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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Trailer for Outrage 25
|Author||Topic: Trailer for Outrage 25|
posted 02-01-2001 12:16 PM ET (US)
Trying to get a quote for a trailer for my boat, 1980 Outrage 25. Can anyone (lhg?) tell me the weight of this boat? Also, does anyone have knowledge about the quality od american Trailers?
posted 02-01-2001 09:26 PM ET (US)
Book lists #3300 for the Outrage, #3500 for the Outrage Cuddy. A good friend has a #5000lb rated trailer for his 25 with twins.
Never heard good, bad or otherwise about American. I ordered an Eagle, and am happy with it.
posted 03-08-2001 02:37 AM ET (US)
posted 03-08-2001 07:40 AM ET (US)
I think the dry weight of the standard Outrage 25 hull was advertised as 3300 in the 1989 catalog. I assume the weight had not changed from 1980 to 1989. You should add about 900lbs for fuel (140 gallons x ~6.5lbs/gallon) and another 450 to 900lbs for one or two outboards. Thus, your prospective trailer should be selected to support OVER 5000 lbs. Keel roller bunk style trailer is very important. I believe that LHG uses a Continental trailer which is made in Florida. See www.continentaltrailers.com. I think your best result is to call them becaue they didn't respond to my web quote request. See also, www.continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/
posted 03-08-2001 02:25 PM ET (US)
Don: I think your friend's trailer is too light at 5000#. I use a 6000lb rated trailer, with tandem P205 75 R14 radials, and the rig loads it pretty close to the limit with a full tank of gas. (but I only tow VERY short distances with full tank)
Boat w/ full transom & bracket 3500
Figures are approximate, and generous, but I would next time go with tandem 15" wheels, bringing capacity up to 8500#. Cost w/Continental is minimal, something like $250 more.
Larry, I can highly recommend Continental's galvanized V frame, keel roller model, but you will have to drive to FL to pick one up.
Another option is to get an aluminium trailer, and have them add the cross members for the double keel rollers. You will have to go up to a larger length size, because you won't have the railroad tie bunks extending 3 or 4' of the end. Your transom should be at the end of the aluminium frame and rear cross member. Down side on these is that because of the shape of the aluminium beams, most appear to have little room for adjusting wheels for weight balance. You could end up with too much tongue weight. In bunk configuration this is not a problem, but with keel rollers it could be. Check on that if you're going to go with aluminium.
I have been very happy with mine, although I have spent a few dollars upgrading it with a lot of poly rollers, SS shafts, etc. After 11 years, it has no rust spots at all. The galvanizing has held up very well. The entire steel channel sction frame is one-piece welded before galvanizing, and that makes a huge difference. Tubular frame galvanized trailers have to be bolted together, and you get rust where the tubes are cut and holes are drilled, and inside the tubes where you can't see it, all hidden failure opportunities. And the frame is nowhere near as rigid, with more u-bolts to rust. My 25 launches and retrieves as easy as the 18. (and MUCH easier than jimh's 20 Revenge on a bunk float on!!!)
For others interested, some recent ball park prices for a keel roller trailer from Continental are, in standard configuration:
for a Montauk $800
Add extra for SS disc brakes, guide ons, etc.
Like outboard engines, Florida seems to have the best pricing, on ANY KIND of trailer, I've seen in the country. It's evidently a very highly competitive boating market. A Good rule of thumb is buy your boating needs in FL and sell them elsewhere!
posted 03-08-2001 03:18 PM ET (US)
posted 03-09-2001 02:01 AM ET (US)
RE: Float On and off-Jim, What difficulties do you have with the trailer? I'm so impressed with mine,the comment caught my curiosity.
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