I am having a problem with the raw-water wash down on a 2006 Boston Whaler 235 CONQUEST. I looked up wiring diagram.
Do I need to run the live well pump as well as raw-water wash down pump?
When boat is out of the water all other live well pumps work--but not the raw water pump; no noise at all.The seacock valve is open so no-water-flow should not be stopping it. I just can't hear any pump running. Hoping this is something simple. Any help is appreciated.
Diagnosis of Electric Pump Failure to Run
Re: Diagnosis of Electric Pump Failure to Run
If you cannot hear an electrical pump running when you have energized the circuit that controls that pump, and you make an inference from this aural cue that the pump is not operating, I recommend you investigate the electrical circuit associated with the pump. Establish that the electrical circuit is actually supplying power to the pump.
If there is power at the pump, but the pump does not operate, then the pump has failed. Replace the pump.
If there is no power at the pump, the cause of the pump failing to operate is likely some discontinuity in the electrical circuit. Repair the electrical discontinuity.
Since you have the OEM wiring diagram, you likely already can see that a 14-AWG conductor with BROWN with GRAY STRIPE insulation and labeled wire number "562" carries the 12-Volt battery power to the pump, beginning at the helm with the illuminated switch control labeled RAW WATER, and sourced through a 15-Ampere fuse from the main 12-Volt bus. Then a 14-AWG conductor with black insulation and labeled with wire number "563" carries the negative portion of the circuit from the pump to the aft ground bus. Check this circuit.
The switch appears to be an illuminated switch, so the presence of lamp illumination at the switch should indicate the 15-Ampere fuse is intact and there is power at the switch. Power downstream of the switch is carried through a multi-pin connector RECEPTACLE-1 on Pin-R. PLUG-1 mates with RECEPTACLE-1, and the circuit continues from Pin-R to the pump.
I do not see any basis in the wiring to make any sort of inference that the circuits associated with other pumps (such as the circuit called LIVE WELL) must be electrically energized in order for the circuit associated with the RAW WATER pump to operate.
If there is power at the pump, but the pump does not operate, then the pump has failed. Replace the pump.
If there is no power at the pump, the cause of the pump failing to operate is likely some discontinuity in the electrical circuit. Repair the electrical discontinuity.
Since you have the OEM wiring diagram, you likely already can see that a 14-AWG conductor with BROWN with GRAY STRIPE insulation and labeled wire number "562" carries the 12-Volt battery power to the pump, beginning at the helm with the illuminated switch control labeled RAW WATER, and sourced through a 15-Ampere fuse from the main 12-Volt bus. Then a 14-AWG conductor with black insulation and labeled with wire number "563" carries the negative portion of the circuit from the pump to the aft ground bus. Check this circuit.
The switch appears to be an illuminated switch, so the presence of lamp illumination at the switch should indicate the 15-Ampere fuse is intact and there is power at the switch. Power downstream of the switch is carried through a multi-pin connector RECEPTACLE-1 on Pin-R. PLUG-1 mates with RECEPTACLE-1, and the circuit continues from Pin-R to the pump.
I do not see any basis in the wiring to make any sort of inference that the circuits associated with other pumps (such as the circuit called LIVE WELL) must be electrically energized in order for the circuit associated with the RAW WATER pump to operate.