E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Electrical and electronic topics for small boats
Geronimo
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:37 am

E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby Geronimo » Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:45 am

Hi Guys. I am running an E-TEC 60-HP on a 15-footer. I have had endless problems with the engine's Trim-Tilt relays. The engine keeps trimming down whenever it is shifted into gear. Even after trimming up at the throttle handle, the engine trims down. After docking and trimming up, the engine would also trim itself down.

Is there a quick fix?

Or does this require a technician?

Thanks and happy Whaling.

jimh
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Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby jimh » Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:07 am

The cause of the behavior you describe is an electrical problem. Do you have any familiarity with electrical circuits? With diagnosis of electric circuit malfunction? If so, you may be able to resolve this problem yourself. If not, you may need to hire a technician.

Do you have the service manual for the engine?

The service manual will have a pictorial diagram showing the trim-tilt circuit.

I can describe the circuit in general terms: the trim motor is operated by two relays. The two relays are operated by the trim-tilt switches. There are usually two sets of trim-tilt switches, one on the engine cowling and on at the remote shift and throttle controls.

Based on your narrative, my best inference is one of the trim-tilt switches has failed and is always signalling for the engine to trim down.

Do you operate this engine in saltwater?

Jefecinco
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Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby Jefecinco » Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:14 am

I would first visually examine the throttle switch wiring where it passes through the binnacle. If the insulation on a wire has worn through it could be contacting the binnacle or throttle handle energizing the tilt function when the throttle is moved forward. If it is not that simple a more systematic approach will be needed.
Butch

Geronimo
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:37 am

Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby Geronimo » Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:08 am

Thank You both gentlemen,

Yes the motor is used exclusively in Saltwater and Butch thank you i will dismantle the Throttle Binnacle to see if a wire has shaved through its Insulation.

I am not familiar with wiring diagrams so if needed the boat will have to come out the water and towed to my technician.

Thank You for the assistance.

I will post a reply once I have success.

jimh
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Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby jimh » Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:37 pm

Because of the use in saltwater, look closely at the cowling-mounted trim-tilt switch. The seawater may have gotten into the switch housing and created a short circuit.

Usually the cowling mounted trim-tilt switch has a connector that mates with another connector on the engine main wiring harness. To isolate the cowling tilt-trim switch as a possible cause, you can un-mate the connector. This will take that switch out of the circuit. Then test to see if any behavior changed.

jimh
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Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby jimh » Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:39 pm

The uncommanded action to trim down could be due to a bad relay.

Regarding how a RELAY might fail: a relay is an electro-mechanical device. The controlled circuit runs through a set of contacts in the relay. In the case of an outboard engine trim-tilt circuit, the load on the relay is a DC motor. The relay switches electrical power to the DC motor.

When the relay operates to MAKE or BREAK the circuit in which a DC current flows into an inductive load like a DC motor, the peak currents can be higher than the steady-state currents. When the DC motor is being started into rotation or if the DC motor becomes stalled by the load, the current will be higher than normal. If the contacts on the relay are not properly sized to handle these higher currents, the contacts can, over time, become pitted or burned. This can sometimes lead to the contacts mechanically fusing together and remaining in contact, even when the mechanical force from the relay coil is removed. When the circuit to a DC motor breaks, there is stored energy in the electrical field of the motor windings. As the field collapses it generates its own electro-motive force (EMF or Voltage), which can be significantly higher than the supply voltage (12-Volts in this case) that was operating the motor. As the contacts start to separate, the higher voltage will jump across the air gap and create an arcing. The arc extinguishes when the length of the air gap becomes too great for the remaining EMF to jump across. The arcing also leads to pitting and burning of the relay contacts. The more contact pitting and burning occurs, the more likely the contacts are to have a tendency to fuse together.

To assess if the continued operation of the electrical circuit going through a relay after the coil is de-energized is due to contact fusing, locate the relay housing, and apply a sudden mechanical jolt to it by striking it with an insulated tool, such as the rubber handle of a screwdriver. If a mechanical tap or jolt on the relay causes a stop to the flow of electrical current through the relay, then the problem is likely internal in the relay. The remedy is to replace the relay. There are two relays as part of a single assembly, so both are replaced at the same time.

If replacement of the relay is indicated, an OEM replacement part should be used. When replacing any component in any electrical circuit, a good strategy is to carefully inspect all existing wiring and electrical connections involved, make a sketch of those connections, identify all the conductors, compare the new component to the existing component, and have certainty about what wire will connect to what part of the new component. In today's modern world, take a high-resolution color close-up digital image before you start disassembling any circuit. If necessary, attach temporary labels to disambiguate any conductors from others with similar wire insulation color. By following a plan, you can generally perform simple electrical component servicing yourself. Also, during any disassembly or reassembly, be certain to disconnect electrical power from the circuit. On a boat this can be done typically by turning the primary power distribution switch or circuit breaker to OFF or by removing the fuse associated with the circuit.

Geronimo
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Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby Geronimo » Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:40 pm

Dear Fellow boaters who assisted with my problem,

After a frustrating fishing trip this morning I returned to my berth and removed the Engine cover. I disconnected the plug from the Cowl mounted Trim switches to the relays. This stopped the spontaneous tilting. I then later stripped the Binnacle throttle control but on inspection found no visible problems.

I now still have T & T from the binnacle control but none on the Engine cowl.

In order to inspect the cowl switches I will have to take the boat out the water which I will do in our southern hemisphere winter in May.

Currently I am happy to just use the throttle mounted T & T.

Thanks again for the advice, it is really appreciated.

jimh
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Re: E-TEC 60-HP Trim and Tilt Relay

Postby jimh » Wed Mar 14, 2018 1:11 pm

I am glad my advice to carefully inspect the cowling-mounted trim switch led you to the resolution of this problem.

It may occur that in order to remove the cowling-mounted trim switches from the cowling you will have to disassemble the wiring to the connector, as the connector housing is too large to pass through the hole in the cowling where the switch is mounted.

Typically the wires have been crimped to contacts which are then inserted into the connector from the rear. A latching mechanism retains the contact in the connector housing. To release the contact from the connector you have to use a specialized tool, typically a very thin and narrow width tool which can be inserted into the housing to release the plastic latch. Evinrude sells this tool, but you may also be able to fabricate your own tool from some thin and narrow metal strip, perhaps from an old feeler gauge.

Another option is to cut off the connector and reattach it later with butt splice wire terminals.

If you remove the switch assembly, you can try to rejuvenate it. Try spraying it thoroughly with WD-40. You can also try this in-situ. You could also try immersion in freshwater (to dilute any salts that have dried on the switch contacts), and then thoroughly spray with WD-40 and let air dry for several days in a warm place.

You can find the replacement part by using the excellent website SHOP2.EVINRUDE.COM.