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Author Topic:   Folding or a removable trailer tongue
blackdog posted 03-22-2001 01:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for blackdog   Send Email to blackdog  
I have seen trailers that have a folding or removable tongue. This would help me fit my 16 Dauntless into the garage. Any one have any thoughts on this?
My concern would be that if not done properly the trailer would not pull square and cause all sorts of problems with the tires.


reel remarks posted 03-22-2001 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for reel remarks  Send Email to reel remarks     
I had trouble fitting my boat into the garage so I took it to a trailer manufacturer(there are two near me) and they fitted a removable tongue.

It worked out great! No problem now fitting it into the garage and no problem on the highway either.

For awhile I used to worry about someone pulling the pins and stealing it but it never happened. Now that's no longer a concern. I guess I have enough grey hair without worrying more onto my head!

Anyhow, try it, you'll like it.


gregwhaler posted 03-22-2001 02:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for gregwhaler  Send Email to gregwhaler     
Stan - Was the removable tongue done with a section that slides in & out internally or was a sleeve made to fit over it externally? I'm looking to make my own & just wondering how the pros do it.


jjt posted 03-22-2001 02:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for jjt  Send Email to jjt     
Bought a new trailer last season for my 96'
montauk. I wanted to store it in my garage,
without having to cut a hole in the door.
Found a solution...
Bought an EZ-Loader with a swing tounge.
An extra $90 dollar option on top of about a grand. Although I havn't had much use of the boat or the trailer (purchased late in the season) it seems to work great. They also offer a pull out tounge as well, but the swing seemed like it would be easier to use.
All you do is unlock the pin, pull it out, and swing the tounge. Both boat and trailer
fit just fine in my garage.
It was exactly what I needed.

Check out the link below, the pics will show you what both variations look like.

Chesapeake posted 03-22-2001 04:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
JJT: I also bought the trailer with a swingaway tongue for the same reasons. Bought a new house too and the boat fits fine without swinging the tongue. Who'd a thunk it?

Question however, my dealer installed the tongue jack on the tongue. It seemed to me that unlatching the tongue and swinging it (with the weight still on the tongue) wouldn't be all that intelligent. All the weight would be on that single swinging bolt. Just curious if your dealer put the tongue jack on the trailer body, rather than the swinging tongue...

Thanks in advance.


stagalv posted 03-22-2001 04:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
I just had a new aluminum trailer made for my Montauk. The overall length of my garage was 21' so I had to have a tounge made with pins. The coupling end of the tounge is smaller and slides back into the larger piece. Two pins hold this in place and the guy who built it placed a small padlock on one of the pins so it couldn't be stolen. This system works great because I can remove the pins and slide the tounge in all of the way or pull it all of the way out. It cost a bit but it's better than paying $100 a month for a storage shed. Rex
jjt posted 03-22-2001 06:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for jjt  Send Email to jjt     

when I bought the trailer I did not order the tongue jack, I have since installed one.
When I put the boat away in my garage for the winter, I used the tongue jack to raise the trailer, and put a support I made from some 4x4 lumber under the trailer body to support it.

Crank down the jack, and pull the pin. The weight of the boat is all on the keel rollers and the bunks, so the bow roller
and tongue are able to swing free.

Just hope I don't have to ever pull the boat out in a hurry.


triblet posted 03-22-2001 11:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I had a removeable tongue built for my
Montauk trailer. The existing tongue
was cut just forward of the bit that carries
the bow roller and winch. A slightly
smaller "diameter" section of square tubing
about 5' long was fabricated and inserts
inside the two pieces of the old tongue.
It's bolted to the front piece and held to
the trailer piece by pins like hold your
trailer hitch. I had it galvanized.

There are two sets of holes for the pins so I
can extend it about 18" for Pt. Lobos where
the ramp doesn't have enough slope.

It cost about $100 for the fabrication and
about $50 for the galvanizing (BTW, $50 is
the minimum for the galvanizing, and I think
they would have done a half dozen for that
price, so keep an ear out for a buddy who
wants to do the same thing).

Works fine.


reel remarks posted 03-23-2001 09:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for reel remarks  Send Email to reel remarks     
For Gregwhaler - The removable section slides insided the permanent section and is held in place by two pins. Since it slides in about 30 inches, I took an old piece of garden hose and put it around the wiring in the permanent section so that when I install the removable section the wiring doesn't dissappear inside the permanent section. The wiring in the two sections is connected by a regular 4 pronged connector just like the one that connects to the tow vehicle for lights.

Being able to lock the pins seems like a good idea but the guy that modified my trailer didn't make a hole in a pin big enough for a small padlock. I thought I would enlarge the hole in one pin so I could put a small padlock in it. But even though I have some expensive, very hard drill bits, I couldn't drill through the pin. So I just left it alone and continue to use it the way he made it. Works fine.

Chesapeake posted 03-23-2001 12:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
This thread prompted me to e-mail E-Z loader yesterday. They got back to me this morning with an answer.

The tongue jack should be mounted BEHIND the the tongue hinge on a swing-away tongued trailer -- either on the tongue or on the body of the trailer, as far forward as possible.

triblet posted 03-23-2001 06:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I routed the wiring out of the trailer before
the cut for the extension, wrapped it in
spiral wrap for protection, and use four
monster removeable tie wraps (1/2"+ wide) to
hold it to the removeable part. When the
removeable part is removed, I just toss the
wiring in the bow.

reel remarks:
There are lockable pins for trailer hitches
in the West Marine catalog. If your pins
are the same size, you could use those.


reel remarks posted 03-26-2001 10:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for reel remarks  Send Email to reel remarks     
Triblet: Thanks for the info about locking pins at West Marine. I'll get by their shop and check them out sometime this week.
Towboatin posted 10-14-2006 12:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Towboatin  Send Email to Towboatin     
I know that this is an old post that I am reviving but I am looking to make the tongue on my trailer removable so that I can garage it. The problem is that I have installed hydraulic brakes and the line runs up the tongue. So I would also need a way to disconect the brake line. Hydraulic quick diconnects seem like an idea but I would be concerned with them admitting a little air every time I messed with them. Anyone have some ideas?
Jkcam posted 10-15-2006 02:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jkcam  Send Email to Jkcam     
Overtons carries the Fulton Swing away Fas-lock coupler for about $120. Fulton makes alot of trailer parts and accessories and is carried by many marine suppliers.
Chuck Tribolet posted 10-15-2006 09:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
BTW, since this thread opened, JimH posted a picture of my
removeable tongue at


Towboatin posted 10-15-2006 07:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Towboatin  Send Email to Towboatin     
I think that I am going to go with the detachable tongue idea. As it is right now the trailer hinges where the tongue meets the frame so I only need to pull a couple of pins and it drops out. But I still need a way to disconect the brakes. I am thinking of using a hydraulic quick disconnect. But I am unsure as to if that will admit air into the brake lines. Does anyone have any experince with these?
fno posted 10-16-2006 02:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for fno  Send Email to fno     
A quick disconnect will let air in the lines. Not much, but as time and connects accumulate you will have a significant amount of air in the lines to affect brake function. You would be better off with a piece of hose at the tongue joint that allows you to pull out the tongue and set it under the trailer.

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