I need to take the drill to my Montauk to get a electronics cable to the top of the console. The hole needed is about 3/4-inch or 22-mm diameter. A few questions:
What is the recommended location for this hole? Naturally one would want it on the top of console, but I have seen some pictures showing a hole on side, by steering wheel. What are the benefits of a hole on the side by the steering wheel?
Drilling techniques: I do not know anything except start small and use masking tape.
Provisions for waterproofing pass-through hole: is a makeshift grommet in order?
Between installing GPS combo and transducer, fixing a small transom scratch, touching up bottom paint, getting acquainted with mooring techniques, fixing small dinghy, looking at both the calendar and the outside temperature, my boating life is a bit overwhelming.
At least when the boat will be in the water, I can then work on the trailer bunks--argh!
Spouse wised up and picked up mah-jongg as a hobby (which now messes up boating plans!).
MONTAUK 17: Drilling Console for Wiring
Re: MONTAUK 17: Drilling Console for Wiring
When drilling a 3/4-inch diameter hole into a fiberglass laminate, you will probably need to use a hole saw. As you mentioned, use masking tape to cover the gel coat. The goal is to avoid creating any cracks in the gel coat as you cut the hole. Generally that won't be likely to happen with a hole saw. Just drill carefully and patiently. Watch out for the backside of the laminate breaking away. Go very slowly as the hole depth reaches the other side of the console laminate.
I do not see a particular advantage in locating a hole for electrical or electronic cables on the sides of the console and then running the cables up and across the top of the console to the electronic devices. To me that just seems to create more distraction and attention on the cables.
If the cable connects to a device like a chart plotter, I assume the chart plotter is mounted to a bracket. Often the brackets have a hole in their base center which is intended to be a passageway for cables coming through the mounting surface to reach the device. Using that location allows the electronic device in the bracket to act as a rain shield for the hole. Also, the base of the mounting bracket can be sealed to the console surface, forming a nice gasket around the hole and preventing water the might accumulate on the console surface from draining into the hole.
You can also use electrician's putty to caulk or seal the hole. This is often referred to as Dum-Dum, a clay putty used to seal electrical cable entrance holes in many electrical installations. You can find it at most any hardware store.
And here is my most important advice: do not assume the cable that is going to connect to the device, which, of course, has a connector on the end, must be passed up through the hole from below. If the other end of the cable is just a fan out of wires, you can make a much smaller hole and pass the non-connector end of the cable down through the hole. Once you wire the fan out end of the cable to its destination the cable is captive in the hole. If you really must remove the cable from the hole, you would have to disconnect the wiring end, but how often will you do that?
I do not see a particular advantage in locating a hole for electrical or electronic cables on the sides of the console and then running the cables up and across the top of the console to the electronic devices. To me that just seems to create more distraction and attention on the cables.
If the cable connects to a device like a chart plotter, I assume the chart plotter is mounted to a bracket. Often the brackets have a hole in their base center which is intended to be a passageway for cables coming through the mounting surface to reach the device. Using that location allows the electronic device in the bracket to act as a rain shield for the hole. Also, the base of the mounting bracket can be sealed to the console surface, forming a nice gasket around the hole and preventing water the might accumulate on the console surface from draining into the hole.
You can also use electrician's putty to caulk or seal the hole. This is often referred to as Dum-Dum, a clay putty used to seal electrical cable entrance holes in many electrical installations. You can find it at most any hardware store.
And here is my most important advice: do not assume the cable that is going to connect to the device, which, of course, has a connector on the end, must be passed up through the hole from below. If the other end of the cable is just a fan out of wires, you can make a much smaller hole and pass the non-connector end of the cable down through the hole. Once you wire the fan out end of the cable to its destination the cable is captive in the hole. If you really must remove the cable from the hole, you would have to disconnect the wiring end, but how often will you do that?
Re: MONTAUK 17: Drilling Console for Wiring
One more hint: if several cables with connectors attached must pass through a hole, the order in which you insert the cables can affect how large the hole must be to permit them to all be passed through. To minimize the hole diameter, pass the cable with the largest diameter connector through the hole first. Then pass the cable with the next largest diameter connector through the hole. Usually the smaller connector will still pass through the hole even though the cable of the first connector is reducing the hole diameter.
If you have several cables that all have the same diameter and must pass through a common hole, you can also minimize the diameter of the hole by making the hole non-circular. First you use a hole saw to make a circular hole whose diameter just allows the connectors to pass. Then you drill a second much smaller hole, just large enough to accommodate the cable--not the connector--tangential to the big circle. This hole will be perhaps 1/4-inch diameter. Use a file to connect these two circular holes, making a notch or keyhole in the larger circular hole. Then you again pass the connectors through the hole in order of largest-diameter connector first. You tuck the cable from that first connector into the notch. Now a second connector of the same diameter can pass through the hole. This avoids having to increase the diameter of the hole to be the diameter of the largest connector plus the diameter of the largest cable.
If you have several cables that all have the same diameter and must pass through a common hole, you can also minimize the diameter of the hole by making the hole non-circular. First you use a hole saw to make a circular hole whose diameter just allows the connectors to pass. Then you drill a second much smaller hole, just large enough to accommodate the cable--not the connector--tangential to the big circle. This hole will be perhaps 1/4-inch diameter. Use a file to connect these two circular holes, making a notch or keyhole in the larger circular hole. Then you again pass the connectors through the hole in order of largest-diameter connector first. You tuck the cable from that first connector into the notch. Now a second connector of the same diameter can pass through the hole. This avoids having to increase the diameter of the hole to be the diameter of the largest connector plus the diameter of the largest cable.
Re: MONTAUK 17: Drilling Console for Wiring
Usually the designer of a console or helm area had the foresight to add a slight slope to the top surface so water will not accumulate on it. If you have a hole for electrical or electronic cables on that surface, you can use a CLAMSHELL VENT to cover the hole and act as a rain shield and drain shield. Orient the clamshell vent opening toward the downslope.
Also, when mounting electronics to the top of the console of a boat like a MONTAUK that has a windshield, leave a gap between the back of the electronics and the windshield. That gap becomes the best place to stick things for temporary storage on the top of the console, like a hat or car keys or sunglasses or anything else. The chart plotter and mounting bracket keep that stuff from falling off the console.
Also, when mounting electronics to the top of the console of a boat like a MONTAUK that has a windshield, leave a gap between the back of the electronics and the windshield. That gap becomes the best place to stick things for temporary storage on the top of the console, like a hat or car keys or sunglasses or anything else. The chart plotter and mounting bracket keep that stuff from falling off the console.
Re: MONTAUK 17: Drilling Console for Wiring
When trying to determine the correct hole size for multiple connectors with molded connectors, I find it useful to experiment on a scrap piece of plywood so that you can determine the exact requirements of the opening before breaching the console.
Another tip when cutting a hole through a finished surface with hole saw is to reverse the rotation of the saw when cutting through the gel coat to prevent chipping. Once the saw teeth have reached fiberglass, switch the saw to forward rotation and continue. If you are cutting though a section with wood coring, also consider brushing on some epoxy to the exposed wood as a sealer to prevent possible future problems.
Another tip when cutting a hole through a finished surface with hole saw is to reverse the rotation of the saw when cutting through the gel coat to prevent chipping. Once the saw teeth have reached fiberglass, switch the saw to forward rotation and continue. If you are cutting though a section with wood coring, also consider brushing on some epoxy to the exposed wood as a sealer to prevent possible future problems.
Re: MONTAUK 17: Drilling Console for Wiring
Brill gave excellent advice about using reverse rotation when initially sawing through the gel coat layer with a hole saw.