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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
|Author||Topic: 78 johnsons85's|
posted 07-05-2000 09:47 PM ET (US)
being new to boating im purching a 21 outrage and it has two 85hp johnsons on the back the have been rebuilt and less than 40 hrs on the i drove the boat today and it is really a nice boat with all the powder i would ever need. my question is will unleaded gas give these engines any problem and they both turn the props in the same direction. I have a friend with twin yamahas and i know that his counter rotate.
posted 07-06-2000 06:22 AM ET (US)
Tracy, the unleaded gas won't bother your engines.. some 4 stroke auto engines needed leaded fuel for valve seat lubrication but the two stroke loves unleaded.. suggestion: treat those engines to a de-carboning treatment with Quicksilver "Power Tune" or Yamaha "Combustion Deposit Cleaner" (same product, in a spray can .. just follow directions) and put in a new plugs after treatment.. then don't overrev those V-4's, ever! Congratulations on purchase of the 21'er.. Keep the wet side down... Happy Whalin'..... Clark.... Spruce Creek Navy
posted 07-06-2000 02:01 PM ET (US)
With twin non counter-rotating engines, you should consider converting the steering to hydraulic by Teleflex. It will make a HUGE difference in ease of operation.
Sounds like you found an extremely rare boat, especially if it is in great condition.
posted 07-12-2000 07:55 PM ET (US)
Clark, I also have a 1975 85h.p. Johnson on my Currituck. What do you mean by not over reving the engines ever, I don`t want to ruin my engine as it runs great! Also I would like to also run decarbination stuff thru my engine, are there any other products that you can think of other than Yamaha and Quicksilver brands? Also I am currently running NKG spark plugs in my engine, what is you`re opinion of them and also Denso brand plugs? Any info would be much appreciated, also any flaws from the 1975 85h.p.model I should watch out for? Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 07-14-2000 08:13 PM ET (US)
Jack, the early V4 OMC engines had "high ring" pistons.. that is, the top ring groove was very close to the piston top and made for a "tinder" area there... overreving could chip the piston edge and landscape the engine... I would hold rpm to less than 5500! I have had probably 10 of these V4's of various hp ranges and have had piston and cyl problems on most of them... any decarboning product should do the trick... I thing NGK and Nippon Denso plugs are fine products... I run NGK mostly.. Happy Whalin.. Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
posted 08-02-2000 06:44 PM ET (US)
I'm going to sea trial a Montauk with a '79 85 hp Johnson V4. I plan to compression test to see if all 4 cyls. are pretty close, but what compression should I expect for a solid motor? Also, what are the sypmtoms of a motor that may have high-ring failure problems? I have heard of this condition from others, but I don't know how to evaluate this engine before purchase. BTW, the boat is really clean, and the motor looks like it has been run little and well maintained. It sounds as though a little over revving can undo much of this. Any advice? Thanks, Andy
posted 08-02-2000 08:17 PM ET (US)
Clark, thank you very much for you`re response. I just got a good deal on Autolite resistor plugs for my OMC V-4. Are these plugs any good. First time I have ever seen marine Autolite plugs. Also, is the 85h.p. Johnson 1975 able to do 5500RPM on a 1973 `16 Currituck at full throttle. What are the simptems if the piston gets chipped, as I have run my engine wide open up to a minute at full throttle and the engine is still very strong and sounds normal. Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 08-05-2000 07:09 PM ET (US)
I think the resister plugs are designed to have less radio interference (Electromotive Interference.. EMI) and performance should be standard as long as the heat range is correct for your enging... whether or not your engine will reach 5500rpm depends on several factors,,, correct prop pitch, tune, mounting height, boat's bottom condition etc..... if it gets up to low 5's
that should be ok.... if a piston chips or if a ring breaks,,, you will know it... typically the engine starts to run rough and then looses power and won't restart... sometimes it just freezes up and self destructs.... A fuel mixture too lean and spark advance that is too forward will quickly "hole a piston" on any engine....Get engine tuned to factory specs, use 89 min. octane fuel and install a water separating filter, use the BEST TCW-3 oil and don't overrev it and you should be "good to go"... happy Whalin....
posted 08-05-2000 10:36 PM ET (US)
I noticed that you suggest a water separating filter. Are these really needed on smaller boats with external fuel tanks? If so, does this depend on the type of tank (plastic, fiberglass, aluminum, etc.)? For some reason I was under the impression that they were only recommended for boats with internal metal tanks.
posted 08-06-2000 07:33 AM ET (US)
Barry, most people don't bother with the filter on small boats, why? I don't know! maybe it's because you have to work at finding a proper mounting. I would recommend a filter on any fixed mount motor set-up.. I have a filter on a 13 with a 15hp Johnson. Water can accumulate in ANY fuel tank of any material. And if it gets in the carb, it's carb drain, rebuild time or worse yet "row & tow" time. Aluminum tanks seem to be the worse for condensation but water can come in from the pump at the dock or service station... I have gotten water and sand in my gas straight from the pump! At around $20 a water separating filter can be your best insurance against a ruined day on the water! Just my opinion, mind you, and "Lord knows" I've got plenty of those.. Happy Whalin'.... Clark .... Spruce Creek Navy
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