Make Deck Cover for Fuel Tank Cavity

[Dashriprock]

I have a 1985 Outrage. I am in process of repairing the fuel tank, which has led me to re-doing the deck cover. Give me advice on how to make the deck cover. The deck cover is primaily non skid with a one-inch edge of flat gel coat. Deck cover is about 4-feet by 9-feet. Thanks

[Driller]

Non-skid can be a little tough to refinish. The Boston Whaler non-skid patterns are admirable so I like to keep them when possible. What I've done with success is lightly abrade the surface with something that will allow the gel coat to bite (or knit, as we used to say in the old days). A body and fender guy told me to use Comet with a stiff brush. On one boat I actually used sifted beach sand with a wire brush; I wet it and scrubbed the hell out of it in every direction - it worked great and held up well. The downside is that with the resulting high gloss finish, the nonskid will be shiny and maybe a bit less grippy (?) than when original. I run the mixture a little thinner and make fewer passes over the skid areas. I'm sure Hawkeye has a simple procedure or product for a flat finish, when desired. If nothing else, typical gelcoat wax, or tack free additives often result in a flat finish.

[jimh]

Are you seeking advice about making a new deck? Or just refurbishing the existing deck cover? To make a completely new deck cover would be quite an undertaking. Even just applying a new top coat of resin to an existing deck cover would be a big project. Generally the problems with fuel tank cavity deck covers are with the wood reinforcement, not with the laminate and surface gel coat. Please explain more about your project.

[Binkster]

This is not as difficult as some would make it out to be. The deck is made up of two parts, the fiberglass top part and a plywood core. The plywood core is most likely waterlogged and rotten and must be removed by whatever means necessary. Then lay the deck upside down on a FLAT surface, and cut and fit a double layer of 3/8-inch DIVINYCELL CROSS-LINK FOAM CORE PVC board (don't use plywood), and laminate the first piece to the underside of the deck. Then cover it with a layer of woven roven, followed by another piece of the DIVINYCELL CROSS-LINK FOAM CORE PVC board, staggering the joint. After this is done, cover the entire underside with a piece of 3/4-ounce glass mat. Sand it fairly smooth, and re-coat top and bottom with gelcoat or two part paint

http://www.fibreglast.com/product/vinyl-foam-5-lb-density/Foam

rich

[Dashriprock]

Rich gave great information. Thanks.

Did you do anything special for the areas where the center console and helm seat are screwed in?

Is the new material strong enough to secure the console, helm, and leaning post?

I am curious to know the strength of the new material you used in place of plywood. I also have a ski pylon attached behind the helm seat.

[Binkster]

I would glass a plywood pad under any fittings that would be attached to the cover, and bolt the fittings to the deck. Contact the core material manufacturer for further advice.

rich

[Don McIntyre - MI]

In talking with other owners over the years, and my own experience, I think most of the tank covers rot beginning along the screw holes, the fuel gauge or the hole for the gas line. Or all three areas. If you think about it, it makes sense; the factory probably did not seal or epoxy those areas, during manufacture and installation.

If you don't use the DIVNYCELL FOAM PVC BOARD (or other composite as Rich suggests) and use plywood, I'd recommend sealing the above mentioned holes with one or two coats of epoxy before installation.

Regarding attempting to seal the screw holes, drill the initial holes oversize, tape the bottom and fill with epoxy. Let harden overnight then drill the correct size. That way no chance of water penetration.

Regards - Don

[jimh]

Did you do anything special for the areas where the center console and helm seat are screwed in?

I don't recall anyone mentioning that the DIVINYCELL FOAM PVC BOARD is particularly good at holding screw fasteners. I would provide additional embedded reinforcement for holding screw fasteners in areas where you know in advance you will be fastening components to the deck which will have very heavy loading on the fasteners. At Boston Whaler they are using materials like Whaler Board or G10 FIBERGLASS BOARD.

G10 FIBERGLASS BOARD has the following property: "makes excellent non-corrosive backing plates for high load deck hardware."

Here is one source:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=8758

If you use a material like this, you probably want to use a tap to thread the material to accept your fastener. I don't think you could use a standard self-tapping wood screw with G10 FIBERGLASS BOARD.

An aluminum plate could also be used as an embedded reinforcement. Boston Whaler uses that approach, too.

[Dashriprock]

Gents. Thx for input. [Changed topic to introduce three new topics. Please start new threads for each of these new topics.--jimh]

[jimh]

It has not been made clear if the new deck cover is being made from scratch, or if the term "Make Deck Cover" really means to refurbish the existing deck cover. Can we please clarify what the first topic was? Thanks.