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Author Topic:   Marinium Hardware

David Reid posted 02-28-2000 11:58 PM ET (US)
Anyone have a source for purchasing new or refinishing old Marinium hardware (cleats, bow pieces, etc)? I've tried buffing, and the stuff appears to have something like an annodized finish.
Tom Byrum posted 02-29-2000 12:47 AM ET (US)
Try to find a tube of metal polish called Flitz. It's expensive and hard to find but it works. One small tube will cost around $10.00 but it goes a long way. I did all my stainless and all the aluminum on my 19' Outrage and still have some left.
david in boston posted 03-02-2000 01:49 PM ET (US)
Hey! even flitz has a website! http://www.flitz.com/ all about the polish. looks good. David
dgp posted 03-03-2000 07:58 AM ET (US)
Usually you can find this stuff at a BMW Motorcycle shop.
David Reid posted 03-03-2000 11:40 AM ET (US)
Chuck Bennet at Whaler Service came through with the following: The Marinium hardware manufacturer is no longer in business. Fortunately, the metal responds well to wet sanding followed by buffing with a metal compound such as Flitz. He cautions to remember to wax following the buff for a finish that looks better than the original.
Tom Byrum posted 03-08-2000 10:44 PM ET (US)
David did he say what he was using for the wax?
David Reid posted 03-14-2000 02:29 PM ET (US)
Sorry, been out a week. No, he did not recommend a wax, but I've had time to mess around with it. The wet sanding works well for reducing or removing the corrosion scarring, starting with 400, then going to 600 and 800 grit. Followed with 00 steel wool, which really did a good job of bringing up the luster. Followed with Flitz and 3-M metal polish (both seem to work well... don't need both)then finished with your basic Turtle car wax. Plenty of elbow grease but the pieces I've worked on look super. Remember to keep the part and that steel wool FAR away from your gel-coat as the resulting rust stains are a bitch to remove from the deck!
bajadude posted 03-26-2000 09:20 PM ET (US)
NEVER use steel wool anywhere around gelcoat-unless you don't mind rust spots.(Bronze wool , if you must!!) Marinium parts were HARD ANODIZED-sanding REMOVES THE ANODIZE and will create more problems than it solves! if the (natural) corrosion bugs you change to stainless cleats,which BTW, will also eventiually corrode, only to a lesser degree. JK

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Author	Topic: Marinium Hardware
David Reid	posted 02-28-2000 11:58 PM ET (US) Anyone have a source for purchasing new or refinishing old Marinium hardware (cleats, bow pieces, etc)? I've tried buffing, and the stuff appears to have something like an annodized finish.
Tom Byrum	posted 02-29-2000 12:47 AM ET (US) Try to find a tube of metal polish called Flitz. It's expensive and hard to find but it works. One small tube will cost around $10.00 but it goes a long way. I did all my stainless and all the aluminum on my 19' Outrage and still have some left.
david in boston	posted 03-02-2000 01:49 PM ET (US) Hey! even flitz has a website! http://www.flitz.com/ all about the polish. looks good. David
dgp	posted 03-03-2000 07:58 AM ET (US) Usually you can find this stuff at a BMW Motorcycle shop.
David Reid	posted 03-03-2000 11:40 AM ET (US) Chuck Bennet at Whaler Service came through with the following: The Marinium hardware manufacturer is no longer in business. Fortunately, the metal responds well to wet sanding followed by buffing with a metal compound such as Flitz. He cautions to remember to wax following the buff for a finish that looks better than the original.
Tom Byrum	posted 03-08-2000 10:44 PM ET (US) David did he say what he was using for the wax?
David Reid	posted 03-14-2000 02:29 PM ET (US) Sorry, been out a week. No, he did not recommend a wax, but I've had time to mess around with it. The wet sanding works well for reducing or removing the corrosion scarring, starting with 400, then going to 600 and 800 grit. Followed with 00 steel wool, which really did a good job of bringing up the luster. Followed with Flitz and 3-M metal polish (both seem to work well... don't need both)then finished with your basic Turtle car wax. Plenty of elbow grease but the pieces I've worked on look super. Remember to keep the part and that steel wool FAR away from your gel-coat as the resulting rust stains are a bitch to remove from the deck!
bajadude	posted 03-26-2000 09:20 PM ET (US) NEVER use steel wool anywhere around gelcoat-unless you don't mind rust spots.(Bronze wool , if you must!!) Marinium parts were HARD ANODIZED-sanding REMOVES THE ANODIZE and will create more problems than it solves! if the (natural) corrosion bugs you change to stainless cleats,which BTW, will also eventiually corrode, only to a lesser degree. JK