Split Bus Fuse Block
Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:28 am
I'm rewiring my 1981 Montauk. I plan to add a DC subpanel under the console to power all of the house electrical system, connected directly to the battery (which is located in the stern). I would like to have a switched partition of the block that powers all of the electronics (stereo, VHF, and GPS/sounder combo) so that I can turn them all on and off with a single switch. I'm using Cole Hersee push/pull switched just because I'd like to retain the original look.
Given the limited space in the console, I was thinking of using a Blue Sea split bus fuse block (https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_Blade_Split_Bus_Fuse_Block), with one bank wired directly to the battery for lights/bilge pump/horn/etc. and the other bank for the electronics controlled via a switched relay. The total draw of the electronics I have (Fusion RA-50 stereo, ICOM M-304 VHF, and a circa 1982 Datamarine depth finder that will be replaced with a combo GPS/sounder when funds allow) looks to be less than 30 amps peak.
So here's my question - could I power fuse bank "B" (electronics) from a 30 amp fused circuit from bank "A," or should I power each bank from a separate bus bar that draws from the battery?
So the first option for getting power to the electronics bank would look like
Battery ----> fuse bank A ----> 30 amp fuse on bank A ----> relay ----> bank B ----> individual bank B circuits for each device
And the second option would be
Battery ----> 3-terminal bus with lines feeding bank A and to relay ----> relay to bank B ----> individual bank B circuits for each device
Appreciate any help/advice anyone can provide (other than "why on earth do you want to separately a switched electronics circuit?").
In case it matters, the boat has a single battery for house and starting/engine systems and is powered by the original 1982 Evinrude 90, which only has about 300 hours on it (as does the entire boat, for that matter). Wiring has aged, though, and needs to be replaced. A bad negative battery cable already helped me to fry the starter and solenoid, so I"m replacing all of the cable that I can at this point. I also have to replace the steering cable as the jacket has cracked, and am installing a new NFB helm. I've just about gutted the console and am ready to start reassembly.
FWIW, I posted the same question over on The Hull Truth, and all I got was a recommendation to add a battery switch and a fuse at the battery (I was planning on a terminal fuse block at the battery for the house system, anyway).
Sorry for the long post, and many thanks in advance for any advice proffered,
-Steve in VA
Given the limited space in the console, I was thinking of using a Blue Sea split bus fuse block (https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_Blade_Split_Bus_Fuse_Block), with one bank wired directly to the battery for lights/bilge pump/horn/etc. and the other bank for the electronics controlled via a switched relay. The total draw of the electronics I have (Fusion RA-50 stereo, ICOM M-304 VHF, and a circa 1982 Datamarine depth finder that will be replaced with a combo GPS/sounder when funds allow) looks to be less than 30 amps peak.
So here's my question - could I power fuse bank "B" (electronics) from a 30 amp fused circuit from bank "A," or should I power each bank from a separate bus bar that draws from the battery?
So the first option for getting power to the electronics bank would look like
Battery ----> fuse bank A ----> 30 amp fuse on bank A ----> relay ----> bank B ----> individual bank B circuits for each device
And the second option would be
Battery ----> 3-terminal bus with lines feeding bank A and to relay ----> relay to bank B ----> individual bank B circuits for each device
Appreciate any help/advice anyone can provide (other than "why on earth do you want to separately a switched electronics circuit?").
In case it matters, the boat has a single battery for house and starting/engine systems and is powered by the original 1982 Evinrude 90, which only has about 300 hours on it (as does the entire boat, for that matter). Wiring has aged, though, and needs to be replaced. A bad negative battery cable already helped me to fry the starter and solenoid, so I"m replacing all of the cable that I can at this point. I also have to replace the steering cable as the jacket has cracked, and am installing a new NFB helm. I've just about gutted the console and am ready to start reassembly.
FWIW, I posted the same question over on The Hull Truth, and all I got was a recommendation to add a battery switch and a fuse at the battery (I was planning on a terminal fuse block at the battery for the house system, anyway).
Sorry for the long post, and many thanks in advance for any advice proffered,
-Steve in VA