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Author Topic:   13' Whaler #8138
JTBoyt posted 06-26-2000 05:44 PM ET (US)   Profile for JTBoyt   Send Email to JTBoyt  
Just found out that one of the two whalers I have had for 16 years is #8138 (found stenciled numbers in bow locker using info from this website). Would be interested in any info on original hardware configurations, wiring schemes and nav lights, to include stern light - if any. There is stub wiring coming from inboard port side behind thwart/well that was probably connected to some sort of a terminal strip. Any ideas, thoughts, data, drawings, would be most appreciated. Thanks.
jimh posted 06-26-2000 07:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The general scheme for navigation light wiring was to run the wires from the port stern area--where you have found them--along the interior of the hull to the bow.

Originally it ran encapsulated in the hull-deck foam interior. It exited at the bow and attached to the bi-color light. A hole was drilled upward into the area where the navigation lamp fixture would be mounted.

The wiring exited from its concealment in the hull and passed through the deck. The navigation lamp fixture was mounted atop, concealing the hole.

The factory included three wires, providing a spare in case one of the two wires need for a circuit was broken.

At the stern the wires exit and attach to a two-terminal terminal strip. At that point the stern light wiring was also attached, often by a removeable plug arrangement so that the stern light pole could be removed when not in use. Some type of spray shield was also provided.

The stern light pole typically mounted on the inside of the transom using two stand-offs.

The pole slides through the first standoff and into the second. Some type of locking cap screwed onto the upper stand-off to retain the pole.

The wiring from the stern light exited the pole at the bottom and carried over to the terminal strip a few inches away.

Power for lighting the navigation lamps was carried from the console to the terminal strip. A switch on the console operated the lights.

If the internal wiring fails, the recourse is to route the wiring externally under the lip of the gunwales using some adhesive tape. Holes can be drilled through from the outside of the hull into the areas in the bow and stern where the bowlight and the terminal block are mounted

--jimh

jimh posted 06-26-2000 08:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Instructions for drilling holes in case you had to abandon the internal wiring:

At bow: Drill 3/16" hole from the finger groove to the center of the light base area on the top face of gunnel.

At stern: Drill 3/16" from inside the boat 3" upward into foam then angle bit down until hole is routed through top of finger groove.

Dwg No. 15-3-1 showed this in detail.

--jimh

jimh posted 06-26-2000 09:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
A subtle point about the polarity of the wiring mentioned in the Whaler owners manual:

The switch that interrupts the circuit should be mounted in the positive lead of the battery going to the lamps. This will prevent a corrosion condition from forming by keeping the lamp filaments from being connected to the battery positive when off. Were the lamp filaments to be connected to the battery positive when off, all the internal wiring, the bulb sockets, etc., would be floating at battery positive and at +12v with respect to the water. This would create an enhanced condition for corrosion.

I find this kind of attention to detail a fascinating part of the Classic Boston Whaler "legend".

--jimh

lhg posted 06-26-2000 10:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Failed hull light wiring, as usually happens in these boats, is another reason to upgrade to the newer two piece rubrail system. Then the bow light wiring can be concealed in the rubrail.
JTBoyt posted 06-27-2000 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for JTBoyt  Send Email to JTBoyt     
Thanks to all for the info - only to note that the existing stub of the original wires are on starboard side, not port as I described at the outset. Sorry.

The scheme described for terminal block, nav lights, stern light, et.al. is exactly what I have on the 1984 13' Whaler - and all of that is still in place on that boat. However on this older whaler, the wires were pretty obviously in the hull but there is no sign of screw holes for terminal block or stern light standoffs. Rather there are two sets of screw holes through the transom - each set just below the mounting holes for the brackets that support the pulley system for steering -one set starboard and one set on the port side.

Anyone know if an all-around white stern light was even required in the early '60's?

Also, any sources or used dealers for the original nav light? The closest I have found is the Perko red/green light.

Any thouhts as to what kind of outboard motor(manufacturer, model, HP) would have have been probably mounted originally or was popular at the time?

Thsnks again. Cheers

lhg posted 06-28-2000 06:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Your boat may not have had Navigation Lights. It was an option. This lighting system is still in use by Whaler on the current 13 GLS and the Montauk. Try the Company, thru a Dealer, as a source. These are expensive, top of the line items, so they won't be cheap. As an option, I think the navigation lights on a 13 are about $275 extra.
Mattall posted 07-11-2001 04:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Mattall  Send Email to Mattall     
Great info on the wiring. I just bought a 1965 13' Supersport (Hull #17216) and have two follow-on questions:

1. Can anyone supply a wiring diagram? I can't figure out how to wire this up on the 2 terminal block and use an Off-On-On swith to turn on the Stern light only and then both the stern light/bow light

2. My boat has no switch in place. What type of switch is used and where should it be located on the console?

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