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1971 21ft. Outrage Value & Cost?
|Author||Topic: 1971 21ft. Outrage Value & Cost?|
posted 10-12-2000 11:49 AM ET (US)
Regarding the '71 Outrage. I have access to a '71 in dire need of TLC. I basically grew up on this boat and the owner (original) and I have been friends since childhood. Kids, a classic Cal-36 (also the original owner) and other priorities have taken their toll on the Whaler. Just not enough time for him to put the old vessel back in shape. Basically, it's a refit. New power, rebuild of console (original) and probable re-gelcoat are necessary, not to mention the various items of cost like steering mechanism (hydralic), controls, running lights, etc.etc.
Question: If I, or anyone elsewere, were to take on this project, what would be my cost? Fair value on hull alone?
Assumption: New OMC 175 Oceanrunner, Hydralic steering and components, re-gelcoat, new controls and a general fund for extra fitting ( of which I would do the work, i.e. rebuild teak console, etc.).
I know this is a tough one, but with the broad knowledge base we have here in this forum, I hope we can come up with some ideas!!
posted 10-12-2000 12:29 PM ET (US)
Couple of questions -
Having those questions answered, would make it alot easier to figure out what's ahead of you.
The plus side is that your buying from the origional owner, and know the boat to gauge the amount of maintence done in the past.
Power - I'm real happy with the 200 Yamaha on my 21. Up till this point I've always used Mercs... couldn't pass up the deal on this one.
Console - Can it get rebuilt or is it only usable as a template? There is one site here on the web under OEM sources, Whaler Wood that at least one person has used. Their comment was it took a long time, but was really worth it.
Canvas - On the console, shouldn't be too hard to re-do.
Steering - I was short of funds to be able to put hydralic steering on this year. However, I've had no problems with the morse type steering... no controlability issues.
Controls - Thats your choice with motor.
Running lights - I ended up during the gutting process, ripping out _all_the_wiring... right down to the ground system. Between the circuit breaker panel, weatherproof mount box, wire, connectors, battery switch (I've gone to dual installation) I'd guess around $400 - 500.
The big question here is do you want to maintain it as a strict classic, with a few push pull switches, or upgrade it to more recent electronics and circuit breaker panels?
Re-Gelcoat/paint - Heres the big item, second in cost only to a new engine. I ended up having mine painted. Re-gel would have cost more, as the gel pretty much needs sanding. The prep costs are same between the two. I don't know about cost difference between gel and poly. The afterwards post paint labor is where the difference comes in. Advantage with gel is thicker, so a hull can take some deliberate sand beach grounding, where I avoid beaching at all costs. Having it to do over, I'd still lean towards paint. With a dump truck / extruded side model, the labor costs will even be higher than putting the same amount of gel on a flat sided hull, as all the little curves will have to be hand sanded.
CHECK FOR DRY ROT IN THE TRANSOM!
Let us know more.
Best - Don
posted 10-12-2000 04:20 PM ET (US)
Grunt would have to be my middle name to take on a project like this. The console would primarily be used as a template. I have access to the raw materials (teak) here at wholesale prices. So, I would basically recreate what Whaler did 30 years ago. Yes to gutting the wires and total rewire. Transom is actually in good shape. The boat spent the first twenty years of her life in the water with bottom paint. Brackish water of Lake Ponchartrain is o.k. with a yearly haulout for fresh finish. The hull did not not have a single blister after twenty years in the water. It now sits on a keel roller trailer with bunks. Not a warp anywhere. All of the prep work for the finish would be done by myself. As I see it, the only contracted work would be for the repower with controls and shooting the awlgrip or gelcoat; whichever I would choose. This is not an overnight quickie. I would probably take a year or so to do the work and refit. Afterall, I have an 18ft. Outrage and her one year old captain to keep after. I would like to get her close to original, but within reason. Therefore, I would have to balance cost with value.
posted 10-12-2000 04:47 PM ET (US)
Sounds like you've made up your mind, and I don't blame you. Look on e-bay at outboard motors, there is a real nice 175 HP Mercury with warranty remaining that might help your cause for a lot less than new horse. DragsABurnin'!
posted 10-12-2000 08:10 PM ET (US)
When you state that the transom is in good shape, does that mean that you've drilled and taken a core, unscrewed a motor mount bolt and dug around with a probe, or had it checked with a moisture meter?
One of the problems with cored transomed boats that are that old, is that the bedding compound has dryed out, cracked or just lost its effectiveness. The way the repair site (if any lurkers are reading, it was repaired at one of the top fabrication and repair shops in S.E. Michigan) mounts motors is to oversize the hole by 1/4 - 1/2", fill with resin, let dry overnight, redrill proper size. That way a plug of resin keeps any water from entering the core.
Also check very carefully around the drain plug pipes, and make sure that they have not deteriorated.
Any sort of canvas with it? And what type of seating came with it?
Almost forgot. Tankage.... Did that model just have the quarter tanks, or does it have the internal tank. A replacement tank ran about $140 last year, if my memory is correct. That should be very carefully checked, being close to thirty years old.
Best - Don
posted 10-13-2000 10:29 AM ET (US)
I agree that the bedding compounds are usually suspect over time. I also have a yard that has used a similar method as yours as a solution. The core seems to be sound. Very dry and the drains, suprisingly look good. A few years ago(6-7) I helped put a transducer mount on the transom. All holes were drilled without a trace of water. This was a failed attempt to get things going with the owner/friend, but alas we lost our mast on the Cal-36 the next weekend racing in a squall. Cal won out, whaler went back in mothballs. Canvas is non-existent. Would have to be redone completely. As far as seating, it came with a fiberglass "box" with drains (assuming it could be used as a ice/fish box) with a teak hinged lid. This acted as the seat bottom, was covered with a naugahyde(?) cushion and two aluminum soft bent L brackets that created the bracing for a cross backrest the width of the seat; also covered in white naugahyde. Dimensions were approx. 3'x 1.5' using 2-3 inch foam for the seat, and 3'x .7' same foam for seat backrest. Frankly, I have only seen this arrangement on this Whaler. I know it came this way from the factory. I might even consider a change to a leaning post design if I were to take on this project. Of course, I am assuming my buddy will depart with his dearly beloved. Rest assured, he will have full visitation and use in the event I undertake her restoration.
posted 10-13-2000 10:32 AM ET (US)
Built-in. I completely forgot the capacity. Anyone know the fuel capacity on the built-in tanks for this boat?
posted 10-13-2000 11:36 AM ET (US)
Assuming that the tankage is same as my '73, it's 40 gallons internal, 20 for the optional saddle tanks.
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