Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
  Can I drill into the hull?

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Can I drill into the hull?
thunderbay posted 09-07-2000 04:19 AM ET (US)   Profile for thunderbay   Send Email to thunderbay  

The whaler I picked up was used
in freshwater, so the gas tank
and battery are not strapped
down, I assume a good run in the
ocean will have them all over the
deck! Can I drill into the floor?
Also, the owner claims that to
run it in salt water certain
things in the motor need to be
changed, but didnt know what, any
truth to this? Thanks, shawn
reeltime2 posted 09-07-2000 08:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for reeltime2  Send Email to reeltime2     
Yes you can pre drill into the hull to mount your batt. & tank just make sure you use stainles steel screws and use a sealent like 3M 4200 or silicone on the screw threads. As far as your motor question what year and make is it?
bigz posted 09-07-2000 09:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Just a little clarification on reeltime's comment---

Shawn the best thing to do is email Boston Whaler Customer Service with the hull id number and request a wood reinforcement diagram for you year and make of baot. This will show you where you can mount the battery and tank --- you just don't want to drill through non-reinforced "skin" areas even with 3M5200 it won't hold --- actually if it tears loose using 5200 it will pull out a lot of deck if not screwed to the plywood backing --- might also suggest when you get the diagram and start mounting use the 3M4200 this will allow easy removal of the screws in the future if necessary --- just a couple of ideas to make life simpler --- Tom

bigz posted 09-07-2000 09:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Oops sorry reeltime you did mention 4200 not 5200 --- excellent choice --

Shawn one other thing when you drill use a little larger bit to start the hole (don't drill all the way through the skin -- just enough to give you a slight enlarged hole into the surface) then use the proper bit for the screws the remainder of the way into the plywood backing --- as reeltime mentioned lightly coat the screw threads with 4200 and put a dab in the enlarged surface hole --- this will eliminate the possibility of spider cracks appearing around each screw cased by stress and pounding --- Tom

PS boat not baot!

triblet posted 09-07-2000 10:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
What about the 3M 101 Polysulfide? You
can put the boat in the water immediately,
and the tube keeps for ever, unlike 4200/5200
which start curing as soon as you open the
tube (the 101 is cured by WATER).

Also, re your question on the motor: What
make, HP, model, and year?

Chuck Tribolet

bigz posted 09-07-2000 12:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Chuck you made a good point didn't think about 101 or for that matter Boat Life also works well --- Tom
lhg posted 09-07-2000 03:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Be sure to check out the hull re-inforcing diagrams that JimH has posted in the reference section. May find what you need.
Can't emphasize enough that the battery box MUST be mounted where there is plywood/Whalerwood backing in the floor.
Same goes for any gas tank restraining blocks you are goiong to mount to the floor. We continuously hear, on this site, about deliminated glass/foam situations. Except for light weight applications, this will do it if there is no blocking in the floor. The skin peels (lifts) off the foam like a banana peel.
jimh posted 09-08-2000 01:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
My 15-Sport is a rather early model and in it the wood backing was only added to the cockpit floor in a 12-inch wide strip down the middle.

So mounting the battery box to one side was impossible if you wanted to screw it into wood, not foam.

What I did to adapt to this sitution was this:

--went to the local plastics supply house and bought a piece of 3/8th-inch thick board that looks like "Star-board" or Whaler-board.

--made a mounting plate out of it that was about 3-inches wider than the battery box dimensions.

--through-bolted the eye-straps for the battery retaining strap to the star-board plate.

--used 5200 to glue a rubberized vinyl backing material ("carpet runner") to the underside of the star-board plate.

Now I have the battery firmly fastened to the star-board plate. The plate is wide enough that there is no possibility of the battery box tipping over. The weight of the battery
pressing the rubber backing down into the cockpit non-skid makes for a pretty stable mounting. The battery will not slide around
back there as the boat heels or rocks.

It is also possible to slide the battery box/mounting plate athwartships to change the trim if necessary.

It is not perfect, but is is a workable solution to the problem.


thunderbay posted 09-08-2000 07:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for thunderbay  Send Email to thunderbay     
Thanks for all the battery answers!

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.