160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
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Todd
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160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Mon May 22, 2017 9:53 am

IMG_1457.JPG
Console bracket
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Hello, I finally took delivery of my 2003 160 Dauntless having carefully (I thought) measured to make sure it would fit in my garage. Much to my dismay and my wife's ire, I realized the boat's center console bracket and windshield sit too high to fit in my garage. I removed both to get it in so I could work on her but taking down the bracket each time I use it will quickly become unrealistic (it took two of us about 20 minutes). With that background, does anyone have an idea for a way to remove the bracket without removing the 12 bolts? Maybe cutting the bracket and putting in a quick release mechanism of some type? I would guess I’m not the only guy who has made this mistake. Thanks for the guidance!

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Todd
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Re: 16 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Mon May 22, 2017 11:02 am

I found a potential solution by cutting the railing and using a railing coupling, see link. Anyone used something like this? I am not sure what diameter the bracket is, but these come in 7/8 or 1" options. Thanks.

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Amar-Rail ... 91574.html

jimh
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby jimh » Mon May 22, 2017 1:36 pm

Cutting the railing that extends around the windshield will cause another problem: reduced strength in that railing, which is likely to be an important hand-hold when operating the boat.

How much clearance must be gained?

Look at the trailer as a possible solution. I can see two options:

--reduce the tire and wheel size on the trailer; this should gain an inch or perhaps more,

--re-fit the axle to the trailer frame; you may be able to generally lower the trailer frame closer to the road surface by changing the way the axle is mounted or by changing to a torsion-spring axle.

Another option to consider if only the railing is causing the problem:

--completely remove the railing and its base attachment plates; store them for possible future use;

--locate a competent local canvas shop;

--have the canvas shop bend and fabricate a new railing that is similar to the original, but will be hinged at the base so it can swing out of the way;

--the new railing will have two secondary supports, one on each side, that will clamp it in place when in the normal position; the canvas shop fabricator will figure out how to do this so that only two screw fasteners on each side need to be removed to lower the railing.

See sketch below for an idea:
dauntlessRailing.jpg
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Jefecinco
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Jefecinco » Tue May 23, 2017 8:39 am

Todd,

Have you tried pushing the boat into the garage with the tongue jack fully lowered? Partially deflating the tires may also help. Finally, you could consider replacing the trailer tires with a tire of less diameter.
Butch

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Todd
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Tue May 23, 2017 9:00 am

Hi all,

I had a engineer friend take a look at the bracket and suggest the most efficient solution knowing that the bracket will have to come off every time I put the boat back in the garage. He did some research and found a new product from White Water Marine that he thinks will work for my needs, it's a pair of stainless steel connectors (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=3707196) that he will place just above the higher bracket anchor. He believes the heavy duty connect will be sufficiently strong when supplemented by the solid center post the bracket has. It will require me to only loosen four allen screws and he will set up a wing nut under the console for the center post. I should be able to put it up and take it down in just a few minutes. He also is ordering wing screws for the windshield which will speed the process of removing it as well.

He looked at the suggestions you folks had and thought they were workable too, he just knows my novice level of mechanical expertise and said for me, keeping it simple as possible would be best. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the great advice!

Todd

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Phil T
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Phil T » Tue May 23, 2017 10:23 am

I have the same problem and we are not the first two.

For long term storage, I removed the windshield, removed three of the railing bolts and tilted it forward. While I read and saw a modification to a 190 Outrage adding quick release fittings to the console railing, I can't locate it.
1992 Outrage 17
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Todd
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Tue May 30, 2017 9:18 am

Hello, I've got an update on my Dauntless railing being too tall. I enlisted the support of a friend who is an engineer and has the proper cutting tools. I have installed stainless steel couplings on the two main rail supports just above where the rail bolts to the console. It seems just as sturdy as before and now takes only minutes to remove the railing for storage in my garage. I still take the windshield down but that only takes a minute as well.

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Phil T
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Phil T » Tue May 30, 2017 9:37 am

Todd -

What actually holds the rail parts together? Is the coupling a friction device that you tighten/loosen?

How much overlap is there?

Is the modification straightforward? Hard to do?

Can you pull the rail and take a photo of the connector?
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003

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Todd
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Re: 160 Dauntless Center Console Railing

Postby Todd » Tue May 30, 2017 10:06 am

There are four allen screws in each three-inch-long coupling.

The railing meets in the middle of the coupling so two screws tighten on about 1.5-inces of railing on each side of the cut.

I fixed the bottom two [set screws]. I loosen the top two [set screws] to remove the railing on each side.

There is a center railing as well but I didn't cut that.I use a wing nut to speed its removal.

I was pleased that it seems just as secure as it did before and saves me 30 minutes of sweating inside the center console to unbolt the railing.

Below is the a good picture of the coupling. The coupling is made in 1-inch ID and 7/8-inch ID sizes. The coupling is heavy duty and solid.

The modification was simple. Cutting 1-inch-OD stainless was done with a high quality hack saw. I was going to use a power tool to make the cut but said a friend a power tool cut would heat the stainless and discolor it.

My friend taped off the spot for the cut. He cut and rounded the sharp edges of the tubing with a file. Start to finish if took about 20 minutes. The time consuming part was bolting the bracket back on in the hot, confined space of the center console, I hope to NEVER do that again. Thanks.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|7504|2290217|2290219&id=3707196