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Author Topic:   Troll Motor for Montauk/Sakonnet
JimU posted 10-04-2000 03:03 PM ET (US)   Profile for JimU   Send Email to JimU  
I plan on mounting a trolling motor on my boat. Withthe typical bow mounted minnkota or motor guide it appears the the bow rain will need to be cut. I don't want to do that. Any recommendations regarding a transom mount mounted on the transom vs fabricating a bracket to mount a transom mount on the bow? Thanks for any info. JimU
lhg posted 10-04-2000 03:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Unless you're planning on trolling for bass and other small fish on inland lakes, I would not recommend an electric motor for a 16/17' Whaler. 6-8HP outboard is more what you need.
JimU posted 10-04-2000 04:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
Ihg--Down here in Louisiana we fish in a lot of inland waterways, delta, and bays. We fish for reds, specks and a variety of saltwater fish in the wetlands. Much of our inland fishing is like bass fishing where an electric trolling motor is essential. Offshore, we tie to oil rigs for snapper or drag bait(troll) for other fish (tarpon, king/spanish mac's, billfish, etc.) using main engine power. I use my boat for both inland waterways and wetlands and for bay and close in Gulf fishing. Therefore I need electric trolling motor. JimU
David Reid posted 10-05-2000 10:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for David Reid  Send Email to David Reid     
From Lafayette, LA, I'm with JimU. You can mount any variety of trolling motors on the bow of your Montauk without removing or cutting the railing. Mine (now somebody else's) 85' had a Great White 12V motor with something like 45lbs of thrust mounted on the starboard gunwale footing that protrudes outside the railing up there by the bow of the boat. Using its own battery located at the rear, that motor could yank that little hull around well even in a stiff wind. Fantastic for following a school of specs around under the birds without spooking them all. More or less center your mount (I recommend you find a removeable mount as it provides some welcome flexibility) along that piece of footing/gunwale. Yes, the motor will extend out from the hull a bit when pulled back for stowing, but not enough to cause a road hazard (caught my noggin on it in passing in the garage more than a few times though!). When stowed, the motor protruded mayde 12" from the hull, the retractable handle maybe another 6". Have seen that same rig on a bunch of Montauks down our way. By the way, you can run your electrical lines up from the battery at the back of the boat through the rub rail as there's about a 1/2" conduit formed inside that black rubber. The rubber is easily removed and replaced. I ran my lines through a hole drilled from behind the battery switch and into the rub-rail backing, then through that conduit in the rub railing up to the bow, then through a second hole through the hull up near the trolling motor. You can position a standard trolling motor plug on the inside of the hull, make sure you caulk the holes well to keep out moisture, and you're in business. Alternatively, a good trolling motor shop can rig you up and make sure the connections and all are ship shape.
JimU posted 10-05-2000 03:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
To David Reid
Thanks for the response and the recommendations. I'm looking at a great white 52 lb motor. I just put a new Barbour rub rail on my boat(actually restored the entire boat, a 1971 model, repowered with new Yam 90)and was thinking of doing just as you suggested with the wiring. I ran my bow light wiring behind the insert in the rail so there is no wiring in the insert at this time. It seems the perfect spot for trolling motor wire. Your post says. . . from Lafayette LA. Me to--professor at ULL (USL). My email is Office phone is 482-6347. Give me a call. Jim.
lhg posted 10-05-2000 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
JimU: Might want to check out that Great White company before you buy. They have recently been in the headlines of the boating Trade magazines regarding massive investor fraud, bankruptcy, law suits, etc. My memory on this is not great, but something is seriously wrong in this operation, or a similarly named company.
Dick E posted 10-05-2000 07:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick E  Send Email to Dick E     
Great White is made by Motorguide.
Motorguide is owned by Brunswick
Brunswick own Mercury Whaler and many other recrational enities.
I serious doubt they will go out of business anytime soon
Dick E
lhg posted 10-05-2000 07:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Guess I was reading about sombody else! Thanks for the info.
KCarlsen posted 10-05-2000 09:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for KCarlsen  Send Email to KCarlsen     
JimU, David, I agree with the need to mount a trolling motor on the bow. A stern mounted trolling motor does little to prevent the bow from getting blown around by the wind when the motor is mounted on the stern. The bow mounted motor pulls the boat from the front and the rest of the boat follows. Here is my problem. My 1969 Sakonnet only has a 4 inch deck on the front which gives me very little, if any room to mount the trolling motor mounting plate, even at an angle. How did you work around this problem?? Also because of the angle of the bow, I can't through bolt the plate. How did you secure it so that the plates stays in place with the extreem stress from bouncing on the water and also when in use? Kurt
JimU posted 10-06-2000 11:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
to Kurt Karlson: I haven't sovled the problem yet. My boat is a 71 model with the same bow design as yours. I'm going to take my boat to the trolling motor shop David Reid recommended since it's right here in my home town. I'm thinking of fabricating an aluminum mounting plate. I haven't decided on using a transom model mounted on the bow or getting typical bow mount model. The problem with the bow mount model is the size of the mounting plate versus the width of the old style gunwale on the 16-17 footer. I'll post my solution as soon as I figure it out. JimU
JimU posted 10-06-2000 11:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
Kurt; sorry I mispelled your name in my last post.
David Reid posted 10-06-2000 12:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Reid  Send Email to David Reid     
My method will only work if you have enough room and wood inside the fiberglass in that portion of the gunwale/footing. The removable mount I used may or may not have been packaged by MotorGuide (can't recall). It had mounting holes in the black anodized aluminum mounting plate for what looked like a variety of trolling motors. The neat thing was that this plate mounted to the boat via a pair of "keys" about 2" in diameter located on the bottom of the plate. All that actually attached to the hull was a pair of circular pads about 5" in diameter with corresponding "key-holes". Without wood in the mounting area or probably about 5-to-6 inches of gunwale to work with, this may not not be the ticket on the older hulls. It should work on all the "smirking" newer 16'6" hulls.
Johnboat posted 10-07-2000 04:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Johnboat  Send Email to Johnboat     
JimU see my reply on the repairs board. But you should just forget about a transom mount. I tried one and it is totally useless. Like the other fellow said, the 12 volt MGGW really moves a Montauk. You can get a steering wand, stand in the front and nose that boat any place you want...while you are casting to likely works great. In Tx or La you NEVER see anyone with a transom mount...forget that.

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