard to 1985 SPORT 15 whose deck was soft and was repaired as described below;]
Q1: what is the best product and best method to stick down or adhere or glue the replacement plywood reinforcement pieces to the foam before putting back in place the fiberglass deck?
Q2: what is the best product and the best method for sealing holes in the fiberglass cockpit deck sheet?
Q3: what is the best product and best method to re-install the fiberglass deck that was cut out for repair of the underlying wood?
Q4; what is the best product and best method to seal [the joint lines between the original deck and the fiberglass deck section that was cut out]?
BACK STORY--THE SHORT VERSION
I originally wrote a much too long description of how I’ve used and kept my 1985 SPORT 15. The above is a seriously edited version.
[Moderator's note, I deleted even more information not cogent to the repair topic from the short version.]
In 2004 I bought [a 1985 SPORT 15 boat] in in South Florida with no trailer. The hull was in good and usable shape.
[The SPORT 15 boat] has been generally cared for but poorly stored both in the water and on trailer.
In mid-summer 2020 I was finally able to get the boat under a roof so it could dry out. A one-foot-square of the fiberglass floor was cut out to allow drying. The plywood in that area was mush.
After hatch cover, console, seats, and side support wood were removed, a continued inspection revealed much more softness and several areas where brown water would push out of holes in deck.
I decided take up the complete non-skid floor area. I used a Roto-zip tool and straightedge guides to take up the fiberglass. Much of [the wood under the deck] had rotted plywood and was easy to remove; some needed real encouragement to come loose using various thin blades to affect release.
After the fiberglass was up I preceded to remove all the bad plywood. Most was easily done with a wide putty knife with other requiring more encouragement. Finally, again using the Rotozip bit set at 1/2-inch, I cut out rectangular sections of the plywood until I got to good areas.
As I took up the bad plywood I realized the foam was dry and firm and in good shape. I purchased marine grade AB plywood and have cut and fit replacement pieces for the damaged areas.
Q1: what is the best product and best method to stick down or adhere or glue the replacement plywood reinforcement pieces to the foam before putting back in place the fiberglass deck?
Q2: what is the best product and the best method for sealing holes in the fiberglass cockpit deck sheet?
Q3: what is the best product and best method to re-install the fiberglass deck that was cut out for repair of the underlying wood?
Q4; what is the best product and best method to seal [the joint lines between the original deck and the fiberglass deck section that was cut out]?
BACK STORY--THE SHORT VERSION
I originally wrote a much too long description of how I’ve used and kept my 1985 SPORT 15. The above is a seriously edited version.
[Moderator's note, I deleted even more information not cogent to the repair topic from the short version.]
In 2004 I bought [a 1985 SPORT 15 boat] in in South Florida with no trailer. The hull was in good and usable shape.
[The SPORT 15 boat] has been generally cared for but poorly stored both in the water and on trailer.
In mid-summer 2020 I was finally able to get the boat under a roof so it could dry out. A one-foot-square of the fiberglass floor was cut out to allow drying. The plywood in that area was mush.
After hatch cover, console, seats, and side support wood were removed, a continued inspection revealed much more softness and several areas where brown water would push out of holes in deck.
I decided take up the complete non-skid floor area. I used a Roto-zip tool and straightedge guides to take up the fiberglass. Much of [the wood under the deck] had rotted plywood and was easy to remove; some needed real encouragement to come loose using various thin blades to affect release.
After the fiberglass was up I preceded to remove all the bad plywood. Most was easily done with a wide putty knife with other requiring more encouragement. Finally, again using the Rotozip bit set at 1/2-inch, I cut out rectangular sections of the plywood until I got to good areas.
As I took up the bad plywood I realized the foam was dry and firm and in good shape. I purchased marine grade AB plywood and have cut and fit replacement pieces for the damaged areas.