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Author Topic:   Securing large objects to deck...help!!!!

here fishy posted 04-26-2000 06:21 AM ET (US)
Bought a used 13' 1978 whaler recently with a 40hp Yamaha. The previous owner built a center console out of 1/2 " marine plywood stained and varnished to look like mahogany.
I removed the swingback 2 person/seat/cooler cause it took up too much space crosswise. The 6 gallon tank and battery was just off to the side leaving very little room towards the stern. Decided to build a box to match the center console and position it lengthwise to create more space. The box will measure 17 w x 30 long x 16 high and will house a 12 gallon gas tank. The box will eventually have a swivel seat mounted to it.
Been going through the staining/epoxy/varnish procedure with the box and had settled on securing it to the deck with "L" brackets from the inside. Preferably stainless steel if I can find them or chrome plated brass. Definitely, stainless bolts and nuts through the box and stainless for the screws to the deck.
This is my first fiberglass boat. The wood box design and preparation has gone ok. The securing part of the job is what scares me. The gas tank will weigh about 90 lbs. full and the box should weigh 25 lbs.
What is the best procedure to follow regarding screwing and mounting large objects to the deck? Will a screw adhere to the foam filling once it penetrates the gelcoat and fiberglass?
I discovered that the center console has become loose and had to remove it altogether. The previous owner had secured it with 2" brass screws but the holes left by the screws had widened over time. I want to put the consle back and wnat to be sure that both the box and console will stay put for as long as possible.
help...suggestions...ideas!
Thanks to all.
lhg posted 04-26-2000 02:17 PM ET (US)
You should refer to the Wood Location Diagram that Jim has posted for the 13. You have brought up a very important issue regarding Whalers, mainly that the only SAFE way to secure anything into the floor of any Whaler is use wood screws (or self tapping screws) into the WOOD BLOCKING moulded into the floor in CERTAIN locations only. Screws mounting consoles or seats into the glass only will not hold and are not safe. To make matters worse regarding custom consoles, seats, etc., this wood was only placed for Whaler's own interior configuration components. Before doing anything custom in a Whaler, the wood locating diagrams must be consulted for location of the wood mounting places. Hope you will able to adapt your work for securing into the boat at these places.
edfish posted 04-30-2000 01:49 AM ET (US)
In my 17 and 21ft. Whalers I gave up on screwing anything to the boards. In the weather that I fish nothing short of fiberglassing to the deck works. I secured a davit to the deck of my 21 with a piece of plywood and glued it to the deck with SikaFlex. It was nearly impossable to get it off for maintenance several years ago. Just my 2 cents worth. Another note is that if you are going to screw anything to the deck I found that sheetmetal screws (stainless) much larger than used usually with the pilot holes drilled several sizes to small (that made screwing the screws in on the hard side even using silicone for a seal and lubricant)worked the best. Good luck. -ED
Arch Autenreith posted 04-30-2000 01:15 PM ET (US)
This fix is for problem installations where screws continually loosen up or pull out or just need an extremely strong screw installation.
NOTE: I highly recommend you practice on a scrap piece of wood to see how the TOGGLER is installed to see what to see what you are trying to accomplish!!!
Use a Ľ-20 “TOGGLER” from West Marine.
http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=9866&outlet=
(They is also 10/24 and 3/16”.) $5.49 each. Drill the hole(s) with the drill size recommended. Be careful to drill only thru the deck and the wood backing and not through the hull. ( ľ to 1 inch?)
Here’s where the fun starts…There is foam between the deck and the hull that needs to be removed in order for the “Toggler” to be inserted. I used a 4” nail, cut off the head and bent the lower 1” 90 degrees and put it in a drill chuck. Insert the 90 degree end into the hole and run/spin to loosen the foam under the hole you just drilled. Used a Shop Vac to suction out the bits of foam. (This is somewhat time-consuming. Periodically, I had to use a small pick with a hook at the end help with the removal as some pieces were too big to come out only with the Shop Vac.) Simply install the TOGGLERs and use the appropriate stainless steel machine screw.
Good luck. Let me know how my directions were and how the job turned out. If you don’t understand how I did this email me.
