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Need help wiring lights........
|Author||Topic: Need help wiring lights........|
posted 04-16-2001 10:47 AM ET (US)
About 5 years after purchasing my 1981 Montauk (new) I had a weak moment and sold it to an aquaintance. Shortly thereafter, I had seller's remorse and was able to buy it back and have had it since.
Unfortunately, for reasons unknown, the guy had in the meantime disconnected all the wiring in the console except for the ignition and the tachometer, including removing and discarding the switches, teak panels and teak trim.
I have replaced everything now and re-wired with the exception of the lighting circuit. Here is where I need help.
There are 3 wires coming from the back of the boat, white, green, and black. They are attached to a block on the port gunwale near the transom and appear to run into the hull (I presume to lead to the bow light) and are attached to a connector for the stern light.
posted 04-16-2001 10:53 AM ET (US)
Sorry, just realized I wasn't in the Repairs/Mods section.
Will re-post there if no response here.
posted 04-16-2001 04:01 PM ET (US)
If when you hold all three leads together and both lights go on you are in good shape; just put the switch to the first "on" position and connect the two leads to the two terminals that cause the stern light to go on. There are not too many possible combinations. Then connect the remaining wire to the remaining post and verify that the second "on" position gives you both lights.
If when you hold the three wires together the lights don't go on you need to trace the paths with a voltmeter starting from the battery and working toward the lights in order to find where the circuit drops off.
posted 04-16-2001 05:17 PM ET (US)
Holding all three wires together won't work.
There's no power source. If you can make
that work, let's go into business and sell
power to PG&E.
The three wires will be ground, running lite
Attach black to ground permanently.
On the switch, fused 12V will go to one
If you get it wrong, you blow the fuse,
posted 04-16-2001 07:06 PM ET (US)
What is the difference between the anchor light and the running lights. I thought when the running lights were on the anchor light (white rear light) was on as well. My anchor light has two leads (+ & -). How can I wire them independently (running and anchor) to have an anchor light only, at anchor and light up with the bow running light as well?
posted 04-16-2001 10:27 PM ET (US)
It is hard to find the consistency or sense in Triblet's wiring plan. But let's start with the empirical fact that when I hold together the three wires that come up to the switch (original factory wiring, I believe) both lights come on without violating any laws of physics.
How does that happen? Let's follow the electrons:
Black will not be ground unless the circuit is run backwards, that is, hot to the lights, then on to the switch and then back to the battery. This only makes sense in automotive wiring where you can use the car body as a ground and save on wiring.
posted 04-17-2001 12:49 AM ET (US)
Since he says all three leading into the
hull, it's unlikely that black is the hot
Black will quite happily be ground without
Which is exactly what I suggested.
posted 04-17-2001 12:54 AM ET (US)
This site is great! I too am working out an electrical mess. The only switch on the panel that does work is the master c/breaker and the running lights. So, from there. I have 2 more switches. It looks like one goes to the the windshield wiper and one.....not connected. What about the light on my windshield(22 revenge)or the Qbeam mounted on the console. Shouldn't both(stern light and windshield light)of these lights come on together on one switch? How about the panel lights? Should these come on with the running lights? Or does it matter? I also have my fuel tank gauge tied to a switch. Any comments.....? Where can I get a wiring diagram for what and how it should be done? Thanks guys.
posted 04-17-2001 04:09 AM ET (US)
There is only one three wire grouping for the lighting system and it runs between the stern block and the helm through the tunnel. If one of those leads of the three wire grouping happens to be black, it is still not the ground. There are only two wires each to the battery, the light on the prow and the stern light, not three. Going into the hull at the block is the hot for the front light and its return, which connects the same post as the negative (ground) of the battery.
I recall from when I did this myself that you cannot see the actual wiring count going into the hull until you pull the block off.
The approach I would suggest is loosening the block, so you can see clearly what is attached where, and mapping out the circuit on a piece of paper, if that will help. Compare it to the the connection scheme I lay out above, which will work, and fill in the missing gaps.
posted 04-17-2001 09:18 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the help guys!
Maybe I'm a little dense when it comes to electrical circuits, but I have to admit I'm still a little confused.
I'm going to play around with the circuit tester and see if I can sort it out.
posted 04-17-2001 06:06 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the input. As I no longer have any of the original wiring or switches I now see I need the double contact pull switch to have both anchor light and running lights operate independently.
Wow, electrons sure can be fun when they don't kill yah.
posted 05-19-2001 02:20 PM ET (US)
My lights are now working like I think they should. Turned out to be a little simpler than I initially thought.
The black wire was, of course, ground and this I connected to the ground post of the tachometer. The green wire was for the bow light and was connected to one of the side posts of the off-on-on switch. The hot wire from the fuse block was connected to the other side terminal of the switch. The white wire was for the stern/anchor light and was connected to the end terminal on the switch.
Pulling the switch knob up to the first stop activates the anchor light and pulling up the rest of the way activates the bow/running lights as well.
I also ran a jumper wire from the switch terminal that has the white wire connected to it to the "light" terminal on the tach so that the tach is lighted when the other lights are activated.
What really got me past my original mental stumbling block was a neighbor telling me that even though the terminals on the switch were un-marked, that I should attach the hot wire to either of the side terminals and then I could figure out easily whether the green or the white would be attached to the other two.
Finally, I installed a Cole-Hersee waterproof switch between the hot wire coming to the console from the battery and the fuse block. I just feel better knowing that I can easily cut off all power to the console if I need too.
Thanks for everyone's input!
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