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Author Topic:   Transom savers
Dick E posted 01-31-2001 08:17 PM ET (US)   Profile for Dick E   Send Email to Dick E  
Good or Bad? and Why?
Some people think they tranfer all the trailers bouncing to the motor.
Others belive the stress on the transom is tranfered to the trailer.
minh nguyen posted 01-31-2001 08:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for minh nguyen  Send Email to minh nguyen     
I haven't heard of a Boston Whaler transom breaks while towing so I don't believe transom savers are really needed.
I ask the same question to the Outboard Motor
Shop in Alameda,CA (they are Boston Whaler
dealer) they said you don't need it.
I am glad that they said you don't need it,
if they said you need it then
Boston Whaler is really having a problem.
One of my friend has a Ranger Bass boat,
when I looked at the bolts where the motor
is mounted I see the bolt actually compressed
the fibergrass, look at any Whalers you
will not see it is compressed, that means
Whaler transom is very solid.
However if your motor has hydraulic T/T
and but don't have the lifting bracket I think transom savers probably needed
to take the stress out of the hydraulic.
dgp posted 01-31-2001 08:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for dgp  Send Email to dgp     
My Mercury owner's manual recommends the use of them. Don
JimU posted 02-01-2001 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
Use one. It keeps your motor from stressing the mounting bracket, the T&T mechanism and the transom when the motor is tilted in the up position. In an engineering sense a transom saver converts a bending moment into compression and this saves your transom and the other mechanisms.
aggiewhaler posted 02-01-2001 06:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for aggiewhaler  Send Email to aggiewhaler     
Dick E,
I am curious about this issue as well. If you search this board and the wmi boards as I have done extensively, I think you'll find almost a 50-50 split on this issue. And both sides make compelling arguments. Hopefully this thread will produce the be-all end-all answer to this question. I can tell you I asked a mechanic at my local Whaler dealership and he said he'd use the t-saver on long hauls but not short trips, which seems confusing to me; either it's beneficial or not.

I use one because I can't keep my motor in the full down position when I trailer, but who knows. Good luck.

Dan posted 02-01-2001 08:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dan  Send Email to Dan     
Where do you get transom savers and how much do they cost?
sr posted 02-01-2001 08:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for sr  Send Email to sr     
I've exculsively used a transom saver on our 91 mantauk w/ 100 hp merc, trailered all over the mountians, not one srtess crack in transom.
JimU posted 02-08-2001 04:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
Dan, you can get them almost anywhere...West Marine, Academy Sports, Cabelas. Price is Under $30-$50.
paul_boatforum posted 02-09-2001 07:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for paul_boatforum  Send Email to paul_boatforum     
As a follow up, I have a 13' with a 35hp and NO power t/t. Do others use a transom saver on these small engines? I really hate looking in the rearview mirror each time I hit a bump only to see my poor little engine bounce!! Just curious. Thanks!
bigz posted 02-09-2001 09:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Ok here are a few thoughts on why you should use or when you should use a transom saver ---

If the end of your transom isn't within an inch or two at the most of the first keel roller, in other words at least 99.8% of the boat isn't supported on the trailer then it probably is a good idea. You see a lot of boats with the transom/motor way off the end of the trailer this creates a cantilever effect which as you merrily bounce down the road, remember the boat is fixed hard to the trailer, that unsupported tail end with the bouncing motor is exerting tremendous force on the back end of the boat, on larger boats it is the transom that takes a beating --- on say the 11,13 and 15 Whalers not only the transom but the inside along the molded aft deck drain channels can be stressed and this will manifest itself as multi spider stress cracks developing along the drain channel both port and starboard of the drain tube --- caused by the flexing!

Hey for a 30-40 buck item as they say with chicken soup can't hurt --- Just a few cents worth of my thoughts --- Tom

PS: Paul_bf ---- your motor if not tilted up and locked in position (all do have a locked trailer tow up position I believe, or if trailered down you can always just use a ratchet type tie down attached to the trailer and wrapped around your lowed unit to stop any movement --- on most you can let your motor all the way down and then take the tilt pin and insert it so it secures the motor in the down position --- the key though as I mentioned above is have all the boat supported on the trailer --- in some cases it means moving the bow post forward --- if that can't be done you've got to short of a trailer for your boat!