Good luck
archautenreith@hotmail.com

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Author	Topic: Securing large objects to deck...help!!!!
here fishy	posted 04-26-2000 06:21 AM ET (US) Bought a used 13' 1978 whaler recently with a 40hp Yamaha. The previous owner built a center console out of 1/2 " marine plywood stained and varnished to look like mahogany. I removed the swingback 2 person/seat/cooler cause it took up too much space crosswise. The 6 gallon tank and battery was just off to the side leaving very little room towards the stern. Decided to build a box to match the center console and position it lengthwise to create more space. The box will measure 17 w x 30 long x 16 high and will house a 12 gallon gas tank. The box will eventually have a swivel seat mounted to it. Been going through the staining/epoxy/varnish procedure with the box and had settled on securing it to the deck with "L" brackets from the inside. Preferably stainless steel if I can find them or chrome plated brass. Definitely, stainless bolts and nuts through the box and stainless for the screws to the deck. This is my first fiberglass boat. The wood box design and preparation has gone ok. The securing part of the job is what scares me. The gas tank will weigh about 90 lbs. full and the box should weigh 25 lbs. What is the best procedure to follow regarding screwing and mounting large objects to the deck? Will a screw adhere to the foam filling once it penetrates the gelcoat and fiberglass? I discovered that the center console has become loose and had to remove it altogether. The previous owner had secured it with 2" brass screws but the holes left by the screws had widened over time. I want to put the consle back and wnat to be sure that both the box and console will stay put for as long as possible. help...suggestions...ideas! Thanks to all.
lhg	posted 04-26-2000 02:17 PM ET (US) You should refer to the Wood Location Diagram that Jim has posted for the 13. You have brought up a very important issue regarding Whalers, mainly that the only SAFE way to secure anything into the floor of any Whaler is use wood screws (or self tapping screws) into the WOOD BLOCKING moulded into the floor in CERTAIN locations only. Screws mounting consoles or seats into the glass only will not hold and are not safe. To make matters worse regarding custom consoles, seats, etc., this wood was only placed for Whaler's own interior configuration components. Before doing anything custom in a Whaler, the wood locating diagrams must be consulted for location of the wood mounting places. Hope you will able to adapt your work for securing into the boat at these places.
edfish	posted 04-30-2000 01:49 AM ET (US) In my 17 and 21ft. Whalers I gave up on screwing anything to the boards. In the weather that I fish nothing short of fiberglassing to the deck works. I secured a davit to the deck of my 21 with a piece of plywood and glued it to the deck with SikaFlex. It was nearly impossable to get it off for maintenance several years ago. Just my 2 cents worth. Another note is that if you are going to screw anything to the deck I found that sheetmetal screws (stainless) much larger than used usually with the pilot holes drilled several sizes to small (that made screwing the screws in on the hard side even using silicone for a seal and lubricant)worked the best. Good luck. -ED
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-30-2000 01:15 PM ET (US) This fix is for problem installations where screws continually loosen up or pull out or just need an extremely strong screw installation. NOTE: I highly recommend you practice on a scrap piece of wood to see how the TOGGLER is installed to see what to see what you are trying to accomplish!!! Use a Ľ-20 “TOGGLER” from West Marine. http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=9866&outlet= (They is also 10/24 and 3/16”.) $5.49 each. Drill the hole(s) with the drill size recommended. Be careful to drill only thru the deck and the wood backing and not through the hull. ( ľ to 1 inch?) Here’s where the fun starts…There is foam between the deck and the hull that needs to be removed in order for the “Toggler” to be inserted. I used a 4” nail, cut off the head and bent the lower 1” 90 degrees and put it in a drill chuck. Insert the 90 degree end into the hole and run/spin to loosen the foam under the hole you just drilled. Used a Shop Vac to suction out the bits of foam. (This is somewhat time-consuming. Periodically, I had to use a small pick with a hook at the end help with the removal as some pieces were too big to come out only with the Shop Vac.) Simply install the TOGGLERs and use the appropriate stainless steel machine screw. Good luck. Let me know how my directions were and how the job turned out. If you don’t understand how I did this email me. Good luck archautenreith@hotmail.com