Minh -- you never depend on the hydraulics to keep your motor up trailering --- after you raise it all the way up --- one flips down the locking tabs and then lowers the motor against them --- same if you keep the boat moored/slipped use the locking tabs ---

minh nguyen posted 02-09-2001 12:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for minh nguyen  Send Email to minh nguyen     
Thanks BIGZ,
I always flipped the motor support down
every time.
Bill Davis posted 02-09-2001 09:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bill Davis  Send Email to Bill Davis     
The 2000 Sport 13 comes on a short Whaler supplied trailer that is imcompatible with every transom saver on the market.

The included motor, a Merc 30, has a manual calling for use of a transom saver.

Go figure.


FISHNFF posted 04-07-2001 12:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for FISHNFF  Send Email to FISHNFF     
I'm bringing up an old thread because I am more confused. I see how a bracket would be mandatory on a motor w/o PT/T due to the bouncing. I am all set to install one on my 90 Merc 4-stroke/17 Alert-Montauk/Pacific. Now I see a type which has a load meter/cushion whick is either spring loaded or with a rubber bumper to absorb shock. I seems to me that if the boat and trailer are properly secured with no movement, than a rigid support is best. I don't know the amount of movement with these cushioned brackets, but could this be helpful of harmful? I figure installing one could also help save my steering clutch on the NFB helm.
Regarding tilt motor hydraulics, is it best to store the motor resting down or up slightly. I know logically down seems right but something in my mind says maybe not. My Merc has only one ram for both trim and tilt.
dgp posted 04-07-2001 06:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for dgp  Send Email to dgp     
Mercury recommends the use of a "transom saver" motor bracket. The cushioned versions I've seen will allow about 1/2 inch of compression when properly compressed for transport.
I always store in the down position so all the water will drain out.
BTW, what model was the Pacific?
FISHNFF posted 04-07-2001 01:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for FISHNFF  Send Email to FISHNFF     
My Pacific is a GSN3-17 with a 2' tongue extension(factory exchange), carpeted fender pads, monoleaf springs, vertical roller guide-ons, spare tire and mount, and 2999lb.GVWR upgrade. The longer tongue trailers better and keeps my rear tires away from the water. Excellent solid trailer. Next I will add some rollers (also black poly and SS shafts). There are not many cross members but I figure some are better than none! Oh yeah, non-skid tape on all step surfaces and added appropriate additional reflectors.
Hoop posted 04-07-2001 01:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Hoop  Send Email to Hoop     

I had a cushioned, black painted transom saver on a previous boat. Salt and time gummed it up and the cushion feature became inoperative. I currently have an aluminum transon saver (have had it for about a year now) and I think it'll last longer. Hoop

Hank posted 04-09-2001 12:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for Hank  Send Email to Hank     
Re: Position of hydraulics during storage. Manual for my 90 HP evenrude says store with engine down. Also, when engine is up and locked on supports, (say, in a slip) continue pumping down to withdraw hydraulic pistons down into their cylinders.This put all the load on the locking bars and in the water reduces corrosion problems with the hydraulic pistons.
FISHNFF posted 04-09-2001 03:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for FISHNFF  Send Email to FISHNFF     
Thanks. I have an older black metal one from my 13 Whaler laying around but will get a new aluminum one. My Merc only has one ram to do both tilt and trim. My Yamaha has one tilt and two trim rods which I do the described procedure you mentioned. Thanks.
jasvan10 posted 07-24-2005 12:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for jasvan10  Send Email to jasvan10     

I have just recently bought a 2001 22 dauntless with a 200 murk , i to have a concern about not useing a transom saver for some of the same reasons mentioned in some of the replys ,my reasons why i am going to install one is that whalers even though they are known to be built very well they are still man made and are subject to failer , and for the minmal cost of a transom saver it is insurance money spent wisely. I just dont want to send my boat in for repairs that is ,when i can be fishing.

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